Recent WRX article on graphite iron shafts. Is it time?

[Lionstar]

[quote name='Pinchaser' timestamp='1393622687' post='8766984']
I'm another "old" 45 yo that is ready to make the move. I've had tendonitis in my shoulder and elbow on and off for the last 2-3 years, mostly caused by my work but golf doesn't help. If it wasn't for the tendonitis I probably wouldn't consider switching to graphite in my irons.

To my mind, if graphite is to replace steel then it has to have the same performance at a cheaper price or better performance at the same price. Otherwise what is the point of changing? Three hundred dollars for a driver shaft that promises an extra 20 yards..... maybe. $250 for a putter that will cut 5 shots off every round.....definately. $1,000 for a set of Recoil Protos that will basically give the same results as steel.... no chance.
[/quote]
Again, I must try to set the record straight. $1000 for a set of Recoil Prototype shafts is not correct,,not even close. I had the Recoil Prototype 110 F4s INSTALLED for $60 each. 8 clubs x $60 = $480. That's less than HALF what you are wrongly assuming and I repeat,,THAT INCLUDES INSTALLATION. Let's get the record straight here. If someone is trying to convince you the shafts cost $1000 then they are either trying to make more than double what they should or you need to find another club maker,,or both.
If $480 is not worth saving your elbows, shoulders and wrists for years to come then go with steel and pay 10 or 20 times more than that on medical bills and prescriptions later,,AFTER you've had to stop playing for 3 to six months. There is price,,,and then there is value.

[BillyZ2]

[quote name='Lionstar' timestamp='1393645896' post='8769372']
[quote name='Pinchaser' timestamp='1393622687' post='8766984']
I'm another "old" 45 yo that is ready to make the move. I've had tendonitis in my shoulder and elbow on and off for the last 2-3 years, mostly caused by my work but golf doesn't help. If it wasn't for the tendonitis I probably wouldn't consider switching to graphite in my irons.

To my mind, if graphite is to replace steel then it has to have the same performance at a cheaper price or better performance at the same price. Otherwise what is the point of changing? Three hundred dollars for a driver shaft that promises an extra 20 yards..... maybe. $250 for a putter that will cut 5 shots off every round.....definately. $1,000 for a set of Recoil Protos that will basically give the same results as steel.... no chance.
[/quote]
Again, I must try to set the record straight. $1000 for a set of Recoil Prototype shafts is not correct,,not even close. I had the Recoil Prototype 110 F4s INSTALLED for $60 each. 8 clubs x $60 = $480. That's less than HALF what you are wrongly assuming and I repeat,,THAT INCLUDES INSTALLATION. Let's get the record straight here. If someone is trying to convince you the shafts cost $1000 then they are either trying to make more than double what they should or you need to find another club maker,,or both.
If $480 is not worth saving your elbows, shoulders and wrists for years to come then go with steel and pay 10 or 20 times more than that on medical bills and prescriptions later,,AFTER you've had to stop playing for 3 to six months. There is price,,,and then there is value.
[/quote]I called Carl's Golfland, just today, to get a price on a shaft replacement for UST Recoil 95's, F3 Flex. They are $45/shaft with a $20 install fee = $65. Pretty close to what you quoted. I don't have a problem spending the money, my question is how much difference does graphite make over SS for pain/injury issues? I have always heard positive things in these regards.

[snookybusby]

I see so many older golfers on our course. Some play steel, but many play graphite. However, given their age, most of them had to play steel for 30+ years. What I have never heard them say, or seen an issue with, was that they had joint issues. Now, that is not to say that many don't suffer from joint issues. But I have played steel shafts all of my life, and can only recall a few times on very cold mornings that I felt a vibration. So I would say that worrying about joint issues for years to come with pending medical bills and prescription costs are not things that most players have to worry about. However, this does sound like great new for those that have already started to have joint issues or from a family history perspective are susceptible to such. Now watch me go out tomorrow and develop a tendonitis! : )

[BillyZ2]

