Blade users thread (NO DEBATING CLUBHEADS! NO Buy Sell Trade!)

[Nard_S]

10 hours ago, Kingcat990 said:

Golf is too easy, we needed a challenging variable in there to thin the herd. That equipment aspect keeps a bad golfer down. That golfer will be buying and trading in a lot of golf clubs. They are necessary to us 😁

haha, i guess i ought to STFU, i'm a bit of a luddite. I'm surprised at how good late gen gear can be, i mean i can go buy irons that go another 20 yards with same length of club or have hot faced metals bopping the ball. But if your an MB guy, what is sold & built to masses is different and when you round out the bag, how that's done needs heavier consideration. I'm a bit shocked at how tour pro's do it, there's guys bagging #7W. There was a time where that was reserved for senior league crowd. There's tour guys that needed two years to take full advantage of tech & max out driver speed. So as an enthusiast/weekend player, how much bag specialization can i even handle? So i simplify where i can, there's already too many variables in the game.

[Bigmean]

On 7/2/2025 at 7:23 AM, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

I think I am approaching that mythical WRXer who claims to be a scratch with his irons, but a hacker with his putter...

 

OK, so while I don't claim to be scratch with my irons, they are definitely the best part of my game this year, closely followed by driver/woods & hybrids.

 

But my wedges--including bunkers-- and putting are horrendous. Last year, it was sort of the other way round. I was fighting an early release in my long game, but managed to pull off some pretty good escapes with the wedges.

 

This year, I've forgotten how to hit a wedge, can't get out of a bunker anymore, and have the yips with my putting.

 

How bad is it? Two rounds ago, I missed 3 putts from within 18 inches.

 

In the last round, I had three holes where I took 5 shots to get up and down from within 10 yards of the green.

 

The worst was a par 3 where I just missed the green with my tee shot and was on the fringe within 30ft from the hole. Duffed the first chip, putted from the fringe to 8ft, then 3-putted from there.

 

To be honest, my driving needs to be a bit sharper, but the inequalities in my game right now are risible.

 

Yep, that's right. I went with "risible" over "laughable".

 

Pretentious? Moi?

 

Substitute driver with putter and I feel this in my core.    Nothing is worse than one’s aspect of your game being double digit handicap numbers worse than the other parts.   As you know, I have taken years off over it…..

 

One thing I learned in my journey with driver is that I probably hurt myself by standing on the tee box, trying to believe in my heart I was going to hit the shot in my head and doing that to the point I knew I was lying to myself.

 

Im sure I have said this before here, but this really changed my putting.   Spend 3 weeks going 2-3 times a week to a practice green for an hour or so.   Every time you go bring 2 balls only, random drop them 5-40ft.   Week 1, goal is only hit each out hole high, that’s the goal, over and over.   Forget making anything just have it stop at the hole.   Week 2, all you are doing is starting the ball on the line you see in your head, while still having ball stop hole high, again making putts is irrelevant.    Week 3, play the 2 balls against each other in a match play style format, I usually do 36 holes of this and it’s my routine putting practice.   Don’t think about line or speed, you are just trying to make everything.   After that, if you can leave those 3 weeks feeling better about putting, the final key is putting is an attitude, and all you need is a little foundation of results from practice confidence to build that attitude on.   

 

My putting has been bad this year, but is coming around.  I have missed a buttload on the edge, some is me pulling the ball some and majority is just lines that are just not going where they should be to allow the most variance in green and mishit to still drop.   Knowing that has helped bring it around and keep the I can make anything attitude going as frustrating as it has been burning edges all day.   

[Bigmean]

Well, I lost the PRGR auction, which I thought was in the bag as I was the only watcher but $70 was a bit too good to be true for the set.  

Moving along, should I just get the stensons?  I have always wanted them, they appear to have a square toe that I love, endo s20 forged should feel soft and hollow like my endo onoffs and Prgr I didn’t win, which I like in a cb to contrast blades.   
 

Has anyone here hit the legacy black stenson irons?   Not that it matters, I won’t play them much and I am probably doing this to give me something to do in the garage…

Edited July 3 by Bigmean

[NRJyzr]

1 hour ago, Nard_S said:

I'm a bit shocked at how tour pro's do it, there's guys bagging #7W

 

Loft creep isn't only for irons.  Modern 7w is a 4w about 30-40 years ago.  😐

 

[Bigmean]

2 hours ago, NRJyzr said:

 

Loft creep isn't only for irons.  Modern 7w is a 4w about 30-40 years ago.  😐

 

Really?   And hear I am thinking of the old callaway heavenwoods and thinking all these dudes are hitting 29* fairway woods lolololol……

[Mitchell]

17 hours ago, Bigmean said:

Well, I lost the PRGR auction, which I thought was in the bag as I was the only watcher but $70 was a bit too good to be true for the set.  

