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Maltby TS2


Popeye64

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8 minutes ago, NRJyzr said:

 

My opinion, you should switch the TS3 and TS1 IM.  The hollow clubheads are better suited for long irons, with the TS3 being a better transition to the blade TS4.

 

Interesting.  I was going off the maltby playability factor for each of the 3.  Ts3 has a much higher rating and is borderline ultra game improvement.

 

although now that I look at it, the TS4 is rated higher than the TS1 and TS1 IM

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10 minutes ago, mstuewe said:

Interesting.  I was going off the maltby playability factor for each of the 3.  Ts3 has a much higher rating and is borderline ultra game improvement.

 

although now that I look at it, the TS4 is rated higher than the TS1 and TS1 IM

 

Final MPF score isn't all that meaningful.  It's not much more than C Dimension minus Actual VCOG.

 

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The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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On 4/7/2023 at 9:32 AM, Cwebb said:

 

Not sure why the link won't work, but just go to tutleman .com.  Then in the "Golf stuff" menu, go to "impact and ball flight", then the article "all about gear effect".

 

The site you linked is just a showing an iron twisting open on toe strikes and closed on a heel strike.  It's not explaining why he thinks that any gear spin would occur with an iron.

 

Irons are traditionally flat because they don't experience nearly as much side spin from gear effect compared to woods.

 

Irons still experience gear effect, but the iron is a much smaller "gear" compared to a driver because the COG (shown as the red and white ball in the image) is much closer to the face. Plus, the larger face allows you to hit a driver much further from the COG compared to an iron.

 

In the image below, an iron would be like the yellow gear, but maybe 1/5th the size.

 

image.png.a30704c60e9aa1c8c65dfc67cf1b8a6c.png

 

 

 

 

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I keep coming back to this thread.  I'm going to order the components for a 5 iron.  If I get along with the 5 iron then I'll order components for the rest of the clubs.  I'm pretty sure it will be the TS-2.  All of the multi piece iron heads look so nice.  I'm also going to try a Maltby graphite iron shaft first.

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Mostly Wishon with a few Tour Edge Exotics, Cobra, Cleveland, and one Odyssey mixed in.

 

 

 

 

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On 4/29/2023 at 8:40 AM, ode said:

An inch longer🤔. That is fuzzy math, 3/4" to 1.25" bbgm is a difference of 1/2".  Bore depth impacts how much tip prep there is, but that can easily be solved with a longer ferrule.  Bore depth has nothing to do with finished playing length.  If we are addressing shaft flex/cpm,s I'll yield to Howard, Stuart, CWebb, etc. as to the real difference between a .75 vs. 1.25" BBGM measurement impact on flex.  

I took your advice and went straight to Stuart_G about this.  Here's his response on if I should alter how I tip the rapid tapers any differently:

 

Depends on how one was fit for that particular shaft.

 

BBGM is a bit short but the bore depth isn't really that long -  1.25" is pretty "standard" for irons so the amount over is pretty negligible.

 

But the short answer is that I'd try standard trimming for one club - leave it a 1/2" over length and test choked up that 1/2".   And use that test to see how it feels and how it plays before making any decision.

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Cleveland Hibore XL 10.5/Ventus Red 4t Core

Cleveland Launcher XL Hy-Wood 18/Rapport blue core

TEE E722 4h & 5h/KBS TGI

Maltby TC Pro IST 6h/Rapport blue core

Maltby TS3 7-Gap w/Nippon N.S. Pro 1050GH

LogicalOne 52/Corey Paul 54/Callaway Jaws Raw 58Z

TP Mills Sycamore Hakd Made, flow neck pencil shaft, 342 grams

Carbon Ringo wide-flange, slant neck, 330 grams

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7 hours ago, sm_watts said:

I took your advice and went straight to Stuart_G about this.  Here's his response on if I should alter how I tip the rapid tapers any differently:

 

Depends on how one was fit for that particular shaft.

