RAW IRONS POST YOUR PICS

[Matt70]

The 3 and 4 iron from my Signature DW, NCW’s made from Greg Norman’s blanks 

Edited October 22, 2021 by Matt70

[PixlPutterman]

On 10/19/2021 at 4:44 AM, therev said:

Mine were 17.00 a head.  They look brand new!

Who is everyone using?

 

$17 per head is a good price and I want to do this to my z785s now

[justasgood]

[Russ757]

On 5/22/2020 at 8:26 AM, golfkrzy10 said:

Just got an update from Doug. Cannot wait to get these into my hands!

 

Bit late but doing this with a set of 785/u85 for a nice winter project

Edited October 24, 2021 by Russ757

[joshsparham]

What kind of on going maintenance is required for raw irons?  Thinking of getting some but don't want to have to constantly "take care" of them.  I do take good care of my equipment but I don't want to have to constantly scrub them with sandpaper or steel wool.  

 

Just curious what all is involved after getting the patina 

[PixlPutterman]

1 hour ago, joshsparham said:

What kind of on going maintenance is required for raw irons?  Thinking of getting some but don't want to have to constantly "take care" of them.  I do take good care of my equipment but I don't want to have to constantly scrub them with sandpaper or steel wool.  

 

Just curious what all is involved after getting the patina 

Same as anything else that rusts, what level of rust do you want?

 

Unless you never wipe off your clubs and you live next to an ocean, there really isnt any maintenance, they will get a little surface rust.

[joshsparham]

9 hours ago, PixlPutterman said:

Same as anything else that rusts, what level of rust do you want?

 

Unless you never wipe off your clubs and you live next to an ocean, there really isnt any maintenance, they will get a little surface rust.

Yeah some rust is totally fine.  I just wanted to make sure they wouldn't get absolutely covered thick in rust.  

 

I live in a humid area but keep my clubs inside and generally clean them at minimum after each round.  If they will just rust a little bit I am not worried about it and don't mind rubbing them down every once in a while with something.

 

Just wanted to make sure it wasn't constant maintenance. 

[PixlPutterman]

1 hour ago, joshsparham said:

Yeah some rust is totally fine.  I just wanted to make sure they wouldn't get absolutely covered thick in rust.  

 

I live in a humid area but keep my clubs inside and generally clean them at minimum after each round.  If they will just rust a little bit I am not worried about it and don't mind rubbing them down every once in a while with something.

 

Just wanted to make sure it wasn't constant maintenance. 

You'll keep the rust off the faces and s*** sole simply by using them, you can lightly rub the rest of the clubs with a paper towel with some silicone oil or wd40 on it if your really want to control the rust.

 

Though you have to be rather neglectful of your clubs to really get major rust on them

[autronicdsm]

Did anybody try regrooving their heads? I'm curious what's the best way for DIY?

[jmck]

20 hours ago, joshsparham said:

Yeah some rust is totally fine.  I just wanted to make sure they wouldn't get absolutely covered thick in rust.  

 

I live in a humid area but keep my clubs inside and generally clean them at minimum after each round.  If they will just rust a little bit I am not worried about it and don't mind rubbing them down every once in a while with something.

 

Just wanted to make sure it wasn't constant maintenance. 

I wouldn't worry about it.  

 

I'm out in the country and I have a hay field that in the winter becomes my own personal driving range.  If you want an example of maximum rust, here's a raw wedge that has lived outside every day since at least 2014, if not earlier, and never once been cleaned.  If you look carefully, some of the lower grooves on the face are starting to fill in solid with rust, down where it sits against the ground.  But all in all, still pretty serviceable, and it's certainly an extreme use case.

 

 

 

 

If you want to see a "control group" of sorts, here's a chrome club that's been sitting right next to it the whole time.

 

 

 

[Russ757]

I may have missed it, but has anyone rusted a driving iron?  I have a u85 that I'm on the fence about either satinizing or  sending in with the 785/rtx 2.0 I have planned for next month. 

