Anser shaft removal

[sbboudreau]

So I restored a PING Anser Manganese Bronze, shaft off. Does anyone know the era of this putter?

 

This is the stamp on the back.

KARSTEN

PHOENIX, AZ 85029

MADE IN U.S.A.

Left side bump, PING ® right side bump, ® ANSER

 

I'm totally assuming it is epoxied in, nope. Very cool how it is held in. The shaft is almost a press fit and then a steel ball is lowered down the shaft and I will assume it is hammered into place or the head is heated and the shaft is submersed in liquid nitrogen then placed in the hosel. Very cool stuff indeed.

 

No machines were used during this restoration, only a handful of files, sandpaper, Barkeepers Friend and a suction swivel vise on the kitchen table, 40+ hours total. I left it with a brushed finish to avoid glare, also left the deepest scars because I did not want to alter the weight to much. Finish weight head only was 332g, total weight 506g, 35 3/4" E-2 swingweight, nice heavy Putter. I wanted to add the two pictures of before restoration, the quality is rather poor but they are all I have.

[Swingingk]

That looks very nice. I like how you've polished off the rough but left a smooth satin. A nice satin in soft material is not easy to do and yours looks great. Did you coat it with thinned lacquer or something like that to help keep the finish? Left raw I would imagine it would tarnish quickly.

 

Well done.

[Bigarch]

Looks fantastic. Excellent work!

[TimV]

So I restored a PING Anser Manganese Bronze, shaft off. Does anyone know the era of this putter?

 

This is the stamp on the back.

KARSTEN

PHOENIX, AZ 85029

MADE IN U.S.A.

Left side bump, PING ® right side bump, ® ANSER

 

I'm totally assuming it is epoxied in, nope. Very cool how it is held in. The shaft is almost a press fit and then a steel ball is lowered down the shaft and I will assume it is hammered into place or the head is heated and the shaft is submersed in liquid nitrogen then placed in the hosel. Very cool stuff indeed.

 

No machines were used during this restoration, only a handful of files, sandpaper, Barkeepers Friend and a suction swivel vise on the kitchen table, 40+ hours total.

(Pictures deleted)

I left it with a brushed finish to avoid glare, also left the deepest scars because I did not want to alter the weight to much. Finish weight head only was 332g, total weight 506g, 35 3/4" E-2 swingweight, nice heavy Putter.

 

Awesome work!

(I would send you several of my putters but I'm sure I can't afford you.)

[sbboudreau]

That looks very nice. I like how you've polished off the rough but left a smooth satin. A nice satin in soft material is not easy to do and yours looks great. Did you coat it with thinned lacquer or something like that to help keep the finish? Left raw I would imagine it would tarnish quickly.

 

Well done.

Thank you. Raw, I like the aged look and when the finish starts out nice the patina is awesome. It was quite banged up when I got it, that's the only reason I attempted to restore it. I left some of the deeper casting finish and inside the cavity. Working on old/older clubs really is enjoyable, I don't like to alter most clubs, but if necessary then I'll do what makes it look better.

[sbboudreau]

Looks fantastic. Excellent work!

Thank you.

[HitaHouse]

Looks great, nice job on the refinish. I still have the old Ping Anser Dalehead that I bought in high school. My memory suggests that this is an Anser remake from possibly the 80s or 90s. The early ones will have different text and 85029 zip codes followed by ones with 85020 and 85068. This one came after to highlight the 029 zip.

[sbboudreau]

Looks great, nice job on the refinish. I still have the old Ping Anser Dalehead that I bought in high school. My memory suggests that this is an Anser remake from possibly the 80s or 90s. The early ones will have different text and 85029 zip codes followed by ones with 85020 and 85068. This one came after to highlight the 029 zip.

Thanks for the compliment. What zip code is the early ones?

[Fellaheen51]

From sources available on the internet, identifying the age of Ping putter by zip code. Yours is a reissue from 2000 forward.

You will see people selling Ping Putters and sometimes irons and identifying the entire zip code or the last three digits. The zip codes help to identify a time period that the club was manufactured/introduced. Below is a listing of the location, zip code, and time period that clubs were produced.

The Scottsdale AZ address with 85282 zip code was from 1961-1966.

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code from mid-1966 through 1967.

The Phoenix AZ address with 85020 zip code from 1968-1973.

The Phoenix AZ address with 85068 zip code from 1973 to 2000.

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code (again) from 2000 to present-day. (The 85029 zip code is the zip code for the physical street address of Ping Headquarters, which it has been at since mid-1966)

All the other zip codes were for P.O. Box addresses

[birly-shirly]

Looks great, and you're lucky with the weight. 330g is very decent for that style - lots were quite a bit lighter.

