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Driver Fitting


jpdx

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Did a search but didn't find the answer to what I was looking for.

 

A little Background:

 

irons/wedges fitted. adjustments to lie were made to irons, the wedges required no adjustments.

 

thought about how my hybrid, wood, and driver are not fitted.

 

My questions: what is involved in a driver fitting? Is the process the same as iron fitting or totally different? I guess I'm asking to find out what to expect. I don't know how the lie could change by bending the driver head like irons...I figure it'd snap or something. Am I just going to hit this head or that head with this shaft and that shaft trying to optimize the numbers...??

 

I'm still learning so Thanks in advance.

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It's very similar except you don't hit off a lie board. You should really get fit on gc quad or trackman though as face angle (required) is really important.

 

hmm.... is a driver fitting really going to help much? I'm skeptical, but considering it because I see value from my iron fitting...I'm not sure I'm consistent enough to measure face angle of the driver, but then again, I feel the same with the irons, and a fitting improved it.

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A proper driver fitting is equally beneficial. If you manage to identify the right shaft (weight, bend profile, flex) and shaft length, you will increase your chances of hitting the sweet spot, regardless of your current ability. If you marry up improved consistency with the right head design (loft, face angle, cg location, weight) you will improve your chances of hitting your longest, straightest drives.

 

Definitely worthwhile but only in the hands of someone who really knows what they are doing.

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Check out Tom Wishon's articles here on GolfWRX and his books on Amazon (there's one specifically for drivers) for what goes into a comprehensive fitting and why it matters. From one of his books I recall there were a dozen or so aspects to a comprehensive fitting. Also, there are no industry standards for flex so Callaway's "stiff" might be Mizuno's "regular."

 

From his website...

 

Tip number one; the very best driver for every golfer is never selected by its brand or model name or model number. It is chosen by its custom clubfitting specifications and how those individual factors are matched to the golfer’s size, strength, athletic ability and most of all, to their swing characteristics. Below, are 3 key specifications for proper Driver fitting, and a couple more for good measure.

Driver Length

It’s time to be blunt. The standard driver length of 45.5 to 46.5 inches offered by the majority of golf club companies is too long for the majority of golfers and will prevent at least 75% of all golfers from achieving their maximum potential for distance and accuracy. For men with an average to fast tempo with an outside/in swing path, 44” should be the maximum length; women, 42.5” to 43” should be the limit. There’s a very good reason the average driver length on the US PGA Tour since 2005 has been 44.5” and not 45.5” to 46.5”.

Driver Loft

Driver loft must be matched in combination to the golfer’s swing speed and their angle of attack into the ball. The slower the swing speed and the more downward the angle of attack, the higher the loft of the driver has to be for maximum distance – and vice versa.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Driver Face Angle

Few drivers sold off the shelf offer options in the face angle to reduce the golfer’s tendency to slice or hook the ball. There is no better way to reduce a slice than to fit the golfer with a more closed face angle in the driver/fairway woods. For more severe slices, the golfer can be fit with a driver head with both a closed face and an offset hosel design.

The rule of thumb for face angle change? At a carry distance of 200 yards, each one degree more closed the face angle is than the golfer’s current face angle represents a reduction in the slice of about 4 to 5 yards.

 

And a Couple More for Covering Your Golfers’ Driver Fitting Needs . . .

 

Total Weight and Swingweight

The stronger the golfer physically and the more aggressively they swing, the heavier the total weight and swingweight will need to be. The opposite is true for the weaker and much less aggressive swinging player. Matching the “weights” of the driver to the golfer’s swing strength and aggressiveness is critical for swing tempo consistency and the highest incidence of on-center impacts.

Shaft

Here’s the facts about the shaft. While the weight, the overall flex and the stiffness bend profile of the shaft has to be fit properly to all golfers, the shaft flex and bend profile are more important for golfers with a late release of the wrist-c0ck angle in the downswing than for golfers with an earlier release.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Edited to eliminate chart which didn't copy correctly.

