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MacGregor Louise Suggs First Lady R735 , looks unplayed. Not common to find decent looking older wedges at Goodwill i find. 

 

image.png.13a6970e45e25669a63a35bced18ac8f.png

Edited by Maine Golfer
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Woods: Wilson Staff D7 10.5, Wilson Staff D9 5 Wood 18 , Sub 70 949X 7 Wood 21 (HZRDUS Smoke Blue)

Irons: Ping Zings 2, 4-5 , Wilson Staff 1988 Goosenecks 6 - 8

Wedges: Mizuno T22 45  , Ben Hogan Forged 50  Titleist Sm5 Black 54,  Wilson Sandy Andy 57

Putter: Acushnet Bulls Eye 

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Ball:  Yellow AVXs 

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Other sets include:  1972 Wilson X31's 2 to PW , Hogan Redline's 1988  4 to E (no 7), 1988 Jack Nicklaus Super Eye-O-Matic (EOM) Persimmons

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2 hours ago, SUITS said:

If anyone comes across a lefty partial set of old stuff I want to make a minimalist setup. I should have never gotten rid of my old eye 2 laminates. 

I've got a couple of possibilities...

- a Spalding RTJ Kro-Flite 7 iron w/TrueTemper StepDown steel shaft & leather grip (w/what feels like a grip reminder) & PowerBilt Citation (horseshoe logo) 10 iron w/TT Dynamic steel shaft & PowerBilt grip.

- a set of Harvey Penick Master 3 thru LW & Taylor Made Tour Cleek II 19*, Penick Professional 7 wood 23*, Wishon Golf 321 LI 28* hybrid (no driver).


no left handed putter of any type, I could find....why not consider any of the double sided putters - John Letters Golden Goose (came out a few years prior to the Bullseye), or a Spur, or a Cash-In...plenty of choices out there in the vintage line...

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1 hour ago, bcstones said:

I've got a couple of possibilities...

- a Spalding RTJ Kro-Flite 7 iron w/TrueTemper StepDown steel shaft & leather grip (w/what feels like a grip reminder) & PowerBilt Citation (horseshoe logo) 10 iron w/TT Dynamic steel shaft & PowerBilt grip.

- a set of Harvey Penick Master 3 thru LW & Taylor Made Tour Cleek II 19*, Penick Professional 7 wood 23*, Wishon Golf 321 LI 28* hybrid (no driver).


no left handed putter of any type, I could find....why not consider any of the double sided putters - John Letters Golden Goose (came out a few years prior to the Bullseye), or a Spur, or a Cash-In...plenty of choices out there in the vintage line...

I do have a JR heavy blade bullseye I like but it’s a little short when wearing my spikes. I could certainly find another in 35 I think. The best feeling putter I have is actually a Arnold Palmer original with the leather grip, it is a righty unfortunately but I bought it anyway for my office

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10 minutes ago, SUITS said:

Didn’t want to destroy the original leather grip. It’s in decent shape. I am sure I will come across something

You can still use that good/decent leather for the regrip...Or take to a professional & have them do it for you. Still should be cheaper than buying another...at least why not find out?

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18 hours ago, SUITS said:

Any lefty’s out there that swing regular, play it again in Rochester has a brand new set of 2-w dynapowered for $100

listing says used and with new packaging?IMG_8607.jpeg.b741b40c610eecded2fd75a18da99517.jpeg

IMG_8606.jpeg.d6e0d7fac56ecb7c3233e71b8558e5f5.jpeg

WOW! Those are either re chromed or they are the nicest original set in existence. Iron Factory clubs perhaps? Professionally or knowledgeable DIY someone spent a lot of money. Curious on the no paint fill but chrome is king to a lot of people 

Edited by ezgoer
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1 hour ago, ezgoer said:

WOW! Those are either re chromed or they are the nicest original set in existence. Iron Factory clubs perhaps? Professionally or knowledgeable DIY someone spent a lot of money. Curious on the no paint fill but chrome is king to a lot of people 

The other photo in the listing shows some original clear packaging from some of the clubs, 

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1 hour ago, ezgoer said:

WOW! Those are either re chromed or they are the nicest original set in existence. Iron Factory clubs perhaps? Professionally or knowledgeable DIY someone spent a lot of money. Curious on the no paint fill but chrome is king to a lot of people 

Rechromed for sure. Damage to some ferrules and the pins are non-original. Look nice, tho.