[quote name='snookybusby' timestamp='1393647622' post='8769546']
I see so many older golfers on our course. Some play steel, but many play graphite. However, given their age, most of them had to play steel for 30+ years. What I have never heard them say, or seen an issue with, was that they had joint issues. Now, that is not to say that many don't suffer from joint issues. But I have played steel shafts all of my life, and can only recall a few times on very cold mornings that I felt a vibration. So I would say that worrying about joint issues for years to come with pending medical bills and prescription costs are not things that most players have to worry about. However, this does sound like great new for those that have already started to have joint issues or from a family history perspective are susceptible to such. Now watch me go out tomorrow and develop a tendonitis! : )
[/quote]I did notice in your profile you are 34 years old. I dream about being that young again, but I had my time. I used stiff steel back then. If you take care of yourself now you will be grateful later. The human body is not eternal, and most people have to learn the hard way. I hope you don't. At 59 yo, I have some golfer's elbow, and will probably need rotator cuff surgury this fall. I say this fall because I don't want to give up the summertime here in Michigan to get it done now. If graphites allow me to play with less pain, they are worth it. I hope things work out for you, and for me!

[Pinchaser]

[quote name='Lionstar' timestamp='1393645896' post='8769372']
[quote name='Pinchaser' timestamp='1393622687' post='8766984']
I'm another "old" 45 yo that is ready to make the move. I've had tendonitis in my shoulder and elbow on and off for the last 2-3 years, mostly caused by my work but golf doesn't help. If it wasn't for the tendonitis I probably wouldn't consider switching to graphite in my irons.

To my mind, if graphite is to replace steel then it has to have the same performance at a cheaper price or better performance at the same price. Otherwise what is the point of changing? Three hundred dollars for a driver shaft that promises an extra 20 yards..... maybe. $250 for a putter that will cut 5 shots off every round.....definately. $1,000 for a set of Recoil Protos that will basically give the same results as steel.... no chance.
[/quote]
Again, I must try to set the record straight. $1000 for a set of Recoil Prototype shafts is not correct,,not even close. I had the Recoil Prototype 110 F4s INSTALLED for $60 each. 8 clubs x $60 = $480. That's less than HALF what you are wrongly assuming and I repeat,,THAT INCLUDES INSTALLATION. Let's get the record straight here. If someone is trying to convince you the shafts cost $1000 then they are either trying to make more than double what they should or you need to find another club maker,,or both.
If $480 is not worth saving your elbows, shoulders and wrists for years to come then go with steel and pay 10 or 20 times more than that on medical bills and prescriptions later,,AFTER you've had to stop playing for 3 to six months. There is price,,,and then there is value.
[/quote]

Lionstar, I'm not doubting that you got your shafts at the price you stated. Problem is I'm in Melbourne, Australia. There are only two TSPX dealers in the country, both are interstate and neither of them quote prices on their websites. The price I am quoting is from Pure Forged Golf in the UK, their price is $140 AUD plus shipping costs and installation. For 8 shafts I would be lucky to get any change out of $1,400. I'm happy to admit that I have not put any time into finding the best deal on the protos because I can't justify spending that sort of money when there are other options at a fraction of the cost.

As for injuries, I've spent alot of money and years out of the game with back problems which is why I have been playing NS Pro 950 shafts for the last 5 years. When my tendonitis hadn't cleared after 6 months I bought a set of Steel Fiber i95s ($350 ish) but unfortunately they didn't work with my tempo. A few days ago I got a delivery from Golfworks with some new toys inside. Amongst other things there were two RIP Tour 115 shafts (1 reg, 1 stiff) and a standard Recoil 110 (F4). I also have a Xcaliber Tour X on order, when I find a graphite shaft I like I will be switching.

There has to be a reason for people to change to graphite. Few people though will stop to consider the health benefits that graphite might offer, certainly not the casual player who only plays once a month or so. Serious plays might but for most of them their main concern will be choosing the equipment that puts their ball closest to the hole.

[avguy]

At 50, I am a workout warrior who started golfing much more about 5-6 seasons ago.