 

I'm curious - did you get the head off to work on and weigh the head? If so, how?

[sbboudreau]

From sources available on the internet, identifying the age of Ping putter by zip code. Yours is a reissue from 2000 forward.

You will see people selling Ping Putters and sometimes irons and identifying the entire zip code or the last three digits. The zip codes help to identify a time period that the club was manufactured/introduced. Below is a listing of the location, zip code, and time period that clubs were produced.

The Scottsdale AZ address with 85282 zip code was from 1961-1966.

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code from mid-1966 through 1967.

The Phoenix AZ address with 85020 zip code from 1968-1973.

The Phoenix AZ address with 85068 zip code from 1973 to 2000.

The Phoenix AZ address with 85029 zip code (again) from 2000 to present-day. (The 85029 zip code is the zip code for the physical street address of Ping Headquarters, which it has been at since mid-1966)

All the other zip codes were for P.O. Box addresses

Thanks Fella, this will be copied and placed in my Important Golf info file.

[sbboudreau]

Looks great, and you're lucky with the weight. 330g is very decent for that style - lots were quite a bit lighter.

 

I'm curious - did you get the head off to work on and weigh the head? If so, how?

Thank you for the compliment. I worked on the head while it was on the shaft allowing me to rotate it on my vise for work angles. I did get the shaft off by heating it quite hot with a good heat gun on high, very difficult, to remove the shaft after continuous heating and placing between my feet, work shoes on of course and grabbing the grip with two hand and twisting. At one point I was fearful of breaking the shaft. I removed the shaft to restore the hosel flat were the shaft goes in, it was pretty beat up and I couldn’t leave it like that. I had to lightly grind the shaft to reduce its size by about .005 of an inch to allow me to use epoxy to remount the shaft.

[birly-shirly]

Nicely done. Standard operating procedure back in the day was to drill out the underside of the hosel and dislodge the ball bearing with a punch. Hardly ideal, though understandable if you are working by the hour.

 

I have heard advice that the method you used can be eased if you can first deepfreeze the hosel before applying heat. I can't vouch for that method though - as to try it would require either a bigger freezer than I have, or cutting the shaft which I'd rather save.

 

Do you think you would tackle this again? Or is once enough?

[sbboudreau]

Nicely done. Standard operating procedure back in the day was to drill out the underside of the hosel and dislodge the ball bearing with a punch. Hardly ideal, though understandable if you are working by the hour.

 

I have heard advice that the method you used can be eased if you can first deepfreeze the hosel before applying heat. I can't vouch for that method though - as to try it would require either a bigger freezer than I have, or cutting the shaft which I'd rather save.

 

Do you think you would tackle this again? Or is once enough?

If the opportunity arises absolutely, but now that I know how these shafts are held in I may try Liquid Wrench also. This was an enjoyable experience. When I say I enjoy restoring old clubs it is from the heart. Quite satisfying when you take a beat up club, any club and bring it back to near new condition.

[HitaHouse]

I experimented with removing Ping putter shafts a while ago and came up with a dry ice solution.

 

I posted about it here: http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1381212-removing-a-ping-putter-shaft/page__hl__%2Banser+%2Bdry+%2Bice

 

You are correct that there is a ball bearing holding the shaft in place. The concept of getting the bearing cold and the hosel warm does seem to be the correct approach. I tried the freezer approach but it is in the freezer for several hours and then you just have one attempt to remove the head.

[sbboudreau]

I experimented with removing Ping putter shafts a while ago and came up with a dry ice solution.

 

I posted about it here: http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/1381212-removing-a-ping-putter-shaft/page__hl__%2Banser+%2Bdry+%2Bice

 

You are correct that there is a ball bearing holding the shaft in place. The concept of getting the bearing cold and the hosel warm does seem to be the correct approach. I tried the freezer approach but it is in the freezer for several hours and then you just have one attempt to remove the head.

I read the thread an all the responses. If you read the above post here all I did was heat with a good Sears Hi/Low heat Gun on Hi and put it between my feet, work boots on of course and twist with two hands. Three attempts and increased heating time between each attempt and it cam right out. Absolutely no evidence of epoxy. As I said I think if I need to do another I will also use liquid wrench. I can’t believe PING drilled that guys hosel. Some circumstances PING and Co. are idiots and extremely rude, I speak from first hand experience.

[stixman]

I had a Ping, a B60, which I drilled out from underneath!

 

Before you al condemn me, it was a head only with the shaft sheered off at neck level. Drill, punch and reseal with a mix of epoxy and aluminium powder. Hard to see the botch.

[birly-shirly]

Stix, you're allowed to drill out the ball bearing because you didn't put it in there in the first place. Ping doesn't get that dispensation!

