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Maltby TS2


Popeye64

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1 hour ago, bogey69 said:

I'm blown away by the Ke4 Max.  Unbelievable.  

 

I'd like to bend the 5, 6, 7 iron another degree or so upright, and I have a loft/lie machine from GW...but I've heard how hard these are to bend.  Any tips?  

These almost have to be done with some heat. It's not impossible but they don't really like to be bent. If I'm doing a cast build that I know has to be bent I'll either order them already adjusted or heat them in the bending vice and just slide a shaft in for measuring. 

To be honest most players who are gaming that level of Game Improvement irons are not consistent enough that a degree one way or the other, would make any difference what so ever. But to a consistent ball striker it can make a difference. 

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5 hours ago, bogey69 said:

I'm blown away by the Ke4 Max.  Unbelievable.  

 

I'd like to bend the 5, 6, 7 iron another degree or so upright, and I have a loft/lie machine from GW...but I've heard how hard these are to bend.  Any tips?  

 

I have a True Blue and an adjustable bending bar. I wanted to decrease the loft of the KE4Max 6 iron by 2*. I have bent many, many irons in the past, but this one didn't want to budge.

 

I went to Lowe's and bought a short length of pipe that would just slip over the grip on my bending bar. That extra foot or so gave me enough leverage to get it done.

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Knowledge of the Rules is part of the skill set which a player must have to play competitive golf.

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4 hours ago, sui generis said:

 

I have a True Blue and an adjustable bending bar. I wanted to decrease the loft of the KE4Max 6 iron by 2*. I have bent many, many irons in the past, but this one didn't want to budge.

 

I went to Lowe's and bought a short length of pipe that would just slip over the grip on my bending bar. That extra foot or so gave me enough leverage to get it done.

Get them good and hot. Should help. 

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30 minutes ago, Popeye64 said:

Get them good and hot. Should help. 

Not in my experience.  If they are stainless you can anneal them by heating them until they glow cherry red and then letting them cool very slowly.  I have done this with cast clubs and bent them 8 degrees or more a few degrees with each cycle.  

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32 minutes ago, Double4me said:

I received my order from Golfworks yesterday. It took a week and a day with a FedEx delay. That also included building the STh hybrid, which I was pleasantly surprised with. Similar finish as the M890's with a matte top and mirror finish on the bottom. I had it cut an inch short from their spec sheet and it falls right in line with the Maxfli 4 hybrid I like so much. So I have high hopes for it. 

 

When I get the TS3's built in a month or two (unless I can sneak the build in before Thursday) I will send pics. I think it will look real nice with the NV shafts, Royal LinkTech grips, and black and white Ferrules. 

20231008_090112.jpg

 

Those are going to look fantastic!

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TE C722 - Maltby TS3 - Maltby TSW - Wilson Windy City

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17 minutes ago, ThinkingPlus said:

So I got the shafts tipped and prepped, butt trimmed, and ferrules installed yesterday.  My hubby helped me epoxy the heads this morning. Easier with two doing the job and I always welcome his help.

 

 

20231008_112315.jpg

Some blue pure grips would look really sweet.

Tour Edge C725 Driver

Wilson C300 3 wood

TourEdge E725 4 hybrid

Maltby STi2-gen2 Irons 5-G

Maltby TSW 52 & 56 wedges

Cleveland HB Soft 10.5C Putter

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9 minutes ago, Popeye64 said:

Did you epoxy your ferruls on?

No, not explicitly. I prep the tips to fit the hosel depth plus maybe 0.25". I sand the ferrules until they just slide over the prepped region. I then press fit the ferrules using the heads by tapping the shafts against the floor until fully seated in the hosel. Finally, a little bit of epoxy will inevitably seal the ferrule bottom where it meets the top of the hosel. Generally if I don't get too aggressive with sanding the ferrule then they never move.

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3 hours ago, ThinkingPlus said:

No, not explicitly. I prep the tips to fit the hosel depth plus maybe 0.25". I sand the ferrules until they just slide over the prepped region. I then press fit the ferrules using the heads by tapping the shafts against the floor until fully seated in the hosel. Finally, a little bit of epoxy will inevitably seal the ferrule bottom where it meets the top of the hosel. Generally if I don't get too aggressive with sanding the ferrule then they never move.

You are lucky then. I prep the tip under the ferrule and epoxy them as I assemble. I haven't had a ferrule creep in years. Previous to doing that I dry fit them. Even one returned iron drove me nuts. 

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1 hour ago, Popeye64 said:

You are lucky then. I prep the tip under the ferrule and epoxy them as I assemble. I haven't had a ferrule creep in years. Previous to doing that I dry fit them. Even one returned iron drove me nuts. 

This is the way, plus a dab of epoxy helps the ferrule glide on easier

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Adams a7 22*

Maltby TS3 Forged 5-9

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3 minutes ago, mynameisntshawn said:

Question for you all on the ferrule topic: do you find that you’re able to remove the ferrules intact after they’ve been installed with a dab of epoxy? I have a few BB&F ferrule sets that I would ideally like to move to new sets/shafts as I continually tinker. 