Moving along, should I just get the stensons?  I have always wanted them, they appear to have a square toe that I love, endo s20 forged should feel soft and hollow like my endo onoffs and Prgr I didn’t win, which I like in a cb to contrast blades.   
 

Has anyone here hit the legacy black stenson irons?   Not that it matters, I won’t play them much and I am probably doing this to give me something to do in the garage…

Very solid set of irons that play very long for their loft, played for a good while- the sole grind/beveled-relieved leading edge is really good and the groove pattern tends to eliminate flyers. Good choice!

Edited July 4 by Mitchell

[jimb]

Many years ago, my first experience with golf clubs were blades.  Overtime, I moved to what are now called "players cavity back irons."  I have owned dozens of sets of irons.  Currently gaming the T150, which are fabulous irons by the way.  My last set of blades were Mizuno TP-9 in the 2-PW.  I loved them.  So, I got the itch to see if there was some magic in a blade that I was missing in my cavity backs.

 

I picked up a used Titleist 620 mb 9 iron on eBay and re-shafted it from a pull-out I had lying around and took it to the range at my club.  Right away, I got that feeling from long ago, and it was wonderful.  As nice as the T150 9 iron felt, the mb felt better.  It was a firm feeling, not harsh, in the T150 and soft in the mb.  What was shocking was I did not lose much distance.

 

Now, I go to the range at my club at least 4 days a week for an hour and half for each session.  Most of my time is spent on my iron game, so I can make solid contact.  I think I am going to pick up the 7, 8, and PW in the 620 mb.  There is nothing like the feel of a pure blade at impact and the ball flight and distance I get from a blade is very consistent.  Clearly, this type of iron isn't for everyone, but they are nothing to be feared for a decent ball striker.  

Edited July 4 by jimb

[TheBiles]

What’s a nice somewhat modern (last 10 years at least) set of blades that I can pick up second hand in good condition for a reasonable price? I have a set of 690.MBs that are nice, but the shafts are not for me. Looking for something a little more recent. 

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

16 hours ago, Bigmean said:

Substitute driver with putter and I feel this in my core.    Nothing is worse than one’s aspect of your game being double digit handicap numbers worse than the other parts.   As you know, I have taken years off over it…..

 

One thing I learned in my journey with driver is that I probably hurt myself by standing on the tee box, trying to believe in my heart I was going to hit the shot in my head and doing that to the point I knew I was lying to myself.

 

Im sure I have said this before here, but this really changed my putting.   Spend 3 weeks going 2-3 times a week to a practice green for an hour or so.   Every time you go bring 2 balls only, random drop them 5-40ft.   Week 1, goal is only hit each out hole high, that’s the goal, over and over.   Forget making anything just have it stop at the hole.   Week 2, all you are doing is starting the ball on the line you see in your head, while still having ball stop hole high, again making putts is irrelevant.    Week 3, play the 2 balls against each other in a match play style format, I usually do 36 holes of this and it’s my routine putting practice.   Don’t think about line or speed, you are just trying to make everything.   After that, if you can leave those 3 weeks feeling better about putting, the final key is putting is an attitude, and all you need is a little foundation of results from practice confidence to build that attitude on.   

 

My putting has been bad this year, but is coming around.  I have missed a buttload on the edge, some is me pulling the ball some and majority is just lines that are just not going where they should be to allow the most variance in green and mishit to still drop.   Knowing that has helped bring it around and keep the I can make anything attitude going as frustrating as it has been burning edges all day.   

 

I can't get out to practise on a putting green as often as I'd like, but I am putting some time in there. I have a few games I play as I practise to keep from getting bored, and one is the same as your drop 2 balls randomly and putt drill (I drop 3 balls instead of 2).

 

I like the idea of focussing on the weight only for a bit. I definitely need to improve that part of my putting, especially long putts.

 

With all the putting practice I've been doing, I noticed something a little odd about my putting. I am much better at judging the weight on long downhill putts than uphill putts, and also better making adjustments on downhill putts. 

 

For example, if I'm hitting three balls from the same spot, and my first putt goes a bit long, I can usually hit the next one pin-high if it's downhill, but if it's uphill I'll usually end up short. Then hit the third long again.

[SnowbirdTom]

3 hours ago, TheBiles said:

What’s a nice somewhat modern (last 10 years at least) set of blades that I can pick up second hand in good condition for a reasonable price? I have a set of 690.MBs that are nice, but the shafts are not for me. Looking for something a little more recent. 

