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Poor Fittings and Poor Use of Technology


AC-Golf

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I started with re-gripping about 10 years ago and have progressed to the point now that I assemble all of my own clubs now. Also do it for others now, but it's still a hobby, not a career. I spend a lot of time on here and other golf websites/videos/news articles/etc. I've taken basic fitting and club assembly classes. So I really like to do my own work. Twice now, I have felt getting a proper fitting would be beneficial for me.

 

First, I went for an iron fitting at the start of 2014. I was having a hard time finding the right shafts, so I thought this would be a good chance to try some out. The fitter was so focused on smash factor and distance. In the end I became really inconsistent with the irons recommended. Had to get rid of them. Trackman was used for the fitting, but hitting indoors off a mat did not translate to the course.

 

Second, I went for a wedge fitting a few days ago. And after hitting a lob wedge, that I explained will mostly be used around the green, the fitter explained my smash factor was too low (also trackman) and that he could get this up with another shaft. What!!??

 

Am I missing something. I can see smash factor is important for irons, but it should not be the #1 thing. And maybe that one was an issue of indoors vs outdoors. For the wedge fitting... are you kidding me? No way do I care what the smash factor is on a 58* wedge.

 

I really do believe a good fitting can add value. And Trackman definitely has it's place. But it's hard with these experiences to continue. I think it may be better to experiment with individual irons I do myself and go from there.

 

Has anyone had similar experiences? For those that love their fitter/clubmaker, how did you find them?

[color=#0000ff]Titleist TSR3 8*[/color]
[color=#0000ff]Callaway Epic SZ 15*[/color]
[color=#0000ff]Taylormade M3 Hybrids 17, 21[/color]
[color=#0000ff]Srixon ZX Utility 23[/color]
[color=#0000FF]Bridgestone 221CB 6-PW[/color]
[color=#0000FF]Miura 50, 54, 58C - KBS Tour[/color]
[color=#0000FF]Byron Morgan DH89[/color]

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one source that may help is Dales Golf Shop @ Portage MI, about 45 miles from you
[url="http://wishongolf.com/find-a-clubfitter/"]http://wishongolf.com/find-a-clubfitter/[/url]

Even thou the wedges are so different in their use and function and should be fit separate from the irons, the fitted iron specs (shaft weight, swingweight, flex and length) are still used to help fit the wedges properly.

If your lob wedge will be used mostly around the green, the shaft will load or flex less causing a loss of feel for touch shots. Since a wedge shaft is already short and stiff, to restore feel, start with slightly more shaft weight [u]than your irons [/u](approx. 15-20g). This will 1) help the clubhead stay strong and square from fluffy lies around the green and 2) forse the golfer to swing to a constant beat, allowing the length of the swing to control the distance of the shot. [u]Then[/u] if still necessary, [u]adjust flex [/u]using a longer (so softer) tip section with slightly more head weight [u]than the irons[/u] to enhance your feel even more.

To adjust shot height or spin, you'll need a wedge specific shaft that is either VERY soft (much more than a so-called spinner shaft, that will allow the shaft to curve forward at impact, increasing dynamic loft, increasing shot height and spin) or very stiff. But then it becomes a matter of feel. If your one of the rare ones that can feel a 1/2 flex, than you probably hate the feeling of a shaft moving and prefer a dead stiff shaft.

Wedge shafts are all about feel...whatever feels the best so it may take some trial and experimentation.

Wedge length is based on personal comfort , function and the fitted 9i length. If you have no preference, the clubfitter will decide for you. Wedge length could be the same as the PW (10i) or using 2/8, 3/8 or 4/8" increments. More full shots could require a slighty longer length while more partial swings could require a more delicate,shorter swing or length. For example, PW/AW (35.5"), SW (35.25") and LW (35").

Your on the right track. Most probably start with clubmaking then graduate to clubfitting. If you have the time, you can learn it yourself. Start with a good textbook from [u]Wishon[/u], Golfsmith or Golfworks.

Hope this helped a bit
M60

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Thanks for the lead on a potential fitter. I'll check them out. Also appreciate the advice. I have a conex adapter and an extra wedge head. I'll get some extra wedge shafts and like the idea of soft stepping for the lob wedge. Definitely worth a try. Thanks again.