[Shallowface]

I experimented with removing Ping putter shafts a while ago and came up with a dry ice solution.

 

I posted about it here: http://www.golfwrx.c...anser +dry +ice

 

You are correct that there is a ball bearing holding the shaft in place. The concept of getting the bearing cold and the hosel warm does seem to be the correct approach. I tried the freezer approach but it is in the freezer for several hours and then you just have one attempt to remove the head.

I read the thread an all the responses. If you read the above post here all I did was heat with a good Sears Hi/Low heat Gun on Hi and put it between my feet, work boots on of course and twist with two hands. Three attempts and increased heating time between each attempt and it cam right out. Absolutely no evidence of epoxy. As I said I think if I need to do another I will also use liquid wrench. I can’t believe PING drilled that guys hosel. Some circumstances PING and Co. are idiots and extremely rude, I speak from first hand experience.

 

They were great to me in the past but some recent inquiries I made about their older products were met with some degree of disdain. It's disappointing.

[sbboudreau]

I experimented with removing Ping putter shafts a while ago and came up with a dry ice solution.

 

I posted about it here: http://www.golfwrx.c...anser +dry +ice

 

You are correct that there is a ball bearing holding the shaft in place. The concept of getting the bearing cold and the hosel warm does seem to be the correct approach. I tried the freezer approach but it is in the freezer for several hours and then you just have one attempt to remove the head.

I read the thread an all the responses. If you read the above post here all I did was heat with a good Sears Hi/Low heat Gun on Hi and put it between my feet, work boots on of course and twist with two hands. Three attempts and increased heating time between each attempt and it cam right out. Absolutely no evidence of epoxy. As I said I think if I need to do another I will also use liquid wrench. I can’t believe PING drilled that guys hosel. Some circumstances PING and Co. are idiots and extremely rude, I speak from first hand experience.

 

They were great to me in the past but some recent inquiries I made about their older products were met with some degree of disdain. It's disappointing.

It seems that if your not inquiring about NEW equipment they don’t want to spend the time to answer questions. If Karsten were alive I’ll bet my life this wouldn’t be the case. He was old school and a true craftsmen.

[sbboudreau]

I added a few before picture. Poor quality but that’s all I have. Next up my Anser3, thread coming soon.

[Shallowface]

I experimented with removing Ping putter shafts a while ago and came up with a dry ice solution.

 

I posted about it here: http://www.golfwrx.c...anser +dry +ice

 

You are correct that there is a ball bearing holding the shaft in place. The concept of getting the bearing cold and the hosel warm does seem to be the correct approach. I tried the freezer approach but it is in the freezer for several hours and then you just have one attempt to remove the head.

I read the thread an all the responses. If you read the above post here all I did was heat with a good Sears Hi/Low heat Gun on Hi and put it between my feet, work boots on of course and twist with two hands. Three attempts and increased heating time between each attempt and it cam right out. Absolutely no evidence of epoxy. As I said I think if I need to do another I will also use liquid wrench. I can’t believe PING drilled that guys hosel. Some circumstances PING and Co. are idiots and extremely rude, I speak from first hand experience.

 

They were great to me in the past but some recent inquiries I made about their older products were met with some degree of disdain. It's disappointing.

It seems that if your not inquiring about NEW equipment they don’t want to spend the time to answer questions. If Karsten were alive I’ll bet my life this wouldn’t be the case. He was old school and a true craftsmen.

 

Karsten was all about selling you the best golf clubs you ever had and selling you a set you wouldn't need to replace for a very long time, if ever. Now Ping offers clubs with chrome plating, something Karsten never would have done. They don't look good for long and need replacement sooner. A philosophical change from the past to be sure, but likley necessary for the survival of the company. The products are still among the best performers in every category.

 

Being the engineering genius he was, I always found it interesting that not only did he not invent the metal wood, but that he didn't even offer one for a good 15 years after metal woods first appeared on the scene. I distinctly remember him saying that they tested metal and graphite heads against their laminated wood products and found no advantages, an experience that many of us here can vouch for when comparing the wooden and metal clubs of that day.

 

I've been reading a great deal here lately about equipment changes we are considering as we age. It's good to keep in mind that Karsten believed in stiff shafts for everyone, including ladies. I've experimented with a few rubber hoses in recent years and the distance loss was significant for me, especially into the wind. It's something of which to beware when dealing with the salesman and the fitter.

 

I've concluded that as I age I may go with more loft in the driver. Fewer long irons replaced by more fairway woods in the classics and hybrids in the moderns. But I'm keeping my stiff shafts.

