Grip is twisting, after air compressor install

[emo]

I have been installing grips for two years and now I am having problems with grips twisting after a couple of rounds. The only thing that has change is the grip itself, now use Golf Pride MCC Plus4 and occasionally I would put a small hole in the grip to let air escape to help grip slide on. Need some advise anyone.

[jslane57]

Maybe the grip size is different as well? 60 instead of 58 or something? Or is the grip just not going back to shape afterwards? I could possibly see that with a cord grip. Even so, moving after a few rounds sounds like maybe moisture is getting in there. Are you storing the clubs in the trunk of the car and the condensation is getting into the shaft? Just thinking outside the box here. I've had great luck taking grips off using air, but putting them on, nope. I stick with tape and mineral spirits for reasons of consistency and such.

[bradski]

I would air it off and add a couple strips on gripping tape and then reinstall.

[emo]

Maybe the grip size is different as well? 60 instead of 58 or something? Or is the grip just not going back to shape afterwards? I could possibly see that with a cord grip. Even so, moving after a few rounds sounds like maybe moisture is getting in there. Are you storing the clubs in the trunk of the car and the condensation is getting into the shaft? Just thinking outside the box here. I've had great luck taking grips off using air, but putting them on, nope. I stick with tape and mineral spirits for reasons of consistency and such.

I don't ever leave clubs in my car, and I'm not sure about grip size I will explore that. I accasionlly use one sided masking tape half way down.

[jslane57]

Maybe the grip size is different as well? 60 instead of 58 or something? Or is the grip just not going back to shape afterwards? I could possibly see that with a cord grip. Even so, moving after a few rounds sounds like maybe moisture is getting in there. Are you storing the clubs in the trunk of the car and the condensation is getting into the shaft? Just thinking outside the box here. I've had great luck taking grips off using air, but putting them on, nope. I stick with tape and mineral spirits for reasons of consistency and such.

No, I don't leave clubs in ever and not sure about size I will explore that. I do use a one sided masking tape half way down.

I do know when I use air to remove grips that sometimes the tape is left on the club, and other times it is in the grip. Could be a tape issue as well. I wouldn't be surprised if it is just bad luck with a little tape issue and little grip issus combining to do this. You may do the exact same install with other grips and tape and never have this issue again.

[Waterboy]

I've been using a strip of blue painters tape with grips I blow on and they seem to stay out pretty well.

 

The only issue I've had is in my putter and that is because the taper starts and I lose the contact between the inside of the grip and the shaft.

 

 

[baudi]

sorry to hear but now you know why to use tape and solvent for installing grips.

[Cwebb]

My standard install for air, is to always have the entire shaft diamater to be built so that its slightly larger than the inside diameter of the grip. The grip I.D has to have enough size to hold onto.

 

If that doesn't work, you can also use two side sticky tape for the top 1.5", then masking tape the rest of the shaft length to get the size right. This would allow you chance to still work the grip back off later, since you only stuck the top cap down

[emo]

Thanks for all of the replies, just don't understand how I could go from perfect installs to grips twisting using same technic.

[Ri_Redneck]

Sometimes the material the grip is made of doesn't hold as well as other materials. I would just use DS tape with a bit of solvent and call it a day. The main reason I install with air is because I use leather grips which last a lot longer than some of the clubs they're installed on.

 

BT

[IsleOfMan]

I've had a few specific grips twist, even .580 on .600 shafts with a single wrap of blue painter's tape. Luckily these were VERY inexpensive grips (Black Widow Widow Maker blems), so I just re-did them with grip tape and solvent. I'm going to try a set of MCC4s with air as well, but I think they may be counterfeit and won't be surprised if I have to re-do them with grip tape and solvent as well.

[Cwebb]

Thanks for all of the replies, just don't understand how I could go from perfect installs to grips twisting using same technic.

 

Also make sure you fully rinse out the grips. Sometimes residue and dust can get in there, which makes the material less tacky and less likely to hold

[Shambles]

The grip, if brand new,, is too large, the shaft is too small, or the grip has enlarged from too many fit and refit operations. Whichever, the solution is to simply add a layer of build up tape. Not a big deal. A child's shaft really does come with shafts of smaller diameter in some cases, and grips do get a very little bit larger with every fit and refit operation.

 

 

 

Shambles

[400yards+]

I install all most all grips with air and painters tape. Your issue is this type of grip. The mcc+4 will absolutely not stick with a masking/painters tape install. I have tried hard even with building them up a few layers and with .610 shafts and they still move. Sorry to say but if you are set on these grips you will have to do it with the old grip tape and solvent method. Side note the number 1 50 series I can't get to stay put with air install either, but they do try to stay a little more than the mcc+4.