Honma Beres 10.5*
Jones/Ortiz 4 wood 17*
Adams Idea Black CB2 irons 26, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45*
Callaway MD3 S grind 52, 56, C grind 60, PM grind 64*
Tom Slighter Custom Needle 450g, 3* loft, 74* lie (2006)
Tom Slighter Needle 360g, 4* loft, 72* lie (2012, backup)
 

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Check out Tom Wishon's articles here on GolfWRX and his books on Amazon (there's one specifically for drivers) for what goes into a comprehensive fitting and why it matters. From one of his books I recall there were a dozen or so aspects to a comprehensive fitting. Also, there are no industry standards for flex so Callaway's "stiff" might be Mizuno's "regular."

 

From his website...

 

Tip number one; the very best driver for every golfer is never selected by its brand or model name or model number. It is chosen by its custom clubfitting specifications and how those individual factors are matched to the golfer’s size, strength, athletic ability and most of all, to their swing characteristics. Below, are 3 key specifications for proper Driver fitting, and a couple more for good measure.

Driver Length

It’s time to be blunt. The standard driver length of 45.5 to 46.5 inches offered by the majority of golf club companies is too long for the majority of golfers and will prevent at least 75% of all golfers from achieving their maximum potential for distance and accuracy. For men with an average to fast tempo with an outside/in swing path, 44” should be the maximum length; women, 42.5” to 43” should be the limit. There’s a very good reason the average driver length on the US PGA Tour since 2005 has been 44.5” and not 45.5” to 46.5”.

Driver Loft

Driver loft must be matched in combination to the golfer’s swing speed and their angle of attack into the ball. The slower the swing speed and the more downward the angle of attack, the higher the loft of the driver has to be for maximum distance – and vice versa.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Driver Face Angle

Few drivers sold off the shelf offer options in the face angle to reduce the golfer’s tendency to slice or hook the ball. There is no better way to reduce a slice than to fit the golfer with a more closed face angle in the driver/fairway woods. For more severe slices, the golfer can be fit with a driver head with both a closed face and an offset hosel design.

The rule of thumb for face angle change? At a carry distance of 200 yards, each one degree more closed the face angle is than the golfer’s current face angle represents a reduction in the slice of about 4 to 5 yards.

 

And a Couple More for Covering Your Golfers’ Driver Fitting Needs . . .

 

Total Weight and Swingweight

The stronger the golfer physically and the more aggressively they swing, the heavier the total weight and swingweight will need to be. The opposite is true for the weaker and much less aggressive swinging player. Matching the “weights” of the driver to the golfer’s swing strength and aggressiveness is critical for swing tempo consistency and the highest incidence of on-center impacts.

Shaft

Here’s the facts about the shaft. While the weight, the overall flex and the stiffness bend profile of the shaft has to be fit properly to all golfers, the shaft flex and bend profile are more important for golfers with a late release of the wrist-c0ck angle in the downswing than for golfers with an earlier release.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Edited to eliminate chart which didn't copy correctly.

 

Just about exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

 

The articles you speak of....article on the site or forum?

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^ Many of this is in threads he's started or contributed to on the forum.

 

FWIW, many pro's aren't even playing 45'' drivers any more. Driver fitting is going to help you maximize your potential, even if you aren't super consistent yet. Also when I say face angle... I mean do you deliver the club open faced, closed, etc. Say you hit the ball with a face 3-4* open and you come in to out... You'll be hitting push fades all day. A good fitter will see this and try to get you into a club that has a face that's neutral to maybe even a touch closed to help straighten out your flight or a head that's got a touch more draw bias to it. Tom preaches about the important of face angle for a fitting, and not many fitters really key in on this.

 

 

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Just realize that a "fitting" means different things to different people. If you just go to a retail store, the majority of those factors referenced by Tom's article will NOT be covered in the fitting. You'll only hit stock length shafts (which are generally way too long), and while you might be able to try different shaft weights, they wont cover swing weight at all, and then most sales folks are pretty clueless when it comes to face angle and what the hosel adjustments really do, and finally, the only generally have standard size grips to dem (lie angle isn't nearly as important with the driver as it is with the irons). So unless you can find a quality fitter to go see, you might actually be better off starting to do some self tests on your own.