In the past I've tried to salvage ferrules with little to no success. But like @Popeye64I put extra effort into making sure I don't have any ferrule creep down the road. Unfortunately that also seals the fate of the existing ferrules and I just anticipate buying new ones. 

 

 

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19 minutes ago, AZstu324 said:

In the past I've tried to salvage ferrules with little to no success. But like @Popeye64I put extra effort into making sure I don't have any ferrule creep down the road. Unfortunately that also seals the fate of the existing ferrules and I just anticipate buying new ones. 

 

 

I fiddle with this stuff frequently enough that it’s probably worth risking the creep, at least until I can confirm I am solid on the setup long term.

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1 hour ago, mynameisntshawn said:

Question for you all on the ferrule topic: do you find that you’re able to remove the ferrules intact after they’ve been installed with a dab of epoxy? I have a few BB&F ferrule sets that I would ideally like to move to new sets/shafts as I continually tinker. 

 

Never.  In fact I've never been able to keep any ferrule intact when pulling a shaft.  For me it's a known consumable cost of changing shafts.

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Mostly Wishon with a few Tour Edge Exotics, Cobra, Cleveland, and one Odyssey mixed in.

 

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, mynameisntshawn said:

Question for you all on the ferrule topic: do you find that you’re able to remove the ferrules intact after they’ve been installed with a dab of epoxy? I have a few BB&F ferrule sets that I would ideally like to move to new sets/shafts as I continually tinker. 

I understand the desire to save a $4-$5 ferrule. But to actually fully remove a ferrule intact is extremely difficult for even just one shaft never mind an entire set. 

On steel shafts your chance to remove it improves. On graphite it's so tough as there isn't a way to not use a mechanical shaft puller. 

If it's a steel shaft you would need to twist off the head. Then install the shaft in a shaft clamp just below the ferrule. Then with a hammer persuade the shaft tip and see if you can move the ferrule. 

It's usually a lot of effort with marginal results at best. 

I buy bulk fancy ferrules so it's not as painful. Now way I would ever buy a BB&F ferrule again. 

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9 hours ago, mynameisntshawn said:

I fiddle with this stuff frequently enough that it’s probably worth risking the creep, at least until I can confirm I am solid on the setup long term.

Unfortunately my OCD handedly wins that battle🤦

 

Ferrule creep = stop the world from turning.. I need to fix that NOW! 

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20 minutes ago, ThinkingPlus said:

 

Finished building the TS4s with SF FC80s last night. Turned out pretty nice. Will take them to the range this evening. Need a few swings before a 1-day local competition on Wednesday.

 

 

20231009_115003.jpg

 

Lord have mercy those are beautiful. TS4's are the best looking Maltby iron, IMO.

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TE C722 - Maltby TS3 - Maltby TSW - Wilson Windy City

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I placed an order for the KE4 Max irons (6-GW) and should get them this week. I'm very stoked to see if they live up to the hype. I demo'd the 799's and 749's from Sub 70 last month and liked them a lot, but really wanted to put the value of Maltby's offerings to test. 

 

Order process was incredibly smooth and I even had to ask them about some post-ordering adjustments. I forgot to add that I wanted a different set of grips and lie adjustment done, but the basic customer support email was really quick to respond and make sure the adjustments were confirmed with me. 

 

My next step will be the driver and woods or hybrids. Has anyone done any comparison testing with the Maltby driver and hybrid lineups versus other OEM's?

 

I'm not looking to win any tournaments or become a scratch golfer, just gain consistency in my strikes and get some decent distance for me swing speed (80 MPH for irons, 90-100 for driver). 

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50 minutes ago, PingCrosby said:

I placed an order for the KE4 Max irons (6-GW) and should get them this week. I'm very stoked to see if they live up to the hype. I demo'd the 799's and 749's from Sub 70 last month and liked them a lot, but really wanted to put the value of Maltby's offerings to test. 

 

Order process was incredibly smooth and I even had to ask them about some post-ordering adjustments. I forgot to add that I wanted a different set of grips and lie adjustment done, but the basic customer support email was really quick to respond and make sure the adjustments were confirmed with me. 

 

My next step will be the driver and woods or hybrids. Has anyone done any comparison testing with the Maltby driver and hybrid lineups versus other OEM's?

 

I'm not looking to win any tournaments or become a scratch golfer, just gain consistency in my strikes and get some decent distance for me swing speed (80 MPH for irons, 90-100 for driver). 

 

Having hit the KE4 TC woods and STh2 hybrid, they are solid clubs. Nothing fancy to look at when at address, but they do their job. Can't really beat them for the price. 

TE C722 - Maltby TS3 - Maltby TSW - Wilson Windy City

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After another good range session I stuck the KE4 Max 5i in the bag.  I usually choke down a Rogue 5h for 5i distance, but it was windy and I have room in the bag for both.  I thought I might use it on at least one of 3 par 3's, but the yardage was too short on 4 and too long on 8 and 10.  However the wind set it up for longer approaches on 12 and 14 and it didn't disappoint. It was perfect on 12 and it probably would have been perfect on 14, but either the wind stopped or I absolutely killed it over the back.  I want to build a set of TS3 or TS1-IM ,but I maybe should build the KE4 Max.

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