Because of great weather in Arizona, I have been hiting balls and ground weekly most of that time. I went from heavier tour wt. TT DGs (127g) to lighter PX 5.0s and DL R300s (115-113g). Two episodes with horrid left (front) elbow pain, and I am ditching steel in the irons for health. I have no doubt that either the [b]Rip Tour 115 or Recoil 110 F4 [/b]shaft will work just as good for my shots.

I would appreciate any quick feedback Pinchaser has on the difference between those two shafts. They are similar in wts. from the steel I got used two over the past 2+ seasons.

I don't want to work with Steelfibers, as you lose 3 SWs just due to balance point variables vs. pure steel shafts.

[Stuart_G]

[quote name='avguy' timestamp='1393670296' post='8770320']
I have no doubt that either the [b]Rip Tour 115 or Recoil 110 F4 [/b]shaft will work just as good for my shots.
[/quote]

Well, the rip irons are extremely stiff - really a full flex higher for most. Pros will use the stiff (instead of x-stiff) and if stiff is your normal flex, you'd generally fit into the regulars. The only real problem with that is that it means is if Regular is your normal flex, they don't offer any flex below reg to go down to.

[born4golf77]

[quote name='gvogel' timestamp='1392480598' post='8673751']
I like a heavier shaft, but with a softer tip - like my Titleist/Nippon 105T's.

When graphite comes up with a shaft like that, I'm in. So far, I have only found heavier graphite (Steelfiber i95 and Recoil 95) to be light but very firm tip, and not to my liking.
[/quote]
Try the aldila vs proto iron shafts and older proforce rv2 iron shafts

[Stuart_G]

[quote name='born4golf77' timestamp='1393677311' post='8770458']
[quote name='gvogel' timestamp='1392480598' post='8673751']
I like a heavier shaft, but with a softer tip - like my Titleist/Nippon 105T's.

When graphite comes up with a shaft like that, I'm in. So far, I have only found heavier graphite (Steelfiber i95 and Recoil 95) to be light but very firm tip, and not to my liking.
[/quote]
Try the aldila vs proto iron shafts and older proforce rv2 iron shafts
[/quote]

While they are very good shafts (I play the vs-proto's myself), the heavier vs-proto's are only 100 gm and the rv2's just below 100. I think he's saying it that the Nippon 105's are too light for him so in that respect they probably wont be a good fit.

[HipCheck]

I'm trying it this year.

Recoils, Steelfibers, and Program or Program Q. I'm giving it a whirl.

I like lightweight steel so it shouldn't be much of transition for me.

[Pinchaser]

[quote name='avguy' timestamp='1393670296' post='8770320']
At 50, I am a workout warrior who started golfing much more about 5-6 seasons ago.

Because of great weather in Arizona, I have been hiting balls and ground weekly most of that time. I went from heavier tour wt. TT DGs (127g) to lighter PX 5.0s and DL R300s (115-113g). Two episodes with horrid left (front) elbow pain, and I am ditching steel in the irons for health. I have no doubt that either the [b]Rip Tour 115 or Recoil 110 F4 [/b]shaft will work just as good for my shots.

I would appreciate any quick feedback Pinchaser has on the difference between those two shafts. They are similar in wts. from the steel I got used two over the past 2+ seasons.

I don't want to work with Steelfibers, as you lose 3 SWs just due to balance point variables vs. pure steel shafts.
[/quote]

Hi Avguy, my tendonitis has flared up after a hard week at work so I've only hit around 20-25 shots with each shaft over two days . Normally I would leave the clubs alone for a week but the flip side of course is it's also a good time to test shafts if you want to know how shock absorbing they are. The 3 shafts are;

1) Recoil F4 (S flex) 6i shaft. MP-62 6 iron head (261.7g) cut to 37.5" w/out a grip, Shaft weight: 111.9 (uncut)~103 (cut) : 47g grip , S/w D2.5
2) RIP 115 (R flex) 7i shaft. Cobra Pro S3 6 iron head (261 g) cut to 37.5" w/o a grip. Shaft weight: 109.3(uncut) ~106.3(cut) : 47g grip , S/w D2
3) RIP 115 (S flex) 6i shaft. Cobra Pro S3 7 iron head (267.3g) cut to 37" w/o a grip. Shaft weight: 113.1(uncut)~107.4(cut) : 47g grip , S/w D1.5

I used weight pads to bring all swing weights up to D3. Static weights were 417g, 421g and 428g respectively.