[color=#0000ff]Titleist TSR3 8*[/color]
[color=#0000ff]Callaway Epic SZ 15*[/color]
[color=#0000ff]Taylormade M3 Hybrids 17, 21[/color]
[color=#0000ff]Srixon ZX Utility 23[/color]
[color=#0000FF]Bridgestone 221CB 6-PW[/color]
[color=#0000FF]Miura 50, 54, 58C - KBS Tour[/color]
[color=#0000FF]Byron Morgan DH89[/color]

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[quote name='AC-Golf' timestamp='1431430052' post='11543772']
Thanks for the lead on a potential fitter. I'll check them out. Also appreciate the advice. I have a conex adapter and an extra wedge head. I'll get some extra wedge shafts and like the idea of soft stepping for the lob wedge. Definitely worth a try. Thanks again.
[/quote]

Shaft flex on a wedge is virtually irrelevant, according to most everyone in the know. It's simply too short to make much of a difference. Flex point might make a slight difference in feel and possibly effect the height of a full shot, but it's likely to be deminimis.

Smash factor on a wedge? Sounds ridiculous to me.

Does Luke Donald have a favorite Wedge shaft? Probably, but there aren't many people on earth with his sensitivity with a wedge in his hand.

Your experience with a "fitter" seems consistent with what most others say ... not very useful and frustrating. You're a 5 handicapper, you know if the golf ball is doing what you want it to do. I think you're on the right track, do some experimentation on your own.

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It's odd but I find, even when I'm on my own on a launch monitor, that I chase after the numbers. Whether it's height, or spin or distance or whatever I'm interested in, I'll start to alter my swing to get better numbers. While in theory it may be desirable to get those numbers it doesn't necessarily work best on the golf course. Consistency does.

I can imagine that a fitter, knowing little about your real game, has little else to go on but the numbers. I'm not sure that picking equipment based on the fitting session environment, chasing after the best numbers, will result in the best choice of equipment. If you find the shafts that makes it seem like the clubs hit themselves then you probably have something. I do think that talking about smash factor on a lob wedge, trying to maximize distance is ridiculous, unless of course you were hitting it all over the face, which I doubt.

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Thanks for validating my concerns guys. I did the fitting because I wanted to test the Edel grinds. In the end, I guessed right on what I wanted. I'll do the shaft work myself. Appreciate the feedback.

[color=#0000ff]Titleist TSR3 8*[/color]
[color=#0000ff]Callaway Epic SZ 15*[/color]
[color=#0000ff]Taylormade M3 Hybrids 17, 21[/color]
[color=#0000ff]Srixon ZX Utility 23[/color]
[color=#0000FF]Bridgestone 221CB 6-PW[/color]
[color=#0000FF]Miura 50, 54, 58C - KBS Tour[/color]
[color=#0000FF]Byron Morgan DH89[/color]

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Smash factor is nothing more than a numerical way to show compression against the ball. The more direct the strike, the better the smash factor. With that being said, the biggest factor in that is dynamic loft and how much a person delofts or adds loft at impact. When you are talking lower lofted wedges, like gap and pitching wedges, there can be some merit in paying attention to the number. Even still, the effect is primarily induced by the golfer as shaft flex is going to be minimal, if any, as others have stated. There can always be some outside influences like shaft weights being a bad fit as an example, but I still would not expect anything major in terms of change. Once you get into higher lofts, the monitors start getting a bit skewed anyway and there is so much in play there in terms of how each person plays a wedge, IMO, there is absolutely no reason to pay any attention to what the smash factor is spitting out there. If you are an instructor and looking to alter club delivery with a goal in mind, sure, because that is a visual reference to any changes that are taking place. In terms of fitting, IMO, it doesn't have much of a place. Some prefer lower trajectories, some higher. That of itself, will change the registered numbers a lot. Does it mean one is good and one is bad? No, it just means that one uses the same clubs differently. I could be way off here, but it sounds as though they may be chasing a "chart" like the PGA averages or something that was passed on to them or that they learned, and missing the intent of what the monitor is useful for.

Qi10 Core Head 9* w/ AD-DI 6S  
BRNR 13.5 w/ AD DI 7S     or     Qi10 Tour 3W w/ AD DI 7S
Callaway UW 17* w/ Diamana S+ 70 X5CT

Titleist TS2 19* Hybrid w/ PX Evenflow Blue 85 6.0

4-PW Srixon ZX7s w/ DG AMT White S300s   or   4-PW Nike VR Pros w/ AMT S300s   or   4-PW BS J15 MBs w/ AMT S300s (sometimes I enjoy punishing myself)
MG2 TW Grind 56/60 at 54/58
Spider Tour X3

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