Shafts for G15

[ManBearPig98]

I just picked up some G15 heads and had planned on putting a set of DG S300 shafts in them. The shafts are .355 taper, but they fit fairly loose in the heads. Is there something I can do about that, or do I need different shafts?

 

Thanks,

Chris

[Nessism]

The following is a repost from (several) threads now in the archives...

[color=#282828][size=3]The following was posted in another thread about [color=red][size=4][background=yellow]reshafting[/background][/size][/color] [color=red][size=4][background=yellow]Ping[/background][/size][/color]'s. Hopefully this will help. If you are [color=red][size=4][background=yellow]reshafting[/background][/size][/color] [color=red][size=4][background=yellow]Ping[/background][/size][/color]s that use ferrules, like i20's, then you should use collared ferrules, which help center the shaft.


[color=red][background=yellow]Reshafting[/background][/color] ferrule-less [color=red][size=4][background=yellow]Ping[/background][/size][/color]'s requires special care. The hosel is designed for a lot of clearance around the shaft to provide a cushion of epoxy so to speak, except for the last 1/4" or so at the very bottom of the bore, which necks down and forms an interference fit to the shaft and keeps the shaft centered while the glue dries. Creaking noise can occur from the joint if you don't get a proper bond.

[b]Pulling shafts:[/b]
Clamp up shaft with sturdy shaft clamp in your bench vice. Use a full size propane torch blowing directly on the hosel for about 15 - 20 seconds. Then grap the head with your hand and twist the head off.

Right after you get the head off and while the epoxy is still hot, use a scra[color=red][size=4][background=yellow]ping[/background][/size][/color] tool to dig all the old epoxy out of the hosel bore. Pay particular attention at the very bottom of the bore. You need to remove 100% of the old epoxy otherwise the new shaft won't seat down into the bottom of the hosel bore when you reshaft.

[b]Prep shaft and hosel bore:[/b]
Use sandpaper to fully abrade the shaft tip, and double check the hosel bore to make sure all the old epoxy is removed. Don't abrade the shaft up too high or the marks will show above the top of the hosel since no ferrules are used. Buying shaft "pulls" is a bad idea for G-series reshafts because the abraded area is typically too high unless the shafts came out of G's in the first place.

[b]Gluing up heads:[/b]
I use 3M DP460 epoxy because it's the strongest available - over 4500psi lap shear strength. Don't think this epoxy is strictly necessary, but I'd use high quality shafting epoxy, not hardware store epoxy.

Optional step: cut some 1/2" strips of fiberglass drywall tape and place two full wraps around the shaft tip, starting 1/4" up from the tip. This assures the shaft stays centered in the hosel bore. Like mentioned earlier, there is a lot of clearance between the shaft and the hosel wall, and there is plenty of room for this tape.

Slather a good bit of epoxy on both the shaft tip and inside the hosel bore. Insert shaft then invert club, with one hand on the head and the other on the shaft. Pick up club and slam shaft butt end down onto a firm floor (concrete or a piece of metal over a wood floor). The idea is to drive the shaft into the bottom of the hosel bore. Do this a couple times until you are positive the shaft is bottomed out in the hosel. This should center the shaft in the hosel bore too.

[b]Clean up epoxy:[/b]
Make sure the shaft is not tilting in the hosel bore, then while the epoxy is wet dress up the exposed area at the top of the hosel to clean up the appearance. This is sort of tricky. You can leave a little extra epoxy here and dress it up with an xacto knife after drying too.

Good luck and hope this helps.[/size][/color]

[ManBearPig98]

I guess that is the nice way of saying search is my friend. lol

Thanks, that helps out a bunch. I will take a torch to the heads tomorrow and make sure all the epoxy is out.

Chris