On first impressions the thing that suprised me about all these was how close they feel to steel, especially the S flex RIP. The graphics on the RIP give it away as graphite but the coating on Recoil makes it look like a steel shaft. It would be interesting to hand it to a few people who don't know what it is and see if they can pick what it is made of. The Recoil and the h/s reg RIP seem close flex wise, the Recoil is a little stiffer but also smoother. I'd call both shafts firm flex rather than stiff or regular. The RIP does seem to have a slight kick (DG ish) and transmits a little more vibration, its not harsh but there is a bit of an edge to it. Some of that could just be the difference between the Cobra and the Mizuno though. I'll change the shafts around next weekend and see.

The s/s stiff RIP in the 7 iron was the first one of the three I hit and I miss hit it badly. It was harsh and it stung like any stiff shaft would but it didn't set my elbow off as much as I'd expect. That was my only miss with the 7, the rest were pretty solid. This shaft is clearly much stiffer than the other two but it is not crazy stiff. I wouldn't play it, it's too much shaft for me but I wasn't swinging out of my shoes and I could feel it loading. On half and three quarter shots though it did feel very harsh and boardy. The Recoil was very good on these shots although the reg RIP wasn't too far behind it. This is important to me, if I'm between clubs l'll always take a club more and back my swing off.

The flight on all three looked good and I had no trouble hitting knock down shots with any of them. The Recoil seemed a little longer but I need to hit more balls to confirm that. Feedback was great. One of the problems I had with the Steel Fibers was that they robbed the Cobras of all their feel, I would often have to look at the clubface to see where I had made contact with the ball.

I'll swap these shafts around, maybe try the S flex RIP in an 8i and experiment with swing weights over the next few weeks. Obviously need to hit these on the course and I also want to try the Xcaliber Tour X before I make any decisions but so far I don't see any reason to not play either of these shafts.

[Stuart_G]

Thanks for the update. Looking forward to hearing how the next round of testing goes.

[Boogs2]

Bought a demo Nike Covert 7 iron with the stock Kuro Kage shaft in stiff flex. I played it everytime I had a shot that I use my 7 iron for. It did not disappoint at all. I was hitting them high, low, and the feel was a bit numb but I cant deny the results. I did not hit one bad shot with it at all. It was very consistent and it has my seriously considering buying a set of the same setup. The weight was 70g and it felt good to not have the club be too heavy at the end of the round, especially since I have not played in weeks and the body is not used to playing a full 18 yet.

[vwgolfer]

Steel is not the future. I have played KBS tours, ctapers, tried the aerotechs, and now have the recoil protos. The recoil is by far the best shaft I have ever used, be it irons or driver or hybrid. IF you play in bad weather or cold weather and you hit steel it feels like you hands are going to fall off, then try the recoils, all of those bad vibrations are gone, plus the recoils are very accurate. Just a ground breaking shaft, if you are a serious about your equipment you are a fool for not trying graphite in your irons. I really think if average golf consumer can educate themselves or have an open mind then steel is dead for the average guy, women should not even come within 20 ft of a steel shaft anymore! LOL. Plus it looks like you can get recoils that are not protos in 125 gram weight. You guys are crazy not to try them. get over steel. it sucks compared to graphite.