 

This tutorial will help you through that process and covers some of the more important aspects of fittings - specifically playing length, shaft weight, and swing weight. And all you need is some lead tape and foot powder spray and driving range.

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...up-diy-fitting/

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Excellent info above. One thing I would like to mention though is the importance of asking the golfer whether they allow the club to sole out naturally when they take their grip OR if they hover the club and physically AIM the culbface when taking their grip. Those who hover the club and aim the face will not benefit from FA fitting nearly as much as those who allow the club to sole out.

 

BT

 

Dr#1 Cobra Speedzone 10.5 – HZRDUS Yellow HC 65 TX @ 46”
Dr#2 Mizuno STZ 220 9.5 (10.5) - HZRDUS Smoke IM10 65 Low TX @ 46"

Dr#3 Cobra Aerojet 10.5 - HZRDUS Blue Smoke RDX 65 TX (Ion Patriot) @ 46"

Mizuno ST190 15 - HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 43"
Mizuno STZ 220 18- HZRDUS Smoke Yellow 70 TS @ 42"
Cobra Limit3d 4-PW - Recoil Proto 125 F4 - GM Roo Midsize
Cobra MIM Wedges 52, 56 & 60 – stock KBS Hi-Rev @ 35.5”

Odyssey V-Line Stroke Lab 33.5"
Grips - Grip Master Classic Wrap Midsize

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One thing I would like to mention though is the importance of asking the golfer whether they allow the club to sole out naturally when they take their grip OR if they hover the club and physically AIM the culbface when taking their grip. Those who hover the club and aim the face will not benefit from FA fitting nearly as much as those who allow the club to sole out.

 

Well, I certainly agree that some people can be more (or less) sensitive to face angle than others and it's important to identify that level of sensitivity - but I think that's a bit of an oversimplification and not as reliable an indicator as some people would like to think. It's much more reliable to test the players sensitivity to face angle dynamically. Open up the face angle to the max - hit a few balls, then close it down the the most and hit a few more - then see what happens to the ball flight. If you see a change in left/right ball flight - then it's something you need to fit.

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^ Many of this is in threads he's started or contributed to on the forum.

 

FWIW, many pro's aren't even playing 45'' drivers any more. Driver fitting is going to help you maximize your potential, even if you aren't super consistent yet. Also when I say face angle... I mean do you deliver the club open faced, closed, etc. Say you hit the ball with a face 3-4* open and you come in to out... You'll be hitting push fades all day. A good fitter will see this and try to get you into a club that has a face that's neutral to maybe even a touch closed to help straighten out your flight or a head that's got a touch more draw bias to it. Tom preaches about the important of face angle for a fitting, and not many fitters really key in on this.

 

straight push and massive draw are my main "misses". slice is rare but happens occasionally when I'm rushing and trying to finish a bucket or beat the daylight on a twilight round on 17/18. I will definitely make sure they track face angle when I schedule my appt. if they don't track face angle or shaft length I'm thinking it's a red flag to find a different fitter?

 

Excellent info above. One thing I would like to mention though is the importance of asking the golfer whether they allow the club to sole out naturally when they take their grip OR if they hover the club and physically AIM the culbface when taking their grip. Those who hover the club and aim the face will not benefit from FA fitting nearly as much as those who allow the club to sole out.

 

BT

 

I lightly sole out the driver naturally.

 

Just realize that a "fitting" means different things to different people. If you just go to a retail store, the majority of those factors referenced by Tom's article will NOT be covered in the fitting. You'll only hit stock length shafts (which are generally way too long), and while you might be able to try different shaft weights, they wont cover swing weight at all, and then most sales folks are pretty clueless when it comes to face angle and what the hosel adjustments really do, and finally, the only generally have standard size grips to dem (lie angle isn't nearly as important with the driver as it is with the irons). So unless you can find a quality fitter to go see, you might actually be better off starting to do some self tests on your own.

