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Lie Boards for fitting. Are they really worthless?


mesegrn

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I use both a lie board and a dry erase marker to get a starting point and then dial the person I'm fitting in through trial and error and hitting a lot of shots.

 

It also depends upon skill level. If I have a better ball striker I like to get them dialed in so that the turf interaction is correct where if I have a high handicapper with a consistent miss I'll err on the side of helping correct the miss.

 

I've got a portable l/l machine which is an extremely valuable asset when it comes to dialing clubs in outdoors on real turf.

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Howard, What do you think about the Mizuno fitting iron? I found one on Ebay for $10 and bought it. I think I will work with it before I build my irons.

 

The lie board consept dont work, i thought ive made that clear

 

Last time we talk it was about me going to +1/2 inch over on my irons because I was hitting it near the toe and thought I might need a longer iron. The fitting club as you know goes up to +1inch and -1inch. I was going more for length and face contact with your sticker. Nobody said anything about a lie board, so don't assume that's were I was going. I Know you post on here and answer lots of questions and we appreciate it, but come on man. You sound like my Dad! :)

 

Sorry mac, topic on this tread is lie angles, and Mizuno have a head with sole engravings you can read directly when using a lie board, i was convnced that was the club you asked about.

 

I never heard of, or saw the club you talk about, so i cant make any comment on it.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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I use both a lie board and a dry erase marker to get a starting point and then dial the person I'm fitting in through trial and error and hitting a lot of shots.

 

It also depends upon skill level. If I have a better ball striker I like to get them dialed in so that the turf interaction is correct where if I have a high handicapper with a consistent miss I'll err on the side of helping correct the miss.

 

I've got a portable l/l machine which is an extremely valuable asset when it comes to dialing clubs in outdoors on real turf.

 

You have a portable bending unit that you take out to the driving range? Would be interesting to see a picture of that if you get the chance

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I use both a lie board and a dry erase marker to get a starting point and then dial the person I'm fitting in through trial and error and hitting a lot of shots.

 

It also depends upon skill level. If I have a better ball striker I like to get them dialed in so that the turf interaction is correct where if I have a high handicapper with a consistent miss I'll err on the side of helping correct the miss.

 

I've got a portable l/l machine which is an extremely valuable asset when it comes to dialing clubs in outdoors on real turf.

 

You have a portable bending unit that you take out to the driving range? Would be interesting to see a picture of that if you get the chance

 

It's just a Mitchell Steelclub machine that I bought the trailer hitch mount for. Mitchell doesn't offer it anymore but they make a mount that attaches to a golf cart.

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Howard, What do you think about the Mizuno fitting iron? I found one on Ebay for $10 and bought it. I think I will work with it before I build my irons.

 

The lie board consept dont work, i thought ive made that clear

 

Last time we talk it was about me going to +1/2 inch over on my irons because I was hitting it near the toe and thought I might need a longer iron. The fitting club as you know goes up to +1inch and -1inch. I was going more for length and face contact with your sticker. Nobody said anything about a lie board, so don't assume that's were I was going. I Know you post on here and answer lots of questions and we appreciate it, but come on man. You sound like my Dad! :)

 

Sorry mac, topic on this tread is lie angles, and Mizuno have a head with sole engravings you can read directly when using a lie board, i was convnced that was the club you asked about.

 

I never heard of, or saw the club you talk about, so i cant make any comment on it.

 

That is the club I'm talking about, but I'm more interested in the length aspect first and then I'm going to use your tape and my contact on the face for the lie adjustments.

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Howard, What do you think about the Mizuno fitting iron? I found one on Ebay for $10 and bought it. I think I will work with it before I build my irons.

 

The lie board consept dont work, i thought ive made that clear

 

Last time we talk it was about me going to +1/2 inch over on my irons because I was hitting it near the toe and thought I might need a longer iron. The fitting club as you know goes up to +1inch and -1inch. I was going more for length and face contact with your sticker. Nobody said anything about a lie board, so don't assume that's were I was going. I Know you post on here and answer lots of questions and we appreciate it, but come on man. You sound like my Dad! :)

 

Sorry mac, topic on this tread is lie angles, and Mizuno have a head with sole engravings you can read directly when using a lie board, i was convnced that was the club you asked about.

 

I never heard of, or saw the club you talk about, so i cant make any comment on it.

 

That is the club I'm talking about, but I'm more interested in the length aspect first and then I'm going to use your tape and my contact on the face for the lie adjustments.

 

Its 8 years since i saw it, and cant recall it had adjustable shaft lenght...

 

Try it off and se what it tells, but be aware of that the club should both have the same lenght, total wgt and balance as your planned players to make it right,so check and adjust if needed. All those 3 are of urgent importance for impact quality

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Howard, What do you think about the Mizuno fitting iron? I found one on Ebay for $10 and bought it. I think I will work with it before I build my irons.

