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Would adjustable drivers stay in the bag longer than fixed heads?


harpua728

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Hey there. I’m looking into a new driver, possibly the M5 or M6, and was wondering (on the assumption that both driver perform the same for me in a fitting) if it’s worth spending more for the adjustable driver so that I can tweak it down the road if/when my swing changes. I’m a set it and forget it type of guy, so I wouldn’t be playing with the adjustments a lot.

 

However, I currently game a ten year old driver, and it just doesn’t work for me anymore due to a few subtle swing changes over the years. If I get a new driver and find myself in the same situation 10 years from now, would I be better off adjusting the settings or just going with something completely new at that time? I feel like the heads won’t be much better down the road, but who knows. Not sure there’s a right or wrong answer here, but just curious for your thoughts.

 

Thanks.

 

 

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Heads won't be better down the road because of he COR limits imposed by the USGA and R&A. If you want to spend money on a new driver go right ahead, it's your money. Is your 10 year old driver neutral biased (neither draw or fade biased)? If so then if you're getting constant fades or slices then it's you not the driver and the M5 or M6 heads will react the same way (assuming they're set in neutral positions).

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2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
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"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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> @cgasucks said:

> Heads won't be better down the road because of he COR limits imposed by the USGA and R&A. If you want to spend money on a new driver go right ahead, it's your money. Is your 10 year old driver neutral biased (neither draw or fade biased)? If so then if you're getting constant fades or slices then it's you not the driver and the M5 or M6 heads will react the same way (assuming their set in neutral positions).

 

I tend to hit my current driver really high with a lot of spin. Killing distance. In terms of hooks/slices, I know that it’s the Indian and not the arrow. However, some of the newer heads seem to be pretty forgiving on off center strikes.

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> @harpua728 said:

> > @cgasucks said:

> > Heads won't be better down the road because of he COR limits imposed by the USGA and R&A. If you want to spend money on a new driver go right ahead, it's your money. Is your 10 year old driver neutral biased (neither draw or fade biased)? If so then if you're getting constant fades or slices then it's you not the driver and the M5 or M6 heads will react the same way (assuming their set in neutral positions).

 

 

>

> **I tend to hit my current driver really high with a lot of spin**. Killing distance. In terms of hooks/slices, I know that it’s the Indian and not the arrow. However, some of the newer heads seem to be pretty forgiving on off center strikes.

 

I don't have that problem since my AOA is in the negative (lots of forward shaft lean at impact) and I tee it just high enough so the ball hits dead center of the driver face. Maybe you should tee the ball a little lower so the ball hits dead center as well.

 

10.5 deg Titleist 905R with stock UST Proforce V2 Shaft (Stiff flex)
Titleist 990 (3-PW) with stock Dynamic Gold in S300
Taylormade V-Steel 5W & 3W with Grafalloy Prolaunch Red shafts (Regular Flex)
2011 Adams Tom Watson signature wedges in 52 and 56 degrees with stock steel shafts (Player's Grind)
Rife Island Series Aruba Blade Putter

 

"Loft for loft, length for length, and shaft for shaft, the ball will go the same distance when hit on the sweet spot regardless how old the iron."

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What are you playing now? Im still all non adjustable right now....lead tape and a 45inch driver and a few lessons cure most issues! Get back to central impact on the driver face (actually just towards toe and just above centre line)and your a winner.Use marker pen to test impact spot after a few holes when your warmed up. This is Golfwrx.Ten years is 9 years tooooo long!☺ Buy Try Ho

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> @RogerinNewZealand said:

> What are you playing now? Im still all non adjustable right now....lead tape and a 45inch driver and a few lessons cure most issues! Get back to central impact on the driver face (actually just towards toe and just above centre line)and your a winner.Use marker pen to test impact spot after a few holes when your warmed up. This is Golfwrx.Ten years is 9 years tooooo long!☺ Buy Try Ho

 

I’m playing a G15, and I’m trying to avoid buying a new driver every few years. I get what you’re saying, but even perfect strikes with my G15 are 30 yards shorter than perfect strikes (for me) with newer drivers. I’ve done plenty of side by side comps.

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To me, a Driver with adjustable sleeve has far more flexibility than one without. I've been known to lower or increase loft on the first tee based on conditions. Plus, I can buy a new shaft and simply have a sleeve put on it to fit my favorite driver head. Also, all my 917 shafts fit my TS2 head, same is true for 3wd. If Titleist were to decide to change the sleeve or remove it - they will lose a customer down the road. And I know I won't be the only one.

 

The only possible problem some people face is they are unwilling to tackle testing all sleeve and loft settings to see which works the best and or what other options might work under different circumstances.

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My last 3 drivers have all been adjustable. After initial tinkering and adjusting to get them to perform for me, guess what? They all ended up being set to 10* and square...almost exactly the same as my 3 previous fixed head drivers!