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50 minutes ago, SUITS said:

Having a hard time not purchasing but I think the shafts will be a problem for me

Think I heard some Wilson irons are more difficult to reshaft than others but that may have been an 80’s model. Brother Stephen8802 would know I bet. 
 

 I bought a set of 69 Bullet Back heads I’ve been dragging my feet to reshaft. They were aluminum shafted clubs originally and need to be reamed first for a .355 shafts. Pretty sure the steel shafted versions of these years are just pretty basic plug and play swaps for a .355 but I’ve never done this.

Edited by ezgoer
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14 minutes ago, ezgoer said:

Think I heard some Wilson irons are more difficult to reshaft than others

 

FG17s were said to have threaded hosels, with shafts screwed in as well as glued.  Not sure how many models prior to the 17s that practice was used.

 

There was quite a thread here several years ago, one of our brethren creating a wooden tool with a huge split for the head to fit into, to aid in unscrewing the clubhead.

 

The Line Under Staff Blades from 84-86 were pinned.  A different sort of difficult.  😉 

 

Edited by NRJyzr
My phone thinks "hosels" are really "hotels"
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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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6 hours ago, SUITS said:

How hard is it to reshaft that set? I have a set of s300 shafts in the garage. I’m a x100 player so I’m guessing the regulars are a no go. Is there any leading edge relief on the 1959s?

Unfortunately those are quite difficult to reshaft for multiple reasons.  Those shafts will play stiffer than regular but not stiff like an X100.  Like a soft stepped S300 maybe but not X100.

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What was called a regular shaft in the 50s and 60s is not what we would call a regular shaft today, it is much stiffer. Using my deflection board, I just measured my 1959 Staff 7 iron, the same shaft as the set above, and compared it to the my FG-53 Gooseneck 7 iron, which has an S300 shaft. The 1959 R shaft measured stiffer than the S300. I play Wilson R shafts up to the mid 70s without reshafting, and enjoy playing them, but I have all of my later 70s Staffs through the FG-53s with Dynamic Stiff or S300s or equivalent. I wouldn't be worried about a R Pro Fit shaft.

 

Interestingly, I have an X Rocket shaft in a Golf Craft driver that I hit for the first time yesterday. I measured it on the deflection board before I went and it measured spot on S-300, and when I played it, it played normal stiff. So, when it comes to shaft stiffness in the 50s and 60s, you just can't make assumptions that the shaft stiffness designation matches what you would think if you picked up golf in the 80s or later.

 

Also, about re-shafting, Wilson irons past the late 50s are not threaded and the last pinned set was the '60-'61 Dyna Powered...so if they have a red plug, they are not pinned. (Even if a shaft is pinned, it only takes a few minutes watch in a Mike Rees video to learn how to remove them and a tube of JB Epoxy putty to fill in the holes when you reshaft them). However, they can be a bear to get off which would make them seem threaded. I have re-shafted many Staffs, including two sets of aluminum shafts, several mid-70s sets, and some Line Overs. The worst I've found are the '76 Staffs, which were so hard to get off I had to do it 2-3 shafts at a time and then come back later; they effort and frustration was just too much to do a whole set at once. If you are going to re-shaft any Staffs, especially FG-17s and before, do not attempt without the right tools, meaning aluminum shaft clamps, a leverage bar (I've used my homemade and one from Golfworks with success), and a torch. And, if you are putting in Dynamic Gold shafts, you will want to do a quick hand ream so they fit properly. If you are going to re-shaft '67-'70 Staffs that came with aluminum shafts, you will absolutely need to ream the heads for steel shafts to fit. If you are thinking of swapping shafts like for like, such as putting a Button Back shaft in a '73-'75 Staff iron, don't bother, it's not woth the trouble. I have no problem swapping modern shafts, say after 1980, but the pressure fit Wilson shafts don't come off or go back in easily. 