[BillyZ2]

[quote name='vwgolfer' timestamp='1393781860' post='8778386']
Steel is not the future. I have played KBS tours, ctapers, tried the aerotechs, and now have the recoil protos. The recoil is by far the best shaft I have ever used, be it irons or driver or hybrid. IF you play in bad weather or cold weather and you hit steel it feels like you hands are going to fall off, then try the recoils, all of those bad vibrations are gone, plus the recoils are very accurate. Just a ground breaking shaft, if you are a serious about your equipment you are a fool for not trying graphite in your irons. I really think if average golf consumer can educate themselves or have an open mind then steel is dead for the average guy, women should not even come within 20 ft of a steel shaft anymore! LOL. Plus it looks like you can get recoils that are not protos in 125 gram weight. You guys are crazy not to try them. get over steel. it sucks compared to graphite.
[/quote]I don't have great experience with shafts, but I am going to try the UST Recoil 95 on a 7 iron to start with. Just want to make sure it is for me. I have a bad shoulder and want to stop the pounding it gets with the steel shaft I have right now. Question to you, or anybody who can answer, what is the difference between the Recoil 95's and the Recoil Prototype 95?
thanks

[matchavez]

[quote name='Tom Gski' timestamp='1393800343' post='8781426']
[quote name='vwgolfer' timestamp='1393781860' post='8778386']
Steel is not the future. I have played KBS tours, ctapers, tried the aerotechs, and now have the recoil protos. The recoil is by far the best shaft I have ever used, be it irons or driver or hybrid. IF you play in bad weather or cold weather and you hit steel it feels like you hands are going to fall off, then try the recoils, all of those bad vibrations are gone, plus the recoils are very accurate. Just a ground breaking shaft, if you are a serious about your equipment you are a fool for not trying graphite in your irons. I really think if average golf consumer can educate themselves or have an open mind then steel is dead for the average guy, women should not even come within 20 ft of a steel shaft anymore! LOL. Plus it looks like you can get recoils that are not protos in 125 gram weight. You guys are crazy not to try them. get over steel. it sucks compared to graphite.
[/quote]I don't have great experience with shafts, but I am going to try the UST Recoil 95 on a 7 iron to start with. Just want to make sure it is for me. I have a bad shoulder and want to stop the pounding it gets with the steel shaft I have right now. Question to you, or anybody who can answer, what is the difference between the Recoil 95's and the Recoil Prototype 95?
thanks
[/quote]

The only documented difference is tip torque, and $75 more per shaft... I opted for the non-proto as a little extra twist would actually benefit me a little.

[BillyZ2]

[quote name='matchavez' timestamp='1393806153' post='8782622']
[quote name='Tom Gski' timestamp='1393800343' post='8781426']
[quote name='vwgolfer' timestamp='1393781860' post='8778386']
Steel is not the future. I have played KBS tours, ctapers, tried the aerotechs, and now have the recoil protos. The recoil is by far the best shaft I have ever used, be it irons or driver or hybrid. IF you play in bad weather or cold weather and you hit steel it feels like you hands are going to fall off, then try the recoils, all of those bad vibrations are gone, plus the recoils are very accurate. Just a ground breaking shaft, if you are a serious about your equipment you are a fool for not trying graphite in your irons. I really think if average golf consumer can educate themselves or have an open mind then steel is dead for the average guy, women should not even come within 20 ft of a steel shaft anymore! LOL. Plus it looks like you can get recoils that are not protos in 125 gram weight. You guys are crazy not to try them. get over steel. it sucks compared to graphite.
[/quote]I don't have great experience with shafts, but I am going to try the UST Recoil 95 on a 7 iron to start with. Just want to make sure it is for me. I have a bad shoulder and want to stop the pounding it gets with the steel shaft I have right now. Question to you, or anybody who can answer, what is the difference between the Recoil 95's and the Recoil Prototype 95?
thanks
[/quote]

The only documented difference is tip torque, and $75 more per shaft... I opted for the non-proto as a little extra twist would actually benefit me a little.
[/quote]That is what I am thinking, after a little research. My Driver SS is 92 mph, 7 iron about 72 mph. I'm thinking the Recoil 95 would work.
thanks

[avguy]

I ordered Recoil 110, F4. Will be soft-stepping x1 these to replace the current shafts in my 4-pw MP-69s. Out goes the TT DL XP300s (dang!). They fit well - Mizuno Optimizer was right. Does anybody recall if that tool ever spits out a graphite shaft recommendation?

