gdb99

If you put anything in there, it will increase the head weight... which will increase your swing weight...

Lighter heads because of the longer shafts... No one said you have B weight heads. I'm not sure if Titleist even have B weight heads. Mizuno has. It was said that it's possible that your particular heads were heavier than normal, and were drilled out to remove weight from the factory. If you had heavier heads in a longer build, the clubs would have extremely heavy static weight, and swing weight would be very high.

https://aspengolfdirect.com/pages/demo-program

B weight heads are lighter weight heads for over-length builds. You would be better served without the criticisms of members here. Everyone tries to help each other in here.

Do you play heavy shafts now? Getting the weight right is the first thing. There is a Mizuno Optimizer thread in the forum here. Back out of this thread, and in the “search” box, type in Optimizer. Guy had the same shafts spit out, but he ended up in 105 gram shafts.

I just looked in the Apple App store. There is a Mizuno PFS + Swing DNA app.

I have seen this before. It’s not an issue. It doesn’t make the club structurally weak in any way. It’s just a place for the OEM to add weight for a different build.

Have you weighed the heads? There should be a 7 gram difference between them. That will be the start of you need to do, or not do, with your 8 and PW heads.

I don’t find that 2* of bounce matters much with a gap wedge. I guess if you have firmer fairways, and since you don’t take much of a divot, 8* would work. Softer conditions, 10* should dig less.

You can’t just sand the ferrules. You need to wipe them down with acetone after sanding to get smooth again. That’s why I buy ferrules that are as close as I can to the hosel size. There are some great videos on YouTube that show club building. That would help you a lot. Do some research. You don’t use a lot of epoxy. It shouldn’t be breaking off, you don’t drill it out after assembly. The only time I’ve have epoxy break off is when buying used clubs, and they used way too much epoxy when assembling. You need very little. Clamps? You need the head in one hand and the shaft in the other… Put them together, tap on the floor to seat the head, wipe excess epoxy off, stand up to dry.

Just build up the bottom of the grip with painters tape, 2” at a time. 2” strip, 4” strip, 6” strip, full strip, until you like the feel.

Hosel brushes are good to have. I also have a dremel tool with different bits to clean out old epoxy. Just a good flat screw driver can remove epoxy when it’s still warm from removing a head is good. I don’t understand #2. The only time I have ever needed a 12” 1/8” drill bill is when a friend of mine bought a used shaft, and there was a ton of epoxy up the tip. Once in the 40 years I have been tinkering with club building. You do not need quick center or shafting beads. Ever. If the shaft isn’t tight enough, use a shim. I use an old Golfworks catalog for mixing epoxy. It’s free. have never used tungsten powder. I have an assortment of brass tip weights, for steel and graphite shafts. Some irons and woods need collard ferrules. Not all. I buy them when I need them. Certain OEM’s drivers, irons, hybrids, need a special ferrule. Most irons I have used don’t need collard ferrules. A graphite shafts puller I have has saved friends and me a lot of money. I have a hydraulic one. This tool can be handy. I have a couple that were given to me: https://www.golfworks.com/44-1-2-heavy-duty-heating-rod-rr-445/p/rr-445/

Crazy story. Stories like makes me happy that I can do my own club work. Hope everything works out for you.

If you put the 4-PW in your 5-GW, you would be soft stepping, not hard stepping. It equates to 1/3 flex change, or so. You probably wouldn’t notice, and would be the preferred option.

Taper tip or parallel tip? You don’t want to be tipping taper tip shafts.