 

The lie board consept dont work, i thought ive made that clear

 

Last time we talk it was about me going to +1/2 inch over on my irons because I was hitting it near the toe and thought I might need a longer iron. The fitting club as you know goes up to +1inch and -1inch. I was going more for length and face contact with your sticker. Nobody said anything about a lie board, so don't assume that's were I was going. I Know you post on here and answer lots of questions and we appreciate it, but come on man. You sound like my Dad! :)

 

Sorry mac, topic on this tread is lie angles, and Mizuno have a head with sole engravings you can read directly when using a lie board, i was convnced that was the club you asked about.

 

I never heard of, or saw the club you talk about, so i cant make any comment on it.

 

That is the club I'm talking about, but I'm more interested in the length aspect first and then I'm going to use your tape and my contact on the face for the lie adjustments.

 

Its 8 years since i saw it, and cant recall it had adjustable shaft lenght...

 

Try it off and se what it tells, but be aware of that the club should both have the same lenght, total wgt and balance as your planned players to make it right,so check and adjust if needed. Those 3 are the most important parameters for impact quality

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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Its 8 years since i saw it, and cant recall it had adjustable shaft lenght...

 

Try it off and se what it tells, but be aware of that the club should both have the same lenght, total wgt and balance as your planned players to make it right,so check and adjust if needed. All those 3 are of urgent importance for impact quality

 

That Mizuno fitting iron with the lines on the bottom was essentially worthless. It felt terrible and it had a long grip on it where you were supposed to choke down on it to get your desired playing length. I think one of the courses I play at still has one. If I remember I'll take a picture to remind you what it was.

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Its 8 years since i saw it, and cant recall it had adjustable shaft lenght...

 

Try it off and se what it tells, but be aware of that the club should both have the same lenght, total wgt and balance as your planned players to make it right,so check and adjust if needed. All those 3 are of urgent importance for impact quality

 

That Mizuno fitting iron with the lines on the bottom was essentially worthless. It felt terrible and it had a long grip on it where you were supposed to choke down on it to get your desired playing length. I think one of the courses I play at still has one. If I remember I'll take a picture to remind you what it was.

 

Here is a lefty model for sale on ebay.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mizuno-Lie-Fitting-Iron-Misuno-Fit-S-Flex-Left-Handed-/332306962130

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Its 8 years since i saw it, and cant recall it had adjustable shaft lenght...

 

Try it off and se what it tells, but be aware of that the club should both have the same lenght, total wgt and balance as your planned players to make it right,so check and adjust if needed. All those 3 are of urgent importance for impact quality

 

That Mizuno fitting iron with the lines on the bottom was essentially worthless. It felt terrible and it had a long grip on it where you were supposed to choke down on it to get your desired playing length. I think one of the courses I play at still has one. If I remember I'll take a picture to remind you what it was.

 

Here is a lefty model for sale on ebay.

 

https://www.ebay.com...d-/332306962130

 

That's the one I bought in a right handed model. I'm still curious to see if it helps with my length issues.

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Thats the head i remember from Michell Golf Equipment institute. We measured it, and it was 1* upright vs its specs, and a school example of what happens when we hit off from a hard surface like a lieboard is.

 

Add that to the fact that the lie board method is misleading us in the first place, and ask could a big box store make this job right with tools like this?

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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So I used the fitting club today and for lie angles it is worthless, no difference than my test with my own clubs. I did however like the option of feeling what it was like at +1/2" and +1". I think the +1/2 feels the best and should probably go that route with my new build. As HJ said in another post, I think my toe down is due to a closing club face and I need to work on that issue. If I slow down and control my swing I can hit the center of the face even at standard length. This game is so darn fun and frustrating all of the same time. Embrace the grind! I love it!!!

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So I used the fitting club today and for lie angles it is worthless, no difference than my test with my own clubs. I did however like the option of feeling what it was like at +1/2" and +1". I think the +1/2 feels the best and should probably go that route with my new build. As HJ said in another post, I think my toe down is due to a closing club face and I need to work on that issue. If I slow down and control my swing I can hit the center of the face even at standard length. This game is so darn fun and frustrating all of the same time. Embrace the grind! I love it!!!

 

I way to use equipment specs to help out with to fast face closing is to look on grip size for the lowest hand, or simply how sharp taper the grip has.

 

The sharper this taper is, the easier it is to close up to much. If you play GP new decade, try MCC +4, or use my suggenstion for asymmetrical build up.

 

Scroll down a few posts, and you will find it with photo illustrations etc.

 

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/913717-building-up-a-grip/

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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I was fitted last year, and the Ping fitter had me warm up, then used the lie board and hitting balls to figure it out. I thought I would be flat, but was actually 1.5 up right, yellow.

 

It’s quite possible that you do need a flatter lie angle but the lie board shows that you need upright lies.

 

If you strike the shot slightly towards the toe the head will deflect and the mark will be closer to the to on the lie tape.

 

This is why a number of knowledgeable fitters here have been suggesting lie boards are completely worthless.

 

I’m sorry to say but the fitting that you have had may well be flawed due to the use of a lie board.