[swgolf12]

22 hours ago, Russ757 said:

I may have missed it, but has anyone rusted a driving iron?  I have a u85 that I'm on the fence about either satinizing or  sending in with the 785/rtx 2.0 I have planned for next month. 

 

I haven't done it but might do a T-MB or something if it works out for you.  I think the issue is that unless it's chrome plating over carbon steel any area that isn't carbon isn't going to rust if it's stainless, or tungsten or some other material used.

[jmck]

1 hour ago, swgolf12 said:

 

I haven't done it but might do a T-MB or something if it works out for you.  I think the issue is that unless it's chrome plating over carbon steel any area that isn't carbon isn't going to rust if it's stainless, or tungsten or some other material used.

Yeah, exactly. If you click back through the thread, at some point maybe five or seven or so pages back someone posted Titleist CBs that have tungsten in the long irons. Definitely a different look than a single material head.

[PixlPutterman]

On 11/4/2021 at 6:50 PM, Russ757 said:

I may have missed it, but has anyone rusted a driving iron?  I have a u85 that I'm on the fence about either satinizing or  sending in with the 785/rtx 2.0 I have planned for next month. 

I'm debating sending my OG MP Fli hi in when I do my z785 this winter

[asKaasa]

Newest raw addition. P-4 Callaway Apex 18 MB.

Here the 7 iron.

 

Corey Paul wedges needs more patina to get their pictures taken.

[Hammer_Hands]

On 10/28/2021 at 3:58 PM, jmck said:

I wouldn't worry about it.  

 

I'm out in the country and I have a hay field that in the winter becomes my own personal driving range.  If you want an example of maximum rust, here's a raw wedge that has lived outside every day since at least 2014, if not earlier, and never once been cleaned.  If you look carefully, some of the lower grooves on the face are starting to fill in solid with rust, down where it sits against the ground.  But all in all, still pretty serviceable, and it's certainly an extreme use case.

 

 

 

 

If you want to see a "control group" of sorts, here's a chrome club that's been sitting right next to it the whole time.

 

 

 

Be still my heart

[gentles]

Just picked up a set of miura rac cb that I want to have the chrome removed

 

do you need to do any bead blasting to the faces etc or can I just hit the head with some steel wool to shine them up and then let the rust take over?

 

 

[Howard_Jones]

50 minutes ago, gentles said:

Just picked up a set of miura rac cb that I want to have the chrome removed

 

do you need to do any bead blasting to the faces etc or can I just hit the head with some steel wool to shine them up and then let the rust take over?

 

 

Stripping of chrome is a job for professionals and has nothing to do with bead blasting, so the answer is NO, steel wool cant make it.
 

[PixlPutterman]

3 hours ago, gentles said:

Just picked up a set of miura rac cb that I want to have the chrome removed

 

do you need to do any bead blasting to the faces etc or can I just hit the head with some steel wool to shine them up and then let the rust take over?

 

 

Its an electro-chemical process, not an abrasion process. Steel wool wont do a thing

[gentles]

4 hours ago, PixlPutterman said:

Its an electro-chemical process, not an abrasion process. Steel wool wont do a thing

sorry I meant after the chrome is removed! Like once you’ve got the raw steel do you need to do anything 🙂

[PixlPutterman]

24 minutes ago, gentles said:

sorry I meant after the chrome is removed! Like once you’ve got the raw steel do you need to do anything 🙂

 

 

Not really, just play em 🙂

[autronicdsm]

On 12/9/2021 at 1:39 PM, gentles said:

sorry I meant after the chrome is removed! Like once you’ve got the raw steel do you need to do anything 🙂

 

Depends on what you want. You can use low grit abrasives to have that grainy look, or you can work it with high grit to give it a polished, shiny appearance. Then there's satin finish which requires different wheel to obtain that look. Either way they will all rust once you start playing them.

