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Picked these up Locally. Not worth much but cool nonetheless. 2 through 9 and 1 Through 4 woods with Headcovers and Bag. Would like to find a Matching PW and SW to round it out, but they seem hard to find. All kinds of other Sam Snead, but can't find this Champ.

 

Subsonic-

 

These are Wilson's top sporting goods store line clubs, with Sam Snead.

 

2-9 was the matched set then, so the PW and SW were considered utility clubs, and most likely not included.

 

Good Luck.

 

The Haig Ultras are from 1977, and are an exceptional year.

 

The Haig Ultra Sand Iron from this year is another sleeper collectible, nearly on the levels as the Dynapower series.

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Picked these up Locally. Not worth much but cool nonetheless. 2 through 9 and 1 Through 4 woods with Headcovers and Bag. Would like to find a Matching PW and SW to round it out, but they seem hard to find. All kinds of other Sam Snead, but can't find this Champ.

 

Subsonic-

 

These are Wilson's top sporting goods store line clubs, with Sam Snead.

 

2-9 was the matched set then, so the PW and SW were considered utility clubs, and most likely not included.

 

Good Luck.

 

The Haig Ultras are from 1977, and are an exceptional year.

 

The Haig Ultra Sand Iron from this year is another sleeper collectible, nearly on the levels as the Dynapower series.

 

Thanks for the Info. I thought the Champs were the mid level club and the Sam Snead Signature were the top line, and teh Blue Ridge the bottom line.

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Picked these up Locally. Not worth much but cool nonetheless. 2 through 9 and 1 Through 4 woods with Headcovers and Bag. Would like to find a Matching PW and SW to round it out, but they seem hard to find. All kinds of other Sam Snead, but can't find this Champ.

 

Subsonic-

 

These are Wilson's top sporting goods store line clubs, with Sam Snead.

 

2-9 was the matched set then, so the PW and SW were considered utility clubs, and most likely not included.

 

Good Luck.

 

The Haig Ultras are from 1977, and are an exceptional year.

 

The Haig Ultra Sand Iron from this year is another sleeper collectible, nearly on the levels as the Dynapower series.

you are right-i have it and its exceptional

73 hogan apex

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Picked these up Locally. Not worth much but cool nonetheless. 2 through 9 and 1 Through 4 woods with Headcovers and Bag. Would like to find a Matching PW and SW to round it out, but they seem hard to find. All kinds of other Sam Snead, but can't find this Champ.

 

Subsonic-

 

These are Wilson's top sporting goods store line clubs, with Sam Snead.

 

2-9 was the matched set then, so the PW and SW were considered utility clubs, and most likely not included.

 

Good Luck.

 

The Haig Ultras are from 1977, and are an exceptional year.

 

The Haig Ultra Sand Iron from this year is another sleeper collectible, nearly on the levels as the Dynapower series.

you are right-i have it and its exceptional

 

 

Those Haig Ultra Sand Irons with the Fluid Feel drill thru hosels became collectibles after the W/S Dynapower series was discontinued in 1975.

Does anyone have a Walter Hagen Haig Ultra Sand Iron from the 1950s? If so, could they share any photos?

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I believe I have a 50s Haig SW - some place!

 

Seem to recall that they had a wider flange than the Wilson DynaPower SW.

 

Another 50s SW of note was the 56-57 Wilsons. Nearly identical to the 58-59-60, but with a slightly different back and, of course, stamping.When I finally wore out my 58 DynaPower, I played a 57 for years.

 

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So I picked up a nicked & dented Scotty for cheap. It's a Select Newport 2. What's the best way to remove the nicks, how can I strip the black finish and refinish the putter? The putting face is in great condition. Looking forward to the replies and guidance as I have seen many clubs restored on this thread.

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Found these to Persimmons while wandering an antique store, I trying to get an idea what the unmarked 1 is. Looks like a Mac and in good shape, I cant find any trace markings on the sole plate, just Oil Hardened on the toe. shaft band is also wore off. The Spalding feels great in the hands, never see a loty about Spalding Persimmons. They will make nice adds to my slowly expanding collection whatever they are.