 

Use the ink line (sharpie, dry erase or whiteboard marker pen) on the ball method and check your lie angles again.

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So I had an interesting thing happen today with my iron play that worked its way into my driver as well. I've talked to you guys about lies angles and fitting boards trying to get my irons straightened out. I've looked at charts for my wrist to floor, 36-37 btw. The chart says I should go +1/4 on the length. I was thinking about going +1/2 actually just as a test. I'm currently playing a set of MP4s with project X 5.5 at Mizuno standard length and lie in my irons. I have a set of Tour Issue DG S400 and another set of 5.5 for this new change in my length. So today I go to the course and about hole 4 I had a lie that required me to choke down on the club about 1/2 - 3/4 inch on the shaft, ball above my feet. I flushed the shot and hit the center of the club face. It felt so good to hit the center of the face. I've been missing near the toe for sometime now. So I decided for some reason to choke down on my next iron shot on a level lie. Flushed the shot again, center strike. I started doing this on all of my shots and was hitting flush iron shots the rest of the round. At hole 16 I choked down on my driver about an inch and felt like I could really let the driver loose. The drives I hit on the next 3 holes were in my normal spots, but it felt like I had more control and fluidity with the club. My driver is 45" so this put me around the 44" mark which the chart suggests. I'm not sure what to do at this point in the build process. Can you guys help? Do I chopped the irons 1/2 inch and the driver a full inch and adjust for swingweight? Do I keep choking down on the irons and just chop the driver?

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So I had an interesting thing happen today with my iron play that worked its way into my driver as well. I've talked to you guys about lies angles and fitting boards trying to get my irons straightened out. I've looked at charts for my wrist to floor, 36-37 btw. The chart says I should go +1/4 on the length. I was thinking about going +1/2 actually just as a test. I'm currently playing a set of MP4s with project X 5.5 at Mizuno standard length and lie in my irons. I have a set of Tour Issue DG S400 and another set of 5.5 for this new change in my length. So today I go to the course and about hole 4 I had a lie that required me to choke down on the club about 1/2 - 3/4 inch on the shaft, ball above my feet. I flushed the shot and hit the center of the club face. It felt so good to hit the center of the face. I've been missing near the toe for sometime now. So I decided for some reason to choke down on my next iron shot on a level lie. Flushed the shot again, center strike. I started doing this on all of my shots and was hitting flush iron shots the rest of the round. At hole 16 I choked down on my driver about an inch and felt like I could really let the driver loose. The drives I hit on the next 3 holes were in my normal spots, but it felt like I had more control and fluidity with the club. My driver is 45" so this put me around the 44" mark which the chart suggests. I'm not sure what to do at this point in the build process. Can you guys help? Do I chopped the irons 1/2 inch and the driver a full inch and adjust for swingweight? Do I keep choking down on the irons and just chop the driver?

 

Some players just keep it a standard play, to choke down on every club. On tour, Anthony Kim did this...and so does Brooke Henderson...currently highly ranked LPGA player.

 

Before cutting down your clubs, try to get some other test clubs that you can experiment with at shorter lengths

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Get some solid tape, and "tape off, instead of cutting off", so you get a constant grip position for your hands.

 

This way you can play full rounds with "new play lenght" for testing, and have full return in case you regret, or want to adust a tad back.

 

Get some lead tape too, and add a few gramd to see if that makes it even better or what.

 

Its no need to cut anything to dial in where to go.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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So I had an interesting thing happen today with my iron play that worked its way into my driver as well. I've talked to you guys about lies angles and fitting boards trying to get my irons straightened out. I've looked at charts for my wrist to floor, 36-37 btw. The chart says I should go +1/4 on the length. I was thinking about going +1/2 actually just as a test. I'm currently playing a set of MP4s with project X 5.5 at Mizuno standard length and lie in my irons. I have a set of Tour Issue DG S400 and another set of 5.5 for this new change in my length. So today I go to the course and about hole 4 I had a lie that required me to choke down on the club about 1/2 - 3/4 inch on the shaft, ball above my feet. I flushed the shot and hit the center of the club face. It felt so good to hit the center of the face. I've been missing near the toe for sometime now. So I decided for some reason to choke down on my next iron shot on a level lie. Flushed the shot again, center strike. I started doing this on all of my shots and was hitting flush iron shots the rest of the round. At hole 16 I choked down on my driver about an inch and felt like I could really let the driver loose. The drives I hit on the next 3 holes were in my normal spots, but it felt like I had more control and fluidity with the club. My driver is 45" so this put me around the 44" mark which the chart suggests. I'm not sure what to do at this point in the build process. Can you guys help? Do I chopped the irons 1/2 inch and the driver a full inch and adjust for swingweight? Do I keep choking down on the irons and just chop the driver?

 

 

Are you wearing a hole in your glove on the heel pad of your hand? If so it's possible that you are gripping up on your clubs too high. The butt of the club should extend slightly beyond your heel pad on your hand an 1/8" to 1/4".

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