 

BBGM is a bit short but the bore depth isn't really that long -  1.25" is pretty "standard" for irons so the amount over is pretty negligible.

 

But the short answer is that I'd try standard trimming for one club - leave it a 1/2" over length and test choked up that 1/2".   And use that test to see how it feels and how it plays before making any decision.

 

Is the idea to see how standard trimming plays and if its good, chop the excess 1/2", otherwise soft step x1 and use the shaft in the next iron?

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34 minutes ago, omegafett said:

 

Is the idea to see how standard trimming plays and if its good, chop the excess 1/2", otherwise soft step x1 and use the shaft in the next iron?

I think the idea is that you leave the extra 1/2" length on the butt end so that if you need to go back and tip trim it a little more, you have that extra length to play with.  Otherwise, if you tip trim it based on the standard trimming instructions and butt cut it to the length you want, you can't go back and tip it a little more without being under the overall length you want.  If you leave an extra 1/2" on the butt, you can play it a little while to decide if it's right for you.  If it is, then go back and cut that 1/2" off the butt to get the overall length you want.

 

That being said, I'll be using a really cheap grip on the demo club, knowing that I'll be fine tuning it after a few rounds and then put my regular grip on.

Cleveland Hibore XL 10.5/Ventus Red 4t Core

Cleveland Launcher XL Hy-Wood 18/Rapport blue core

TEE E722 4h & 5h/KBS TGI

Maltby TC Pro IST 6h/Rapport blue core

Maltby TS3 7-Gap w/Nippon N.S. Pro 1050GH

LogicalOne 52/Corey Paul 54/Callaway Jaws Raw 58Z

TP Mills Sycamore Hakd Made, flow neck pencil shaft, 342 grams

Carbon Ringo wide-flange, slant neck, 330 grams

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11 hours ago, sm_watts said:

I took your advice and went straight to Stuart_G about this.  Here's his response on if I should alter how I tip the rapid tapers any differently:

 

Depends on how one was fit for that particular shaft.

 

BBGM is a bit short but the bore depth isn't really that long -  1.25" is pretty "standard" for irons so the amount over is pretty negligible.

 

But the short answer is that I'd try standard trimming for one club - leave it a 1/2" over length and test choked up that 1/2".   And use that test to see how it feels and how it plays before making any decision.

I just made up a 5 iron with a Rapid Taper 105s. The TS3 head was soft stepped twice to get the CPM into the S flex range. Without a tip weight it was right at 300 cpm. The tip weight will drop that slightly. 

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4 hours ago, sm_watts said:

I think the idea is that you leave the extra 1/2" length on the butt end so that if you need to go back and tip trim it a little more, you have that extra length to play with.  Otherwise, if you tip trim it based on the standard trimming instructions and butt cut it to the length you want, you can't go back and tip it a little more without being under the overall length you want.  If you leave an extra 1/2" on the butt, you can play it a little while to decide if it's right for you.  If it is, then go back and cut that 1/2" off the butt to get the overall length you want.

 

That being said, I'll be using a really cheap grip on the demo club, knowing that I'll be fine tuning it after a few rounds and then put my regular grip on.

Ok interesting. I thought we all needed to soft step 1x or 2x and so adjusting the tip trim wasn't what I was thinking.

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1 hour ago, omegafett said:

Ok interesting. I thought we all needed to soft step 1x or 2x and so adjusting the tip trim wasn't what I was thinking.

Except that with parallel shafts, adjusting the tip trimming is essentially hard and soft stepping the shaft, right?

Cleveland Hibore XL 10.5/Ventus Red 4t Core

Cleveland Launcher XL Hy-Wood 18/Rapport blue core

TEE E722 4h & 5h/KBS TGI

Maltby TC Pro IST 6h/Rapport blue core

Maltby TS3 7-Gap w/Nippon N.S. Pro 1050GH

LogicalOne 52/Corey Paul 54/Callaway Jaws Raw 58Z

TP Mills Sycamore Hakd Made, flow neck pencil shaft, 342 grams

Carbon Ringo wide-flange, slant neck, 330 grams

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On 4/28/2023 at 6:35 PM, Popeye64 said:

I'm confounded as to why I play so much better with the KE4 Max irons. 