 

What's your definition of reasonable?  And what shafts are for you? Ever consider different shafts in the 690s?

[SnowbirdTom]

15 hours ago, Bigmean said:

Really?   And hear I am thinking of the old callaway heavenwoods and thinking all these dudes are hitting 29* fairway woods lolololol……

 

Heh, my Srixon ZX Mk II 7 wood is 21*. It doesn't go any further than a vintage persimmon 4 wood for me - about 200-210.

[Bigmean]

18 hours ago, Mitchell said:

Very solid set of irons that play very long for their loft, played for a good while- the sole grind/beveled-relieved leading edge is really good and the groove pattern tends to eliminate flyers. Good choice!

Yeah, they are really an awesome set, on my short list of shouldn’t have sold…..  I wound up getting the legacy black stensons.  I have always wanted to try them, and I don’t think I will hate them.  I didn’t want to be over $250 for this set and the stensons still fetch a good dollar but I got some for a buck 80 in very reasonable condition for the age, just some chatter.   

[Bigmean]

7 hours ago, TheBiles said:

What’s a nice somewhat modern (last 10 years at least) set of blades that I can pick up second hand in good condition for a reasonable price? I have a set of 690.MBs that are nice, but the shafts are not for me. Looking for something a little more recent. 

If you haven’t tried nippon modus, I’m a huge fan, the feel is great on them.  You can get pulls for under $100.   There are so many good blades out there, I mean sub $400 and the world is almost your oyster in that regard.  Mizuno MP4s are common enough you may be able to find some with shafts you like in them already.  I just saw some listed for $200, that has to be a good bang for buck.

[NRJyzr]

18 hours ago, Bigmean said:

Really?   And hear I am thinking of the old callaway heavenwoods and thinking all these dudes are hitting 29* fairway woods lolololol……

 

Callaway were almost certainly the originators.  😁

 

Then there's the fabled Callaway driver lofts, ugh.  Great for the average player, but made driver acquisition a hellscape for me...
 

[NRJyzr]

7 hours ago, TheBiles said:

What’s a nice somewhat modern (last 10 years at least) set of blades that I can pick up second hand in good condition for a reasonable price? I have a set of 690.MBs that are nice, but the shafts are not for me. Looking for something a little more recent. 

 

I would suggest a reshaft.  Definitely worth the effort if you like the clubheads.

 

Becomes more cost effective if you can do the work yourself.  It's part of the reason I went down that path myself (shaft choices being another).

 

edit:  If it's not something you're interested in, I like Biggie's idea of relatively older Mizunos.  MP4 is a great choice.  I would add Srixon to that mix, they tend to come standard with one of the lovely array of Nippon shafts.

 

Edited July 4 by NRJyzr

[ScooterMcTavish]

7 hours ago, TheBiles said:

What’s a nice somewhat modern (last 10 years at least) set of blades that I can pick up second hand in good condition for a reasonable price? I have a set of 690.MBs that are nice, but the shafts are not for me. Looking for something a little more recent. 

 

Interesting question, as I had typically purchased second hand, but now love a pristine set of irons in my bag.  Anything in a forged club just seems to get beat up badly if the player doesn't take care of them, or doesn't (like me) use iron covers.

 

Depending on your budget, Wilson has been making beautiful MBs the last two iterations, with the prior model year (22?  23?) being pretty heavily discounted.  I could pick up a 4-PW set in Canada with DG Mid shafts (stock) for $1,100 new, or just over $800 US.

 

If this was still outside your budget, there are used sets of the Staffs kicking around, and also the Srixon Z-Forged look pretty darn nice.  Some people do like the TM blades as well, and they've issued a few MB sets over the past few years.    

 

My personal preference however is Mizuno.  There seem to be some sets of MP-221 still kicking around as NOS on clearance, though unlikely you can get them for less than the Staff blades.  Again, challenge is finding used sets in nice shape, as the soft forgings just pick up damage so easy.

[ScooterMcTavish]

14 hours ago, jimb said:

Many years ago, my first experience with golf clubs were blades.  Overtime, I moved to what are now called "players cavity back irons."  I have owned dozens of sets of irons.  Currently gaming the T150, which are fabulous irons by the way.  My last set of blades were Mizuno TP-9 in the 2-PW.  I loved them.  So, I got the itch to see if there was some magic in a blade that I was missing in my cavity backs.

 

I picked up a used Titleist 620 mb 9 iron on eBay and re-shafted it from a pull-out I had lying around and took it to the range at my club.  Right away, I got that feeling from long ago, and it was wonderful.  As nice as the T150 9 iron felt, the mb felt better.  It was a firm feeling, not harsh, in the T150 and soft in the mb.  What was shocking was I did not lose much distance.