I am pretty certain weight and flex should be close. I know that RIP has torque values closer to steel, but my achy left forearm and elbow don't want that part anymore.

If these work well, I'm thinking of replacing the TT DG R300s (127g) in a 2yrs used set of MP-32s with their 125s in Recoil F4, SSx1. Or, could splurge on Matrix Programs HD 130s - choices!

[BillyZ2]

I am going from a stiff SS shaft to UST Recoil 660 F3 flex (reg), is this going to be too much of a change for a typical golfer?

[hobbygolfer]

Pinchaser,

Sorry, if you stated that already, but what's your swingspeed with a 6 iron? I'm about to order the RIP 115, but haven't decided yet, if I want to go with stiff softstepped or regular flex. I currently play TSPX Recoil 125 F4 softstepped.

Regards
Michael

[cdnrockies]

Hmmmm.

Went to the range this afternoon to hit my recently arrived AP2's with graphite shafts. The graphite shafts didn't seem to perform that differently. Spin was up a bit and they felt a little numb compared to my Mizuno's. I will admit that it wasn't my best ball striking day. The other issue is that the AP2's are clearly too upright for me and the grips were not in my comfort zone.

Now my dilemma is do I reset the lies on the AP2's to a degree flat and regrip?...OR pull the shafts and put them in my MP's and regrip???

[Hawkeye77]

[quote name='Lionstar' timestamp='1393645896' post='8769372']
[quote name='Pinchaser' timestamp='1393622687' post='8766984']
I'm another "old" 45 yo that is ready to make the move. I've had tendonitis in my shoulder and elbow on and off for the last 2-3 years, mostly caused by my work but golf doesn't help. If it wasn't for the tendonitis I probably wouldn't consider switching to graphite in my irons.

To my mind, if graphite is to replace steel then it has to have the same performance at a cheaper price or better performance at the same price. Otherwise what is the point of changing? Three hundred dollars for a driver shaft that promises an extra 20 yards..... maybe. $250 for a putter that will cut 5 shots off every round.....definately. $1,000 for a set of Recoil Protos that will basically give the same results as steel.... no chance.
[/quote]
Again, I must try to set the record straight. $1000 for a set of Recoil Prototype shafts is not correct,,not even close. I had the Recoil Prototype 110 F4s INSTALLED for $60 each. 8 clubs x $60 = $480. That's less than HALF what you are wrongly assuming and I repeat,,THAT INCLUDES INSTALLATION. Let's get the record straight here. If someone is trying to convince you the shafts cost $1000 then they are either trying to make more than double what they should or you need to find another club maker,,or both.
If $480 is not worth saving your elbows, shoulders and wrists for years to come then go with steel and pay 10 or 20 times more than that on medical bills and prescriptions later,,AFTER you've had to stop playing for 3 to six months. There is price,,,and then there is value.
[/quote]

Could post a pic of your shafts and share where you can purchase new protos for less than $60?

[Pinchaser]

[quote name='hobbygolfer' timestamp='1393954794' post='8795845']
Pinchaser,

Sorry, if you stated that already, but what's your swingspeed with a 6 iron? I'm about to order the RIP 115, but haven't decided yet, if I want to go with stiff softstepped or regular flex. I currently play TSPX Recoil 125 F4 softstepped.

Regards
Michael
[/quote]

Hi Michael,

About 84-85mph with a smooth tempo. I'd say it is worth ordering a single shaft of each flex and building some demo clubs. I was hitting the soft stepped S flex in a 7 iron quite well but I doubt I could handle it in a 4 iron.

[hobbygolfer]

Pinchaser,

thanks for the answer. My "problem" is simple: I work for a distributor in Germany for clubmaking supplies and Aldila is one of the brands, we deal with. We only order once in a while from the suppliers, since we are getting killed by shipping costs. So I have to make up my mind, what I want to go with. 84-85 is in my ballpark with a middle iron, tempo is not super smooth, but not as violent as it used to be. It's still cold over here and I'm already having that swing speed on a regular basis. I guess, I will just go with the R-flex and order an extra wedge shaft, to have the option to hard step once. That might be the easiest way to be on the safe side.