Saturday I played the TS3s.  Long course and relatively new to me. Had it going well early but couldn't sustain the round, shot an 82. 

Today playing my course which is a bit shorter but more reliant on irons I shot a 68. Whether it's confidence over the ball that they are flying straight, or knowing they help a bit if my swing gets lazy... its night an day. I really have to grind to get the TS3 to work for me. But when I'm on point they are great, even awesome. But it's work. I know it's not the shafts as they are set up identical to the KE4 Max. I keep losing them a bit short and right.  My whole game just seems to feed off the strength of the KE4s. 

On another note the TSW DRM wedges of 52 and 60 in the bag are killing it. I'm gonna post up some comparisons with the Max Wedges. 

TS3 headed to B S T. 

On a huge bummer my shipment of TS4 and TS1M heads have not left Golfworks for whatever reason. 

Have you had any comparisons between the Max Wedge and the TSW DRM?  I just bought the 56* TSW DRM.  I am having some difficulty with it.  I don't know if it's playing a quality wedge for the first time.  I'm coming off the Kirkland wedges, which I actually like, but they're 2 years old and I play a coastal course with very pebbly sand traps.  Or if I'm not used to the high bounce.  I'm hitting it either fat or popping it up.  Out of the sand I have no problem with it.  I've gone back to my Kirkland 52 or my Sim2 A wedge for the short chips or even the 20-30 yarders.

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9 hours ago, sm_watts said:

Except that with parallel shafts, adjusting the tip trimming is essentially hard and soft stepping the shaft, right?

Yes, but does depend on the brand.  For example, Nippon parallel tip shafts are still constant weight so you'd step those instead of trimming, unless you didn't want constant weight for some reason.

PING i20 10.5*

Adams a7 22*

Maltby TS3 Forged 5-9

Vokey SM7 46F, 52F, 58M

PING BeCu Anser

Srixon QST

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10 hours ago, omegafett said:

Ok interesting. I thought we all needed to soft step 1x or 2x and so adjusting the tip trim wasn't what I was thinking.

Adjusting the tip trim is basically the same thing as soft stepping. 

When trimming if you took 1/2" less off the tip vs standard tip trim you have soft stepped once. 

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1 hour ago, wantacigar said:

Have you had any comparisons between the Max Wedge and the TSW DRM?  I just bought the 56* TSW DRM.  I am having some difficulty with it.  I don't know if it's playing a quality wedge for the first time.  I'm coming off the Kirkland wedges, which I actually like, but they're 2 years old and I play a coastal course with very pebbly sand traps.  Or if I'm not used to the high bounce.  I'm hitting it either fat or popping it up.  Out of the sand I have no problem with it.  I've gone back to my Kirkland 52 or my Sim2 A wedge for the short chips or even the 20-30 yarders.

I have done direct comparisons between the two. The Max Milled are like a cheat code for wedges. Super friendly sole and generally easy to use anywhere. Very friendly for a steep swing. 

The DRM in comparison are halfway to let's say a Vokey. The sole of the DRM has a sharper leading edge but still utilizes a dual grind of V sole that extands quite a bit rearward. Though I can struggle with hitting a random fat shot with an iron, I have great confidence in the DRM. From chips on tight lies to full swings. 

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On 4/28/2023 at 11:43 AM, Popeye64 said:

KE4 Max have proven to be sensational all around good performers

I am testing out a set vs. my trusted STi2.  The sole is similar between these two but the blade profile different.  To me the Max look more like a KE4 S at address but with a STi2 grind on the sole, which improves there playability.  To my eye the STi2 look bigger at address.  Feel wise the KE4 Max wins.  On slightly higher strikes its reminiscent of the OG STi feel and the performance is really good!  A lot more testing is.needwd but so far it's +!