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HH, always helpful to post up some pics. Helps with assessing the situation. But you already know that. Start by asking to what condition do wish to restore? What finish is on there that needs stripping? What is the end result that you're after?

 

WTS, you may be aware of this sub-forum, maybe not. Where the putter guys post about mods and refurbs. Lots of info to sift through and perhaps give you some insight.

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...utter-artisans/

 

And a short one about refurbing a SC. I'm sure there are many more, this one was found on the quick.

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...refurb-project/

 

Carbon steel is easier to work on than SS. Magnet will tell what you have. Judicious filing, sanding and Dremel work can get rid of a lot of nicks and dings if performed with a deft touch. Removing the finish, all depends what is on there to begin with. How aggressive does the procedure need to be (i.e. chemicals). Plus, there are companies around that specialize in finish removal and/or full restoration if you do not want to DIY.

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs

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I'm no SC or full restoration expert, so do not want to out kick my coverage here. But I would start by determining what type of metal you're dealing with. As I mentioned above, a magnet will stick to carbon steel, not to SS. CS seems to be more malleable from my limited experience. Have a Maxfli TM-2 (CS) that was pretty dinged up, especially on the top line. Using a ball pean hammer, starting tapping away on it, carefully. Was generally pleased with how many of them were removed or minimized.

 

Then begin lightly sanding and Dremel work to remove the remainder. Or to a satisfactory condition. SS, being harder, makes all of this much more difficult. At least for my novice skills. I've pounded and sanded on CS heads with good results overall. Just important to go slow and pay attention to what's happening. Good that the face looks to be in great condition and not needing any refurbing.

 

Not knowledgeable enough on SC finishes to recognize what's on this one. Perhaps some research will determine that for you. Once known, then you'll have an understanding on what would be necessary to remove it to a "raw" condition if that is your intent. Needless to say, I'd remove the weights and the back "thingy's" (can't remember what the Scotty guys call them) before proceeding to far.

 

Nice putter. Like these older SC's much better than any of the newer ones. Like to run into a Circa 62 someday. Did you thrift it?

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs

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It isn't often I get excited but I spotted and bought a short set of M75W s , 2/3/4 from the early 1950s. The stampings look crisp and the sole plates are un-refinished, under a flaking layer of poly the inserts and screws look minty.

There's always a downside, instead of a black finish they have a flakey walnut one. We shall have to see. I have a later remake driver that I know I can hit.

I picked up a set of early 693s this year so vintagewize 2016's been good to me.

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Thanks to my friend TStephen for tipping me off on this ! Custom made Wilson Staff tour blades made by Robert Mendralla for Bernhard Langer around 1985. I got a very decent deal on them too. I played the retail version in HS.

 

Freddie-

 

The Block numbered Wilson Staff Tour Blades!

 

Wasn't '85 the year Langer won his 1st Masters?

 

And just what shaft is in them?....

 

Note the clean exactness of the leading edge to the scoring lines in ALL of the irons....

 

This is a "Shark among minnows" set- one of the best forged iron sets from the mid-80s I have ever seen.

 

Congratulations Freddie!

 

PS. Robert Mendralla left this world in July of this year...RIP

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As I mentioned above, a magnet will stick to carbon steel, not to SS.

 

 

 

 

 

I've seen that comment here before, and it simply isn't correct.

 

I've got a Craftsman magnetic protractor that will stick to anything made of steel, carbon or stainless.

 

Stainless steel contains iron, so a magnet is going to stick to it.

 

If you've had a putter or club that you thought was stainless because a magnet didn't stick to it, perhaps it was in reality aluminum or zinc.

"You think we play the same stuff you do?"

                                             --Rory McIlroy 

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As I mentioned above, a magnet will stick to carbon steel, not to SS.

 

 

 

 

 

I've seen that comment here before, and it simply isn't correct.

 

I've got a Craftsman magnetic protractor that will stick to anything made of steel, carbon or stainless.

 

Stainless steel contains iron, so a magnet is going to stick to it.

 

If you've had a putter or club that you thought was stainless because a magnet didn't stick to it, perhaps it was in reality aluminum or zinc.