[autronicdsm]

Does anyone have experience with heads that had a badge in a cavity that was supposed to improve the feel? I recently got some Cleveland CG7 tour issue irons. I'm just trying to figure out what to expect for feel after the badge is removed? Heads are cast so... 🤔 I took some swings into a net and they felt pretty firm as-is. I saw people stripped Srixon Zs, but they're all forged so feeling much softer to begin with. Besides the badge, Clevelands also have some sort of rubber piece at the bottom of the cavity. Unfortunately for me, that insert goes in deeper underneath those two round bumpers inside a cavity so I would be installing those back after stripping, just for appearance reasons alone. Or maybe I shouldn't strip those at all and play as is, since they are tour issue?! What you guys think?

 

[marmaduk]

I think any technology claims on a badge, that is glued into place, is probably BS to begin with. You’ll probably not notice a difference. 

[NixLix26]

Cheers to the Cleveland’s. 
 

[zaccaf]

On 5/10/2021 at 9:15 AM, jmck said:

Finally getting around to taking new pictures of these.  I posted them a few pages back as I got them:

 

 

Went back to KBS Tour V shafts, new ferrules, and took them back down to rust-free raw.  In some places they ended up with a kind of iridescent look which I really like.  Not sure how or why exactly.  Used Klean-Strip Concrete & Metal Prep (phosphoric acid) and Scotch Brite green pads, harsher than CLR but works almost instantly. Wear gloves!

 

 

The 3 and 4i are 545s.  Wasn't sure how they'd come out with the badges removed but ended up really liking them.  

 

 

Half considering blueing them, or screwing with the paintfill, but OTOH I'm pretty happy with them as they are.

 

 

Definitely want to do these with my 765/965!! 
 

where did you have yours done?

[jmck]

12 hours ago, zaccaf said:

Definitely want to do these with my 765/965!! 
 

where did you have yours done?

A buddy of mine is a high end car restoration guy, so I use the guy he uses to redo chrome trim and bumpers.  To properly do those, first you need to strip off the old chrome.  Given that they have tanks sized to fit bumpers it's trivial for them to throw a set of iron heads in at the same time and charge a couple bucks a pop.  What I get back is pretty rough raw though.  You can go through a golf specialty pace and you'll get back a more finished looking product.  Oughton is a popular one (https://oughtonsgolf.com), and I think Golfworks offers the service as well.  After they strip the chrome they can bead blast, tumble the heads, hit them with scotchbrite or steel wool, etc. for that smoother look.  I'm on my own for that part of the process, going through my buddy's buddy.

[tmz016]

Got these in the mail today. Been a dream set of mine for many years and almost impossible to find here in Sweden, especially in this condition.

 

Will build them after Christmas with some PX 6.0 and BB&f-ferrules.

[marmaduk]

3 hours ago, tmz016 said:

Got these in the mail today. Been a dream set of mine for many years and almost impossible to find here in Sweden, especially in this condition.

 

Will build them after Christmas with some PX 6.0 and BB&f-ferrules.

Unicorn set for sure 

[PhlashPhace]

6 hours ago, jmck said:

A buddy of mine is a high end car restoration guy, so I use the guy he uses to redo chrome trim and bumpers.  To properly do those, first you need to strip off the old chrome.  Given that they have tanks sized to fit bumpers it's trivial for them to throw a set of iron heads in at the same time and charge a couple bucks a pop.  What I get back is pretty rough raw though.  You can go through a golf specialty pace and you'll get back a more finished looking product.  Oughton is a popular one (https://oughtonsgolf.com), and I think Golfworks offers the service as well.  After they strip the chrome they can bead blast, tumble the heads, hit them with scotchbrite or steel wool, etc. for that smoother look.  I'm on my own for that part of the process, going through my buddy's buddy.

The chrome is the easy part to remove because it's so thin.  The tough part is the nickel plating which is what they're stripping at the bumper shop in tanks of acid.  I would avoid plating shops that mainly do car parts because you'll lose a lot of weight.  They don't care how much weight a bumper loses but it's pretty important in clubheads.

 

There are better ways that are slower but don't corrode the base metal so I always recommend a golf specific refinishing company.