[Mikeski]

I quit using grip tape on my own clubs. I put 2 full lengths of masking take on the shaft then add a little solvent to get the grip started then use air to put it on. Haven't had a problem of any of the grips slipping from driver down to wedges.

Sometimes I'll put a strip of grip tape at the bottom edge of the grip if I do feel like the bottom area of the grip is slipping.

[smellysell]

I use contact cement instead of solvent to get the grip started and then blow them on (stole idea from bestgrips website!). Haven't had a problem.

[Bigjim1022]

I install all most all grips with air and painters tape. Your issue is this type of grip. The mcc+4 will absolutely not stick with a masking/painters tape install. I have tried hard even with building them up a few layers and with .610 shafts and they still move. Sorry to say but if you are set on these grips you will have to do it with the old grip tape and solvent method. Side note the number 1 50 series I can't get to stay put with air install either, but they do try to stay a little more than the mcc+4.

 

My entire bag, except the putter, has MCC +4 midsize grips on them that I installed with air and a layer of tape.

 

I used the Golfworks build up tape and have not had any issues with twisting. Not sure how that tape differs from masking/painters tape, thickness maybe?

[Hot Rod 71]

I've installed close to 100 NDMC and MCC+4 grips over the last year using the painter's tape and air method. I've never had any slipping issues. Once I got my technique down, its very easy.

 

The lower, rubber portion of these grips is very pliable while the upper, corded section is very stiff. Wen blowing these on the lower rubber section slides on easily, and will quickly balloon with too much air. Once the upper, corded section reaches the shaft it can be difficult to slide on due to its stiffness (it almost seems like the opening to the corded section is smaller than the rest of the grip and does not stretch easily). This usually results in the lower part ballooning severely. I ruined quite a few grips in the beginning because of this.

 

The fix - First, turn down your air pressure to ~60. Next, use solvent. Even though you are using plain old masking tape or painter's tape, you can still use solvent to assist in the install. With these grips I squirt some into the grip and then dump it out of the grip onto the shaft. I then start the grip onto the shaft without air and then SLOWLY feed the grip on while feathering the air, keeping a hand around the lower rubber part in order to feel if it starts ballooning. If it does, stop immediately and use a pick or small flat-head screwdriver to insert into the mouth of the grip and let the air out. No need to puncture the grip.

 

The grip will need time to dry and usually takes 2-4 hours. Still less time than a traditional install.

 

Some may ask "if you're going to use solvent why not just go traditional solvent/double-sided tape?" Well, you can but if you decide to change out the grip later, you will most likely have to cut it off. Installing with air and solvent you can remove easily with air.

[emo]

I've installed close to 100 NDMC and MCC+4 grips over the last year using the painter's tape and air method. I've never had any slipping issues. Once I got my technique down, its very easy.

 

The lower, rubber portion of these grips is very pliable while the upper, corded section is very stiff. Wen blowing these on the lower rubber section slides on easily, and will quickly balloon with too much air. Once the upper, corded section reaches the shaft it can be difficult to slide on due to its stiffness (it almost seems like the opening to the corded section is smaller than the rest of the grip and does not stretch easily). This usually results in the lower part ballooning severely. I ruined quite a few grips in the beginning because of this.

 

The fix - First, turn down your air pressure to ~60. Next, use solvent. Even though you are using plain old masking tape or painter's tape, you can still use solvent to assist in the install. With these grips I squirt some into the grip and then dump it out of the grip onto the shaft. I then start the grip onto the shaft without air and then SLOWLY feed the grip on while feathering the air, keeping a hand around the lower rubber part in order to feel if it starts ballooning. If it does, stop immediately and use a pick or small flat-head screwdriver to insert into the mouth of the grip and let the air out. No need to puncture the grip.

 

The grip will need time to dry and usually takes 2-4 hours. Still less time than a traditional install.

 

Some may ask "if you're going to use solvent why not just go traditional solvent/double-sided tape?" Well, you can but if you decide to change out the grip later, you will most likely have to cut it off. Installing with air and solvent you can remove easily with air.

Again thanks for all the replies all of the tips have been helpful, however I do find this the most helpful because I do accasionslly get the ballooning when the air is turn up to 90 psi. I like the idea of changing the grips out without needing to cut them off later if needed. In addition to the install I will try the solvent to help with sliding the grip on easier, and keeping something close by if I encounter ballooning. Now when I think back when the balloon occur It take place on the bottom half and thats the section that twist. For the grips that I believe been stretched out do to ballooning I will use a piece of double sided tape in the bottom portion.

 

Thanks all, this is why I love Golf WRX.

[Socrates]

I've read on here that guys will use a cloth wrapped around the grip to prevent ballooning. This is usually done in taking them off, but I see no reason to not do it putting them on.