 

I have several putters that are most assuredly SS that do not hold a magnet. Two SE Tour Platinums and a Spaulding TPM 9. WTS, I stand corrected. Perhaps it may have been better to say......maybe. But if one does not hold a magnet, it's not CS.

 

Furthermore, the original intent was for attempting to determine which type of steel was used in the construct of the putter in question. As a means to assist in a path forward with refurbishment methods. With CS being softer and more malleable, in general, than SS. Thus easier to affect a process to remove dings and dents.

 

FWIW:

 

"Magnets generally do stick to stainless steel, though exceptions to the rule can be found. Steel is composed mostly of iron, which is often naturally magnetic and can easily be magnetized. Magnetic stainless steel is usually ferritic, with a high iron content and molecular structure that supports a magnetic field.

 

Some stainless steel, however, is classed as austenitic. These alloys have a distinct molecular structure that interferes with the parallel lines of force needed for a strong magnetic field. Austenitic stainless steel is commonly used for industrial, chemical and food-handling applications. Ferritic stainless steel is common in home appliances such as refrigerators."

Laissez les bons temps rouler!

OGA - Mitglied Nummer Sechs

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As I mentioned above, a magnet will stick to carbon steel, not to SS.

 

 

 

 

 

I've seen that comment here before, and it simply isn't correct.

 

I've got a Craftsman magnetic protractor that will stick to anything made of steel, carbon or stainless.

 

Stainless steel contains iron, so a magnet is going to stick to it.

 

If you've had a putter or club that you thought was stainless because a magnet didn't stick to it, perhaps it was in reality aluminum or zinc.

 

I have several putters that are most assuredly SS that do not hold a magnet. Two SE Tour Platinums and a Spaulding TPM 9. WTS, I stand corrected. Perhaps it may have been better to say......maybe. But if one does not hold a magnet, it's not CS.

 

Furthermore, the original intent was for attempting to determine which type of steel was used in the construct of the putter in question. As a means to assist in a path forward with refurbishment methods. With CS being softer and more malleable, in general, than SS. Thus easier to affect a process to remove dings and dents.

 

FWIW:

 

"Magnets generally do stick to stainless steel, though exceptions to the rule can be found. Steel is composed mostly of iron, which is often naturally magnetic and can easily be magnetized. Magnetic stainless steel is usually ferritic, with a high iron content and molecular structure that supports a magnetic field.

 

Some stainless steel, however, is classed as austenitic. These alloys have a distinct molecular structure that interferes with the parallel lines of force needed for a strong magnetic field. Austenitic stainless steel is commonly used for industrial, chemical and food-handling applications. Ferritic stainless steel is common in home appliances such as refrigerators."

Kinda like Supermans undies, huh??
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Thanks to my friend TStephen for tipping me off on this ! Custom made Wilson Staff tour blades made by Robert Mendralla for Bernhard Langer around 1985. I got a very decent deal on them too. I played the retail version in HS.

 

Those look stunning, Freddie! Do you still have the retail versions to compare what was done for Langer?

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Rex, the clubs came in this morning. Mint condition: I weighed the 6 iron, D2 sw. Very old school staff look at address, amazing looking clubs.the grind is definitely totally different . I had to hit a shot with one so I went up to my course and hit a soft feel srixon with the 6 iron. Bang on the button ;hit a solid high straight 155 yd shot. Will post pics later sometime

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Rex, the clubs came in this morning. Mint condition: I weighed the 6 iron, D2 sw. Very old school staff look at address, amazing looking clubs.the grind is definitely totally different . I had to hit a shot with one so I went up to my course and hit a soft feel srixon with the 6 iron. Bang on the button ;hit a solid high straight 155 yd shot. Will post pics later sometime

 

Freddie-

 

Am not surprised one bit. After all, they are a Custom Grind for a Masters Champion.

 

Robert Mendralla, the gentleman who performed this work did it for almost 60 years. He left this world in July of this year-RIP

 

In a way, you just acquired one of Wilson Staffs best ever iron sets.

 

Outstanding!

 

All you need is a letter from Bernhard Langer describing this set.

 

Knowing you, that's a foregone conclusion.

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