[NRJyzr]

Being the engineering genius he was, I always found it interesting that not only did he not invent the metal wood, but that he didn't even offer one for a good 15 years after metal woods first appeared on the scene. I distinctly remember him saying that they tested metal and graphite heads against their laminated wood products and found no advantages, an experience that many of us here can vouch for when comparing the wooden and metal clubs of that day.

 

I'm repeating myself, but why not? LOL

 

My longest drive of 2016 was with a Zing Blonde driver with KT-M shaft. Other drivers I used during that year were things like Fly-Z+, Covert Tour 2.0, TEE XCG7 Beta, and so on.

 

Maybe they're *still* not so bad?

[sdandrea]

I had a Ping, a B60, which I drilled out from underneath!

 

Before you al condemn me, it was a head only with the shaft sheered off at neck level. Drill, punch and reseal with a mix of epoxy and aluminium powder. Hard to see the botch.

Nice job!!!

The steel ball is a pain. I had to drill out as well, punch the ball up into the shaft and then heat/pull. I sealed the hole with JB Weld and sanded it smooth.

[Shallowface]

Being the engineering genius he was, I always found it interesting that not only did he not invent the metal wood, but that he didn't even offer one for a good 15 years after metal woods first appeared on the scene. I distinctly remember him saying that they tested metal and graphite heads against their laminated wood products and found no advantages, an experience that many of us here can vouch for when comparing the wooden and metal clubs of that day.

 

I'm repeating myself, but why not? LOL

 

My longest drive of 2016 was with a Zing Blonde driver with KT-M shaft. Other drivers I used during that year were things like Fly-Z+, Covert Tour 2.0, TEE XCG7 Beta, and so on.

 

Maybe they're *still* not so bad?

 

There's a YouTube video with Rick Shiels testing a Zing driver and an Eye2 3 wood.

 

He really enjoyed them, and his spin rates were so low that it seemed to me that if one could find the right loft and a bit longer shaft there is no reason the results wouldn't be comparable to Titanium. Maybe even better.

 

The ball does not know the material, or for that matter the brand (although that comment is more appropriate for the other sections of this site), of the club which is hitting it.

[NRJyzr]

Being the engineering genius he was, I always found it interesting that not only did he not invent the metal wood, but that he didn't even offer one for a good 15 years after metal woods first appeared on the scene. I distinctly remember him saying that they tested metal and graphite heads against their laminated wood products and found no advantages, an experience that many of us here can vouch for when comparing the wooden and metal clubs of that day.

 

I'm repeating myself, but why not? LOL

 

My longest drive of 2016 was with a Zing Blonde driver with KT-M shaft. Other drivers I used during that year were things like Fly-Z+, Covert Tour 2.0, TEE XCG7 Beta, and so on.

 

Maybe they're *still* not so bad?

 

There's a YouTube video with Rick Shiels testing a Zing driver and an Eye2 3 wood.

 

He really enjoyed them, and his spin rates were so low that it seemed to me that if one could find the right loft and a bit longer shaft there is no reason the results wouldn't be comparable to Titanium. Maybe even better.

 

The ball does not know the material, or for that matter the brand (although that comment is more appropriate for the other sections of this site), of the club which is hitting it.

 

I had seen his 1 iron video, didn't realize he'd also done a Ping laminate test. I *had* to go dig that up, LOL.

 

Was fun to watch. I see what you mean about the spin rates, that first one was 1999rpm. If you're not "bringing it," that won't stay in the air long. ;)

 

For what little it's worth, the aforementioned best of mine from '16 was a moderately low to mid trajectory bullet that carried 250-ish yds and then raced out to its final distance. For it to behave as it did, I must have hit it with a fair bit of spin. I don't remember the ball I was using, it could have been an FG Tour or a ZStar.

[Bad9]

I had a Ping, a B60, which I drilled out from underneath!

 

Before you al condemn me, it was a head only with the shaft sheered off at neck level. Drill, punch and reseal with a mix of epoxy and aluminium powder. Hard to see the botch.

 

Since the shaft was already broken you should have used a Dremel with a course grinding stone(or two) and ground the ball bearing enough to get it out. The ball is pretty soft and it took me about 15 miunutes and two stones. No damage at all to the clubhead.

[stixman]

I had a Ping, a B60, which I drilled out from underneath!

 

Before you al condemn me, it was a head only with the shaft sheered off at neck level. Drill, punch and reseal with a mix of epoxy and aluminium powder. Hard to see the botch.

 

Since the shaft was already broken you should have used a Dremel with a course grinding stone(or two) and ground the ball bearing enough to get it out. The ball is pretty soft and it took me about 15 miunutes and two stones. No damage at all to the clubhead.

 

I am suitably admonished...there is no health in me, miserable sinner!