 

Now, I go to the range at my club at least 4 days a week for an hour and half for each session.  Most of my time is spent on my iron game, so I can make solid contact.  I think I am going to pick up the 7, 8, and PW in the 620 mb.  There is nothing like the feel of a pure blade at impact and the ball flight and distance I get from a blade is very consistent.  Clearly, this type of iron isn't for everyone, but they are nothing to be feared for a decent ball striker.  

 

Old guy here who also learned on blades.  And still love blades.

 

A traditionally-lofted 7,8,9,PW blade iron should be playable for any decent ball striker, and is why combo sets are popular with decent amateurs.  I looked very hard at the Cobra King CB-MB flow set, where the 4-6 are CB and 7-PW are MB.  Just couldn't find the right shaft match for me.

 

I currently need a little forgiveness, so am playing Players' CB irons, which give me about 90% of the forged blade feel with about 50% more forgiveness. 

[Nard_S]

8 hours ago, TheBiles said:

What’s a nice somewhat modern (last 10 years at least) set of blades that I can pick up second hand in good condition for a reasonable price? I have a set of 690.MBs that are nice, but the shafts are not for me. Looking for something a little more recent. 

Why not Titleist 620's? Pretty sure stock shaft is more pliable than stock .690's. 

[drn92]

On 6/30/2025 at 3:22 AM, nzio said:

Yes this.

 

All from over there seems to be s200, and also shorter in length which is a bummer. 

S200 is only a couple grams. Still a decently heavy shaft. 
 

drn92

[NosajNeelik]

On 6/30/2025 at 2:12 AM, BallHooker said:

Been looking at clubs on eBay. Interesting blades are always with S200 shafts. Why?  Weight is important and good clubs are ruined with light shafts. 
 

Wedges are only acceptable with S400 shafts and irons would then need either X100 or S300/400. I don’t really see any sense in exceptions. 
 

 

S200 are 130 grams that’s not light 

[NosajNeelik]

Just got these. Shafts too heavy (130g) so need a reshaft with $taper 120 I know works for me but the few I middled today def were crispy as a burnt tater tot. 
 

never had a miura before. 
 

weird thing is the swingweights are really light considering such a heavy shaft makes me nervous. Like c8. Except 7 and wedge which are d3/d4. Can’t figure out why as I thought miura specs were second to none. Will weigh the heads when I pull the shafts and see I guess. I’m hoping someone reshafted and just didn’t know what they were doing 

Edited July 5 by NosajNeelik

[Christen_The_Sloop]

S200 are one of the shafts that just work for me. I grew up playing s300 in everything. a few years ago switched to x100, but started using some Tourstage Cbs I left in Canada a couple years ago with nice fat tour velvets and s200s and I kept hitting it close with every single club. I used to think I could overpower them, but now they are just right. And, the tourstage endo forged irons are like butter (CB 701s - totally overlooked club)...

 

So, I am actually headed back to Canada in about two weeks. I am really going to miss the next month in Kyoto (daytime highs getting up close to 40 degrees ((yeah right)). The dilemma is which set to take there. I've been playing around with some Ram Tour Grind (Frequency Matched) 2-PW with FM 6.5s. I've got a set of Mizuno MS-801s with S200s and playable victory full cord grips in 2-PW, some Founders Club 200 series and a few others...

 

Haven't played since March and my foot is about fully recovered - just hitting the range a bit and swinging outside at home. I still feel really good about my game though. I've been overspeed training, throwing around a medicine ball, sprinting, swimming and practicing the short game - hoping I can beat down who ever I get to play with on the westcoast. It's always good times there... This time I might finally hit Tobiano (a gem outside Kamloops BC on the way to my parent's house.

[nzio]

16 hours ago, drn92 said:

S200 is only a couple grams. Still a decently heavy shaft. 
 

drn92

Actually I don’t mind the s200. I like it more than s300. Isn’t as heavy. Problem is the length 

[nzio]

1 hour ago, Christen_The_Sloop said:

S200 are one of the shafts that just work for me. I grew up playing s300 in everything. a few years ago switched to x100, but started using some Tourstage Cbs I left in Canada a couple years ago with nice fat tour velvets and s200s and I kept hitting it close with every single club. I used to think I could overpower them, but now they are just right. And, the tourstage endo forged irons are like butter (CB 701s - totally overlooked club)...