 

Once grips are stretched - even a little - there really is no good alternative to putting them on other than more tape. Good luck with the next try and hope it works.

[Waterboy]

I've installed close to 100 NDMC and MCC+4 grips over the last year using the painter's tape and air method. I've never had any slipping issues. Once I got my technique down, its very easy.

 

The lower, rubber portion of these grips is very pliable while the upper, corded section is very stiff. Wen blowing these on the lower rubber section slides on easily, and will quickly balloon with too much air. Once the upper, corded section reaches the shaft it can be difficult to slide on due to its stiffness (it almost seems like the opening to the corded section is smaller than the rest of the grip and does not stretch easily). This usually results in the lower part ballooning severely. I ruined quite a few grips in the beginning because of this.

 

The fix - First, turn down your air pressure to ~60. Next, use solvent. Even though you are using plain old masking tape or painter's tape, you can still use solvent to assist in the install. With these grips I squirt some into the grip and then dump it out of the grip onto the shaft. I then start the grip onto the shaft without air and then SLOWLY feed the grip on while feathering the air, keeping a hand around the lower rubber part in order to feel if it starts ballooning. If it does, stop immediately and use a pick or small flat-head screwdriver to insert into the mouth of the grip and let the air out. No need to puncture the grip.

 

The grip will need time to dry and usually takes 2-4 hours. Still less time than a traditional install.

 

Some may ask "if you're going to use solvent why not just go traditional solvent/double-sided tape?" Well, you can but if you decide to change out the grip later, you will most likely have to cut it off. Installing with air and solvent you can remove easily with air.

 

I stand with Hot Rod on this one. Same method and same grips. Never an issue for me.

[Shambles]

I've read on here that guys will use a cloth wrapped around the grip to prevent ballooning. This is usually done in taking them off, but I see no reason to not do it putting them on.

 

Once grips are stretched - even a little - there really is no good alternative to putting them on other than more tape. Good luck with the next try and hope it works.

 

There is another way. Simply pull the grip a bit , stretching it, and it will also become a snug fit. Unfortunately, pulling the grip also makes the grip a touch thinner, reducing the cushion that the grip was designed to have for whatever that cushion can serve. Some people with weaker hands can find the grips harsh when stretched too much.

 

Working with old grips is a job and a half but sometimes we are forced to as, for example, we want to use the grips on a different set and cannot spend the money. Under those forced circumstances, you need a small disposable hypo to inject some solvent so you can break the adhesion the grips develop after a couple of days on your clubs. To be honest, I have NEVER had a set of grips that I could easily blow off after they have been on my clubs for a few days. Not even when I installed them with only water. Rather unfortunate, but solvent continues to be necessary.

 

 

 

Shambles

[hardboiled]

I spray a bit of the missus's hair spray in the grip and a bit on the shaft before installing by air. Takes a couple of hours to dry, but doesn't twist. And easy to blow off too.

[bladehunter]

I think it depends on the player. I've blown on every grip you can think of. THey all slip eventually with me. I now only blow them on to test size or buildup. Then back off and adjust and add tape then old method of install. It's the only real way in my opinion.

[cwglum]

I've installed with air for the past 2 yrs and have not had a grip slip I use .580 core round 'standard' material Lamkin Crosslines and/or GP Tour velvets. No issues for me after the first few. I really jacked up the first couple I tried, had the compressor on way to high. Just like anything, trial and error, got it figured out now though.

[RichieHunt]

I’ve put on virtually thousands of grips using the air compressor and usually not adding any tape (even tape to build it up). And I have probably encountered maybe a dozen issues with any grips that I’ve used or customers have used.

 

Those issues usually revolved around Golf Pride grips. Perhaps it’s the company or perhaps that Golf Pride is so popular that there’s a sampling bias.

 

My guess is that you’re using too high of a PSI. I keep it at 50-60 PSI. The other issue is that you may not be allowing enough of the air to get out or you are stretching the grip too much and then ‘un-stretching’ the grip. Essentially, making the grip long and then shortening it up.

 

Like others said, in the end you can always add tape and a little solvent and blow it back on. I would just watch the amount of PSI you are using and your technique.

 

 

 

 

RH

[nbg352]

Golf Pride itself recommends NOT using air to install their grips.

So........

[nbg352]

Golfworks / Maltby regripping instructions:

 

http://www.golfworks.ca/images/art/2008Regrip.pdf

[augustgolf]

Golf Pride itself recommends NOT using air to install their grips.

So........

 

"And I can text and drive without any problems".....

[rainycitygolf]

Probably a stretched out grip. I've encountered the same thing with GP grips that bulged. The air stretched it out. The only grip I feel comfortable using with air now is pure.