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Have had more than a few questions or requests on DRM vs Max Milled. 

More than a few guys can struggle with the DRM. But if you use the 'dual' sole it can be really versatile. I've recently used it at some elite courses with truly tight lies. It did fantastic. 

The Max Milled has a rocker sole and there isn't much to complain about. Simple just hit the ball, no nonsense. 

I've spent a lot of time with both and I just seem to gravitate to the DRM. Though if I was in the sand more often I would go Max Milled. From a tight grass lie it's the DRM. 

In the photos you can see how different the soles are. 

20230502_222449.jpg

20230502_222419.jpg

20230502_222408.jpg

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Ordered a TS1-im 5 iron to see how it plays. Already have a TS2 4i that I enjoy.

 

Considering trying to do the IM's in 5-7 and the TS4 for 8-GW because I prefer the gapping of the TS4 short irons and like ending with a 50* GW. Should probably bend the 7i and/or 8i a touch to blend the lofts a bit better maybe?

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4 hours ago, artist08 said:

I have a set of TS-1 and TS-2, but presently use the TS-2 (5-7) and TS-1 (8-GW) as a mixed set.  I had my clubmaker put together a TS-3 9-iron to try.  Now I’m thinking about using the KE4 max 5-iron with 6-PW TS-3.  My handicap is a 2.  What do you think?

The only thing you will need to be conscious of, is the 5° gap with the Max 5i to the TS3 6i. Both sets have a 3° gap at that iron spot. If you can work around that, you should be fine. 

As a 2 hcp there is a good chance you are not using that 5 all too often as I'm sure distance is not an issue but a strength. 

 

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5 hours ago, artist08 said:

I have a set of TS-1 and TS-2, but presently use the TS-2 (5-7) and TS-1 (8-GW) as a mixed set.  I had my clubmaker put together a TS-3 9-iron to try.  Now I’m thinking about using the KE4 max 5-iron with 6-PW TS-3.  My handicap is a 2.  What do you think?

 

Not really a good match.  The KE4 Max has a higher COG than the TS-3, which from a normal to tighter lie will require you to hit down more on the Max as compared to the TS-3.

 

Best bet in a combo set, if there is going to be a vertical COG change, is to go with a design that has a lower COG in the longer irons.

 

If you find the TS-3 9i fits you well, I'd go with them for your whole iron set

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On 4/30/2023 at 5:57 PM, bekgolf said:

I keep coming back to this thread.  I'm going to order the components for a 5 iron.  If I get along with the 5 iron then I'll order components for the rest of the clubs.  I'm pretty sure it will be the TS-2.  All of the multi piece iron heads look so nice.  I'm also going to try a Maltby graphite iron shaft first.

Love my TS-2, great feel, solid design. I hit them with Nippon shafts. The IM looks awful nice though. I’ve always been a sucker for a great looking blade. 

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16 hours ago, artist08 said:

I have a set of TS-1 and TS-2, but presently use the TS-2 (5-7) and TS-1 (8-GW) as a mixed set.  I had my clubmaker put together a TS-3 9-iron to try.  Now I’m thinking about using the KE4 max 5-iron with 6-PW TS-3.  My handicap is a 2.  What do you think?

 

As a similar handicap, I'd say just go with a full set of the TS3. Combo-ing sets has become super popular. But I think more people do it (either consciously or sub-consciously) for esoteric pride/street-cred than out of actual necessity. 

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On 5/2/2023 at 4:54 AM, Popeye64 said:

Adjusting the tip trim is basically the same thing as soft stepping. 

When trimming if you took 1/2" less off the tip vs standard tip trim you have soft stepped once. 

I understand tipping and stepping but I don’t understand the strategy here. If we need to soft step 2x (+1” tip) as you did then leaving extra butt would only help if we started from regular flex. If we start at stiff we can only soft step. So while tipping and stepping can achieve the same goal your testing process and recutting strategy is unclear to me. This is all based on the fact you’re suggesting we need 1-2x soft step.

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