 

So, I am actually headed back to Canada in about two weeks. I am really going to miss the next month in Kyoto (daytime highs getting up close to 40 degrees ((yeah right)). The dilemma is which set to take there. I've been playing around with some Ram Tour Grind (Frequency Matched) 2-PW with FM 6.5s. I've got a set of Mizuno MS-801s with S200s and playable victory full cord grips in 2-PW, some Founders Club 200 series and a few others...

 

Haven't played since March and my foot is about fully recovered - just hitting the range a bit and swinging outside at home. I still feel really good about my game though. I've been overspeed training, throwing around a medicine ball, sprinting, swimming and practicing the short game - hoping I can beat down who ever I get to play with on the westcoast. It's always good times there... This time I might finally hit Tobiano (a gem outside Kamloops BC on the way to my parent's house.

Same here. It’s a great shaft option in the range of modus 120, kbs 120 and such. 

[BallHooker]

4 hours ago, NosajNeelik said:

Just got these. Shafts too heavy (130g) so need a reshaft with $taper 120 I know works for me but the few I middled today def were crispy as a burnt tater tot. 
 

never had a miura before. 
 

weird thing is the swingweights are really light considering such a heavy shaft makes me nervous. Like c8. Except 7 and wedge which are d3/d4. Can’t figure out why as I thought miura specs were second to none. Will weigh the heads when I pull the shafts and see I guess. I’m hoping someone reshafted and just didn’t know what they were doing 

How do you come to the conclusion that a shaft is too heavy? X100 is considered the golden standard of iron shafts and it is 130 grams.

 

My view has always been that heavier is better and going as heavy as possible has been a game changer. Swing weight is less important vs. total weight, but cannot go much wrong with D2-4 on irons. Even here though, heavier might make life easier. 
 

Edited July 5 by BallHooker

[SnowbirdTom]

6 minutes ago, BallHooker said:

How do you come to the conclusion that a shaft is too heavy? X100 is considered the golden standard of iron shafts and it is 130 grams.

 

My view has always been that heavier is better and going as heavy as possible has been a game changer. Swing weight is less important vs. total weight, but cannot go much wrong with D2-4 on irons. Even here though, heavier might make life easier. 
 

 

Not everyone here has the swing speed to motivate an X7. I know, I tried them when I got my copper Cobra RFs. I found them to feel like rebar! Swapped them out for some 105g S200 stiffs and play is really good.

[NRJyzr]

Played yesterday with the Mizuno MS-11's in the bag, with a hardstepped Modus 120 stiff.  Went full 2-pw straight to SW.  Also brought along the King Tec 2h now shafted with Modus 105 stiff, tuned down one click, making it a theoretical 16¼°.

 

Had an adjustment period at first, I'd been swinging shafts that were a flex stronger, with an opposite profile.  Had a couple lefts until I quit adding extra to the swing.  Trajectory increased, as I was hoping, able to hit even the 2i with no trouble.  Haven't played these clubs for a number of years, it was like returning to an old friend.

 

The legendary MS-11 bounce was evident, got through the turf as well as my TS-4 set.  😁

 

Hit the hybrid twice, the 105 shaft gave me what I'd hoped, the added weight I sought, and a similar trajectory bump as I was seeing with the irons.  On #18, I hit it farther than I expected.

 

Looking forward to my men's club event in a few hours.  

 

This afternoon, I'll finish gripping the 986 Tours, may take those to the course for tomorrow's round.

 

Great fun 😁 

 

Edited July 5 by NRJyzr

[NosajNeelik]

3 hours ago, BallHooker said:

How do you come to the conclusion that a shaft is too heavy? X100 is considered the golden standard of iron shafts and it is 130 grams.

 

My view has always been that heavier is better and going as heavy as possible has been a game changer. Swing weight is less important vs. total weight, but cannot go much wrong with D2-4 on irons. Even here though, heavier might make life easier. 
 

You’re not going to find a ton of senior tour players playing the x100. Also it’s the gold standard because it was Th only thing out there forever. I’m 54 but still have speed and play to a 1.
 

But it’s too heavy for me. I don’t like the feel and I’ve played them for two rounds and it’s too heavy lol my arms were actually tired yesterday after the round I can’t ever think of that happening ha

 

and it’s not that I don’t have the speed for them, the profile is also something opposite of what I’m used to. Loved the 120x nippon but moved into $staper after trying them out in a simulator. Got better numbers and felt crisper to me. I don’t like the 125x that’s in these at all  

Edited July 5 by NosajNeelik

[NosajNeelik]

Any ideas why the swingweights of these miuras are so low?  I’m just confused 

[farundrpar]

1 hour ago, NosajNeelik said:

Any ideas why the swingweights of these miuras are so low?  I’m just confused 

Those almost look raw. Are you sure that's the original finish? Maybe they were stripped which would impact SW.