Drivingrangehero

Perfect, I didn’t care for the Tensei CK PO, it felt boardy to me compared to the Copper, or the Riptide CB Blue in TX….. too stiff, I may be OK with 6.0 stiff in the Riptide CB, but not certain, though they are cheap ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Anyone know what shaft is similar profile to the Aldila Xtorsion Copper 60TX? (Other than the Tensei CK Pro Orange…… not a fan They are getting sparse to find on E’bay (I’ve found 1 in Australia 😒)

IMHO the manufacturers did the hollow bodied goo filled irons right when they didn’t jack the lofts, so you had the added bonus of ball speed retention on miss hits, but still were able to maintain a good launch/spin window Titleist T-MB 716/718 PXG Gen2 0311T Mizuno HMB TaylorMade P770 I’m sure there are others, but I know those all had 32-33° 7 irons

Agreed . If you have a traditional lofted iron, it may spin around 7,000 if you have the speed to do so, and 6,000 with a 28.5° lofted 7 iron, if you have the speed to do so, but most people playing those are looking for added distance, so they don’t have that type of speed, so many may sit around 5,000 rpm with a 28.5° 7 iron under optimum conditions, couple that with a fluffed up lie, wet conditions, maybe some grass behind the ball and you are looking at possibly 4,000 rpm or less with a higher launch, it’s a recipe for a flyer.

This makes sense, thanks! I was interested in added static weight, and it’s been great, so far. Amazing how far a few grams on the shaft goes for feel. When I played DG X100’s, my clubs were around D0 and felt plenty heavy, and when I had Modus 105 stiff in my last set, I added lead tape to the head ( I got them to about D3.5 because they felt a bit too light) , but I was trying to hit a consistent swingweight value at the time…… why…….a mix of ignorance and misinformation thinking the same number (D3.5) had some sort of value. I’m not trying to dismiss it completely, but my 5 iron swung different than my 8 iron. Adding static weight and a little fine tuning with the head, really feels dialed. I’m still in the honeymoon phase, but my set up now just feels great in every club. Prior to another lead tape thread, I never considered putting lead tape on the shaft. After trying this little experiment, I much prefer this to just adding it to the head alone.

Correct, if it were to be added to the clubs balancepoint, it would be about 3 inches from the ferrule, I added mine 14.5” from the Butt end of the club…… a few inches below the grip, which didn’t change the swingweight of the club I read both 14” and 15” so I split the difference and just got lucky I suppose, since my club was shafted with grips already, I figured if it changed the swingweight, it would be minimal, and I wasn’t concerned about a swingweight point in either direction, I was concerned more with static weight…… it just happened to work out, plus it was above the first step near the P in N.S PRO on the Modus label I can see where you may have thought I was referring to the clubs balancepoint, but I meant the shafts…… some clubs like the SF i110 have a higher balancepoint, so to keep the same swingweight, you may put the tape at 13” while others with a lower balancepoint like a MMT, you may have to go 16” (I’m not saying that is the actual numbers on those shafts, just spitballing on how shafts balancepoints are different, which I believe what Howard is referring to) but I think Howard might be thinking in terms of a club builder, that would have a loose, ungripped shaft that is cut to length when finding the shaft’s (not the clubs) actual balancepoint, which would give you an exact reference point, rather than a ball park, but I’m sure Howard could answer that in a clear and concise reply. .

The Steelfiber i110 have a different balancepoint than the i95s, but you can add lead tape to the shaft around 14” (rough estimate on the balancepoint) from the butt of the club below the grip, and that will increase your static weight, without increasing, or decreasing swingweight i did a Progressive weight increase recently with a set of Modus 105 at 14.5” from the butt. I added 2g increments starting with my 6iron down to my 50° Ping U wedge. It’s been a game changer. Im in the honeymoon phase right now, and have only done 3 range sessions with this set up, but it’s been great. I did this after reading a thread about lead tape and static weight, and after I hit a used set of SGI Ping Irons with AWT 2.0 shafts, so I felt it would be a better approach than just adding gobs of lead tape to the heads, especially in the short irons.

I tend to launch overly heavy/stiff shaft higher than softer tip shafts because they affect my release by me attempting to get the loading feedback I desire, so I tend to swing out of my shoes causing me to release early….. they don’t balloon, but my launch goes way up (3°) with a higher peak height, but lower spin You mentioned you like the Modus 120x in your wedges, they are much softer than the DG X100, I think it’s been mentioned somewhere before that they are akin to a DG R300 hs/x1, but I’m sure another more knowledgeable person can give a more detailed account of that here. Every one is different and there is no such thing as my swing speed is ____ therefore is should be in a —- flex. I play Modus 105r and my swing speed with a 7i is around 92mph I would gather…… I’m not entirely sure since I have only been on a GC Quad without the dots for a few years, but recently hit some Mizuno Mp-20 7 irons (34°) and Ping i230 7 irons (33°) and my ball speed hovered around 121-123mph

I’d start with finding the right weight range, then look for a profile in that weight range that works best, fine tune with flex. if 130g is too heavy and Modus 105x (112g shaft btw) is too light, seek out some shafts 120g range. Tons to choose from there.

I don’t carry a 3 wood. I have a bonded 14° 3W and a bonded 16.5° 4 wood, at 42”, but the gains in distance over my 5 wood off the tee, are outweighed by the tighter dispersion off the tee, and ability to flush it off the fairway, which is not happening nearly as much with the 3W’s My 5 wood (Tour Edge EXS PRO) is my favorite club to hit in my bag, my 16.5° is the same make and model, but for some reason, I just can’t to seem to flush it of the deck like my 5w. I have contemplated cutting it down another 1/2” and adding another few grams to the head to match my 5w length and weight, since they have the same shaft in both of them. I play my driver at 44.5”, but have been choking up about a 1/2” of late, and getting better results, so I may cut it down to 44”

I play my 18° 5w at 41.5” and my 7w at 41”, I also play my 24° hybrid at standard 4i playing length

Good point! The 3/8” increments seems to work well for tall guys from short iron to long

Honestly I just typed in the numbers and that is what it spit out. https://ping.com/en-us/misc/stash/fitting/iron-color-code-chart

Ping has a static fitting chart which would put you in +1.5” and upright 4° that is a static baseline, but that may not be best for you. I would suggest buying a cheap forged iron head (Maltby has some cheap ones that are great, forged, so you can bend the lie angle more than cast) https://www.golfworks.com/maltby-te-v4-forged-pearl-chrome-iron-heads/p/ma0360/ And I would by a single iron shaft in an iron shaft you like ……… (Worthy of Note Steelfiber i110’s swingweight very light which are great for over length builds) have it put in the forged head at 2” over, then choke down incrementally until you find which playing length is best, all while using the lie angle test that Howard has provided to adjust lie as needed. From there you can dial in the swingweight via Howard’s DIY tune up ….. it applies to all clubs not just Drivers .

The Modus 105 and Modus 120 are very different profiles, so I would say no, you would be better off with with 105/115/125