Regards,
Michael

[Stuart_G]

[quote name='hobbygolfer' timestamp='1394019652' post='8801833']
Pinchaser,

thanks for the answer. My "problem" is simple: I work for a distributor in Germany for clubmaking supplies and Aldila is one of the brands, we deal with. We only order once in a while from the suppliers, since we are getting killed by shipping costs. So I have to make up my mind, what I want to go with. 84-85 is in my ballpark with a middle iron, tempo is not super smooth, but not as violent as it used to be. It's still cold over here and I'm already having that swing speed on a regular basis. I guess, I will just go with the R-flex and order an extra wedge shaft, to have the option to hard step once. That might be the easiest way to be on the safe side.

Regards,
Michael
[/quote]

I would agree that going with the regular would be your best bet. My 6i SS is ~90, the recoil F4 seems to work well for me and the rip 90 stiff was _way_ too stiff for me. Haven't had the chance to try a regular yet but will soon.

[hobbygolfer]

Hi Stuart,

thanks for your input. Do you have an idea, what the frequency is in a RIP 90 stiff #6 iron?

Regards,
Michael

[Stuart_G]

[quote name='hobbygolfer' timestamp='1394023286' post='8801967']
Hi Stuart,

thanks for your input. Do you have an idea, what the frequency is in a RIP 90 stiff #6 iron?

Regards,
Michael
[/quote]

Sorry, No. I'm not set-up to do it (really don't have any use for those values) nor have I seen any numbers from others. It is a pretty recent new release so I can't say I'm surprised. I'd be more interested in seeing the full bend profile numbers from Tom's software but I doubt he's had the chance to test them yet.

[hobbygolfer]

Hi Stuart,

complete bendprofile would be nice, that's for sure. I just wanted to know, if there are already numbers out there that I didn't find during my research. I would have loved to try the RIP 115 while we were at the PGA show in Orlando, but sadly, the weather was too bad and they had a thunderstorm warning in effect, when we were trying to get our hands on the new stuff, so I wasn't allowed to hit at the range at that time. Would make my life a lot easier . But thanks again for your help.

I guess, we will order this week from Aldila. As soon as I start building my set, I will report frequencies, if anybody is interested.

Regards,
Michael

[Stuart_G]

[quote name='hobbygolfer' timestamp='1394026134' post='8802209']
I guess, we will order this week from Aldila. As soon as I start building my set, I will report frequencies, if anybody is interested.
[/quote]

Thanks. That would be great.

[Pinchaser]

I have a cheap frequency analyser that is basically a toy. I only use it to identify strong and weak planes on shafts. It will give a consistent reading on the same shaft from day to day but it has never been calibrated against a professional unit. I think the numbers between each shaft is ok, that is, if shaft A=300 cpm and shaft B=310cpm, I believe the difference of 10 is accurate. I just have no way of knowing if shaft A is really 300cpm to start with. I have measured a few other steel shafts that I have to provide a comparison. All the shafts are .355 tips in 6 irons except for the soft stepped S flex RIP which is in a 7 iron. All measured with a 5" clamp, same lenght & swing weight and no grip, .

Again, remember the starting values are probably inaccurate!

[b]STEEL[/b]
DG S300....................317
DG XP S300...............311
Project X 5.0...............311

[b]GRAPHITE[/b]
Recoil 110 F4.............316
RIP 115 R (hsx1)........307
RIP 115 S (ssx1).........322

I didn't look for strong/weak planes when I assembled the graphite shafts, just put them straight in the heads with the manufactures' logo at 12 o'clock. Five of the shafts gave a consistent reading, just +/-1cpm. The R flex RIP mostly came out at 307 but I had reading from 305 to 310.

The Recoil is a bit of a surprise, it felt a little firmer and smoother than the R flex Rip but there seemed to be a big jump up in stiffness to the S flex RIP.