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> @harpua728 said:

> I tend to hit my current driver really high with a lot of spin. Killing distance. In terms of hooks/slices, I know that it’s the Indian and not the arrow. However, some of the newer heads seem to be pretty forgiving on off center strikes.

The forgiveness only affects where you hit the ball on the face not how you hit the ball. If you hit with an open face the new driver will still slice. The only difference is if you hit it straight but on the heel or toe you might loose 10yds and be 5yds offline instead of 20yds short and 10yds offline.

> @harpua728 said:

> I’m playing a G15, and I’m trying to avoid buying a new driver every few years. I get what you’re saying, but even perfect strikes with my G15 are 30 yards shorter than perfect strikes (for me) with newer drivers. I’ve done plenty of side by side comps.

 

Thirty yds is a lot of distance to be loosing. If you are fairly consistent and hit the ball solid say 70% of the time then maybe a new driver would make enough of a difference to notice in your score. That's the difference between hitting a 7iron instead of a 5iron. Oh I'm sorry, this is WRX so that is the difference between hitting a LW instead of a PW. So you should be getting it within 5ft instead of 15ft.

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My favorite thing about adjustable heads is the ability to swap shafts pretty much whenever you want. In my (humble) opinion, you should give an adjustable driver a try. The head will not be any "hotter" per se due to COR limits. Many times, you can get slightly used heads at a reduced price (allowing you to potentially purchase different heads such as a standard head, a head with buitl-in draw bias, or a low spinning head in the same driver model). This also gives you freedom to experiment if you so desire.

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> @hacker49 said:

> > @harpua728 said:

> > I tend to hit my current driver really high with a lot of spin. Killing distance. In terms of hooks/slices, I know that it’s the Indian and not the arrow. However, some of the newer heads seem to be pretty forgiving on off center strikes.

> The forgiveness only affects where you hit the ball on the face not how you hit the ball. If you hit with an open face the new driver will still slice. The only difference is if you hit it straight but on the heel or toe you might loose 10yds and be 5yds offline instead of 20yds short and 10yds offline.

> > @harpua728 said:

> > I’m playing a G15, and I’m trying to avoid buying a new driver every few years. I get what you’re saying, but even perfect strikes with my G15 are 30 yards shorter than perfect strikes (for me) with newer drivers. I’ve done plenty of side by side comps.

>

> Thirty yds is a lot of distance to be loosing. If you are fairly consistent and hit the ball solid say 70% of the time then maybe a new driver would make enough of a difference to notice in your score. That's the difference between hitting a 7iron instead of a 5iron. Oh I'm sorry, this is WRX so that is the difference between hitting a LW instead of a PW. So you should be getting it within 5ft instead of 15ft.

 

Considering that I tend to hit it with an open face, my miss is a slice. That being said, would I be better off with a lower spin head (to reduce sidespin) rather than something that's a touch more forgiving (and spinny)?

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You didnt mention an 8.5 or 9.5 so i assume your a 10.5 loft and 95mph swing.A G25 or newer are long lower spin higher moi for forgiveness etc.So there is 20 yards gain.For lower spin you need to be able to hold the ball up there eg 100 to 107mph more aggressive swing. Hope my guesses help.

2020 18 July mid winterNZ
Ping Rapture 2006 10.5
Nike VrS 3wood
Callaway Razr Edge5 wood

MP100=33 9876 5/mp63
54     RTX2
60     RTX2
ProPlatinum NewportTwo
2002 325gram +8.NewGrip
Dont hesitate to buy one!






 

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It’s hard to say for sure if the adjustable weights will keep the club in your bag longer... what weight setting are you using currently? If it’s something moderate, they might be useful if you need more or less spin in the future.

 

The question becomes, how do you think your swing will change?

 

Honestly, I’d consider buying a new m4 for half the price.

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> @RogerinNewZealand said:

> You didnt mention an 8.5 or 9.5 so i assume your a 10.5 loft and 95mph swing.A G25 or newer are long lower spin higher moi for forgiveness etc.So there is 20 yards gain.For lower spin you need to be able to hold the ball up there eg 100 to 107mph more aggressive swing. Hope my guesses help.

 

I’m in a 10.5 head with a SS of 96-100mph.

 

 

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> @Pepperturbo said:

> To me, a Driver with adjustable sleeve has far more flexibility than one without. I've been known to lower or increase loft on the first tee based on conditions. Plus, I can buy a new shaft and simply have a sleeve put on it to fit my favorite driver head. Also, all my 917 shafts fit my TS2 head, same is true for 3wd. If Titleist were to decide to change the sleeve or remove it - they will lose a customer down the road. And I know I won't be the only one.

>

> The only possible problem some people face is they are unwilling to tackle testing all sleeve and loft settings to see which works the best and or what other options might work under different circumstances.

 

The only other problem i see is people adjusting too much once they find their proper settings.

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