 

This tutorial will help you through that process and covers some of the more important aspects of fittings - specifically playing length, shaft weight, and swing weight. And all you need is some lead tape and foot powder spray and driving range.

 

http://www.golfwrx.c...up-diy-fitting/

 

absolutely 100% my thought as well. I would've never thought about a driver fitting until joining up here. as I've read and learned more, I have found the above to be true regarding retail store fitting (like a golf galaxy or dicks type store). I'm working on finding a fitter, that will consider playing length, shaft weight, and swing weight - and face angle as mentioned above.

 

I read though the first post of the tutorial and my next range trip will be focused on recording that where I'm striking. great DIY thread and that'll give me a starting point. I'm going to check out a spot that has some good reviews and will keep this info in mind. Small shop guy invited me in to hit some balls and I might take him up on the offer, which spurred starting this thread.

 

thanks for all the input!

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Check out Tom Wishon's articles here on GolfWRX and his books on Amazon (there's one specifically for drivers) for what goes into a comprehensive fitting and why it matters. From one of his books I recall there were a dozen or so aspects to a comprehensive fitting. Also, there are no industry standards for flex so Callaway's "stiff" might be Mizuno's "regular."

 

From his website...

 

Tip number one; the very best driver for every golfer is never selected by its brand or model name or model number. It is chosen by its custom clubfitting specifications and how those individual factors are matched to the golfer's size, strength, athletic ability and most of all, to their swing characteristics. Below, are 3 key specifications for proper Driver fitting, and a couple more for good measure.

Driver Length

It's time to be blunt. The standard driver length of 45.5 to 46.5 inches offered by the majority of golf club companies is too long for the majority of golfers and will prevent at least 75% of all golfers from achieving their maximum potential for distance and accuracy. For men with an average to fast tempo with an outside/in swing path, 44" should be the maximum length; women, 42.5" to 43" should be the limit. There's a very good reason the average driver length on the US PGA Tour since 2005 has been 44.5" and not 45.5" to 46.5".

Driver Loft

Driver loft must be matched in combination to the golfer's swing speed and their angle of attack into the ball. The slower the swing speed and the more downward the angle of attack, the higher the loft of the driver has to be for maximum distance and vice versa.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Driver Face Angle

Few drivers sold off the shelf offer options in the face angle to reduce the golfer's tendency to slice or hook the ball. There is no better way to reduce a slice than to fit the golfer with a more closed face angle in the driver/fairway woods. For more severe slices, the golfer can be fit with a driver head with both a closed face and an offset hosel design.

The rule of thumb for face angle change? At a carry distance of 200 yards, each one degree more closed the face angle is than the golfer's current face angle represents a reduction in the slice of about 4 to 5 yards.

 

And a Couple More for Covering Your Golfers' Driver Fitting Needs . . .

 

Total Weight and Swingweight

The stronger the golfer physically and the more aggressively they swing, the heavier the total weight and swingweight will need to be. The opposite is true for the weaker and much less aggressive swinging player. Matching the "weights" of the driver to the golfer's swing strength and aggressiveness is critical for swing tempo consistency and the highest incidence of on-center impacts.

Shaft

Here's the facts about the shaft. While the weight, the overall flex and the stiffness bend profile of the shaft has to be fit properly to all golfers, the shaft flex and bend profile are more important for golfers with a late release of the wrist-c0ck angle in the downswing than for golfers with an earlier release.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Edited to eliminate chart which didn't copy correctly.

 

Just about exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

 

The articles you speak of....article on the site or forum?

 

They were in the Opinion & Analysis section two or three years ago. Just click on the O&A heading (current articles will appear), click on the magnifying glass icon off to the right and type in his name.

Honma Beres 10.5*
Jones/Ortiz 4 wood 17*
Adams Idea Black CB2 irons 26, 29, 33, 37, 41, 45*
Callaway MD3 S grind 52, 56, C grind 60, PM grind 64*
Tom Slighter Custom Needle 450g, 3* loft, 74* lie (2006)
Tom Slighter Needle 360g, 4* loft, 72* lie (2012, backup)
 

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