 

If you have the proper tools, it is a challenge, but an enjoyable and doable undertaking. Just don't do it without the proper tools.

 

 

Edited by Stephen8802
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8 hours ago, ezgoer said:

Thrift finds have really slowed but got a cool little Ray Cook putter for $3.50. Initially thought it was corrosion but it did have some type of dark finish and what appeared to be round brass weights on the bottom near heel and toe that disappeared after sanding. Got rid of 90 percent of all the little dings. Pretty sure it’s copper but being unsure of beryllium possibility I used wet sand paper, liquid polish and gloves to be safe. What a mess! Turned out pretty good. Needs some finishing around neck to even up a little but I’m not looking for a mirrored finish so not gonna go crazy with a buffer. 
IMG_2355.jpeg.e073946cd773925abddfb243d50b6b86.jpegIMG_2354.jpeg.1df7fa266c4adf538b420ee5f75d31a0.jpeg
Has a pretty small or short face compared to my other 80’s remake Wilson and Mac Napa’s. Little more compact heel to toe compared to those and a little deeper front to back. On the lighter side though. Good original grip.

IMG_2356.jpeg.470aa2265d73155fc63677bb967c82e8.jpegIMG_2352.jpeg.8942cd7133c8f564df669153585f32eb.jpeg
Classic Ironmaster IMG

8802

8882

Ray Cook

IMG_2357.jpeg.e0260f687b827f2cef44b208e7028d83.jpeg
Picked up a partial set of these Spalding irons 2-7 & SW for the TT DG S300 shafts. If anyone has interest in the heads let me know and you can have them when I pull em off. 

interesting Ray Cook...I believe it came from one of the 2 companies that bought the business after Ray Cook died....there seems to be a 3rd company now, based out of Virginia. The logo's tell the story.

For some reason, I have a soft spot for the cast SS irons......

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1 hour ago, RolandofGilead said:

I have had a couple of good scores recently:


Ram Wizard 600 with almost zero face wear ($7):IMG_4039.jpeg.109307e120a7f1e1167c5597a2f060b2.jpeg


IMG_4040.jpeg.2b699a66b7d7ff4b0c7d2e98a9c149ee.jpeg

 

Wilson Staff Line Over 1i in incredible shape with stock stiff shaft ($2):

 IMG_4168.jpeg.d7f4fa2905d1d5694c67689fc7c8dde0.jpeg
Great find! I’ve been on the hunt for one myself, very elusive:)

IMG_4169.jpeg.81428cdc00ae3e8105f360b7ba640b53.jpeg

 

Set of MacGregor Muirfield 20th’s ($30), since re-shafted with X100s and in the bag for the winter:

IMG_4002.jpeg.21e32e97e7dd05a02f7dc5b41ba4de07.jpeg

 

IMG_4046.jpeg.04c8ae21d2ba633ade7575de6d2a833e.jpeg

 

Edited by Forged Hack
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2 hours ago, Forged Hack said:

Great find! I’ve been on the hunt for one myself, very elusive:)

I almost couldn’t believe it when I saw it - a very rare find indeed. And with the right shaft for me 😍

D| Titleist 975D EI-70 or 975J Proforce V2 7F5

4W| TM V Steel 16.5* Proforce V2 8F5

6W| Titleist PT20 Proforce V2 8F5

Irons| Maxfli DP-801, Hogan Apex Redline, Wilson Staff FG-51

SW, LW| Cleveland 588 RTG, Maltby TSW

P| Tad Moore TM30, Maxfli TM-11

Ball| Maxfli Tour

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