Epoxy dry time before butt trimming

ChristopherMcDonald · May 2, 2015

Just shafted up some Serrano 75's in my woods (first time!!) so far it's going well. How long do I have to wait after I epoxy the heads before butt trimming? Should I let it fully cure before handling?

Thanks all!

freeflyer14 · May 2, 2015

Wait till they cure.

Davewn · May 2, 2015

[quote name='freeflyer14' timestamp='1430597472' post='11486937']
Wait till they cure.
[/quote]

I agree. If you wait until they cure you can turn the ferrule, grip, etc without having to worry about inadvertently grabbing and twisting the head and compromising the bond.

ChristopherMcDonald · May 2, 2015

Sounds good guys will wait,

Thanks!

Ri_Redneck · May 2, 2015

Make sure the temp is 70 or higher.

BT

Nessism · May 2, 2015

What kind of epoxy? I speed cure the epoxy with heat when shafting clubs. 1 hour at 140F and you are done. 90 mins. at 120F pretty much does it too. Heat curing the epoxy increases the strength too.

If it's just one club then I use a 100W light bulb in an old drop light as a heat source. Place the bulb about 3-4 inches from the hosel. If doing more than one club I use some old scrap wood and build a little air dam and use my heat gun set on low blowing into the clubs. Keep the heat gun back about 18" or so. Test the clubs by touching them to make sure you aren't overheating the epoxy. You want them hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch, but not blistering hot by any stretch.

At any rate, use some heat and you can handle the clubs in an hour or less.

ChristopherMcDonald · May 2, 2015

Unfortunately no heat gun available; it's 24 hour epoxy from golfworks.

It's a hot sunny day here in California though, 84* right now it's cooled off from about 90* ealrier so hoping I can finish triimming an gripping tomorrow.

Big shout to Nessism; he made sure I had what I needed before getting into this

Nessism · May 2, 2015

[quote name='ChristopherMcDonald' timestamp='1430603816' post='11487355']
Unfortunately no heat gun available; it's 24 hour epoxy from golfworks.

It's a hot sunny day here in California though, 84* right now it's cooled off from about 90* ealrier so hoping I can finish triimming an gripping tomorrow.

Big shout to Nessism; he made sure I had what I needed before getting into this
[/quote]

NO JOKE: If you can put the clubs on the dash of your car in direct sunlight. The epoxy will be cured in no time.

RookieBlue7 · May 3, 2015

I always cut to length before installing to make sure the swingweight is correct but that's just me. I just leave them 1/8" longer just in case it seats a smudge deeper in the head then trim off the little bit extra if need be.

Golfrnut · May 3, 2015

I also butt cut before gluing. That and old grips are how I set length and swingweight before build-up. Not needed quite as much with woods that have adjustable weighting, but is helpful for properly tip weighting irons, etc.

ChristopherMcDonald · May 3, 2015

Just finished both clubs, once the grips dry out ill swing them and see if I need any lead tape for feel but right now they feel solid, have a nice weight to them. Pretty excited it went well

cristphoto · May 3, 2015

I use the 12 hour epoxy and don't touch the club at all for at least two hours. Then I may move the clubs to a corner for safety. I always let sit overnight to fully cure. This is an area you just can't rush.

DLiver · May 4, 2015

I also use a heat box (shoe box lined with aluminum foil) and a painters lamp. It gets the clubs up to 110º and they are good in about 4 hours. the bond is stronger, too. Once they are set, I finish up (butt trimming, ferrule turning, etc).

Techvan4Life · May 4, 2015

Just curious, how did you swingweight the club if you did not trim it to length before epoxying?

Nessism · May 4, 2015

The following information is from 3M regarding curing for DP460 epoxy, but the general idea applies for other slow dry epoxies as well.

Before heating the epoxy it's generally best to allow it to firm up first. If you don't do this the heat will make the epoxy more liquid initially, which may cause it to sag out of the joint.

Hope this helps and reduces the confusion.

ChristopherMcDonald · May 4, 2015

[quote name='Techvan4Life' timestamp='1430744672' post='11494381']
Just curious, how did you swingweight the club if you did not trim it to length before epoxying?
[/quote]

mostly a feel player, knew the swingweight was about d2 prior to starting with the old shafts, gained about 2 swingweight points from swapping to the heavier shafts, so thinking I'm around D4 now. I play my driver around D4/5 so I'm thinking i will like it. I have lead tape coming out of my ears so I figure if I needed to adjust, I could do so by feel and add what I felt I needed. Hope this helps.

Techvan4Life · May 4, 2015

[quote name='ChristopherMcDonald' timestamp='1430753370' post='11495253']
[quote name='Techvan4Life' timestamp='1430744672' post='11494381']
Just curious, how did you swingweight the club if you did not trim it to length before epoxying?
[/quote]

mostly a feel player, knew the swingweight was about d2 prior to starting with the old shafts, gained about 2 swingweight points from swapping to the heavier shafts, so thinking I'm around D4 now. I play my driver around D4/5 so I'm thinking i will like it. I have lead tape coming out of my ears so I figure if I needed to adjust, I could do so by feel and add what I felt I needed. Hope this helps.
[/quote]

Thanks, I was more curious if you knew something the rest of us didn't or you just didn't bother to swingweight it properly. I'm not one that just thinks about what my swingweight is, I use a scale.

ChristopherMcDonald · May 4, 2015

[quote name='Techvan4Life' timestamp='1430753571' post='11495271']
[quote name='ChristopherMcDonald' timestamp='1430753370' post='11495253']
[quote name='Techvan4Life' timestamp='1430744672' post='11494381']
Just curious, how did you swingweight the club if you did not trim it to length before epoxying?
[/quote]

mostly a feel player, knew the swingweight was about d2 prior to starting with the old shafts, gained about 2 swingweight points from swapping to the heavier shafts, so thinking I'm around D4 now. I play my driver around D4/5 so I'm thinking i will like it. I have lead tape coming out of my ears so I figure if I needed to adjust, I could do so by feel and add what I felt I needed. Hope this helps.
[/quote]

Thanks, I was more curious if you knew something the rest of us didn't or you just didn't bother to swingweight it properly. I'm not one that just thinks about what my swingweight is, I use a scale.
[/quote]

haha yeah I know where I was and knew kind of where I wanted to end up and with help from this site I was able to get enough information to feel comfortable leaving the swing weight as is.

Goal of this build was cheap. So i got everything i need to re-grip/re-shaft for essentially the cost of reshafting two clubs through a store. This cut down on what I could buy.

What I would buy to do it better from here out would be:

Dremel w/ cut wheel
S/W Scale
Work bench/vise (I work on my balcony at my apartment)

Aside from those items, I felt I was able to successfully get this project taken care of with minimal cost, but as I said I would have much rather had the items above to really do a complete job, but given the space constraints, I am very happy with the results.

ChristopherMcDonald · May 4, 2015

Wanted to add just a few photos of the build, not great, just kind of snapped them as I finished up. Thanks for everyones help with this, really thrilled with how they came out. Just need to turn the ferrules a tiny amount and I'll be all set.