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Increasing loft without closing face?


gambit

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The loft increases BECAUSE the face closes, no way around that. Buy a higher loft and turn it down.

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Why not just go for an older model fw? Kind of the cool thing to do in terms of fairways anyway.

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For ALL clubs, Woods, Hybrids, Irons and Wedges, we can ONLY adjust either lie angle or face angle, Loft is not really a option, but a consequence of the position we measure the club loft.

That means, no matter club, if we want a different loft, we have to go by face angle adjusting, EVEN for irons and wedges, we see Irons and Wedges as different because we always grip irons and wedges with a square face angle, and nothing prevent us from doing that with a hybrid, wood or driver either, so this is really not a issue unless you always grip the club in the position it naturally falls soled to the ground, but we DONT do that for wedges or irons, so why does it seems like so many grip and play their woods and hybrids different?

 

The conversion ratio to convert a face angle change to become a loft change (loft as measured with square face angle, OR returned back to the face angle we started from, (like 1* open or closed*), we can use this small chart who is depending on the clubs lie angle.

 

UW1RJ2X7WZQP.pngSo to use the Wedge as example, its standard lie is often 64* so if we have a 58* Lob wedge we wanted to become 59*, we must bend FACE ANGLE open by 1.75*.

When this wedge is addressed square like it is in a bending machine, we have converted the face angle change to become a Loft change.

If you have a Micthell Bending machine with Face angle gauge, we can take our 58*, bend FA, loosen the head and re-align, and instead of loosening the Loft fixture clamp and gauge, open the face angle gauge, and measure the difference to face angle, and you can use the factors above back to loft. Thats how we can bend a hybrid for FA in a Mitchell Signature on heads with bendable hosel we wanted to change loft on. Its the same chart i used for that, mostly Wishon hybrids, but the chart is the same no matter club from driver to wedge.

A reason for buying a low lofted club and add loft by closing FA, could also be to prevent a slice or the right side if thats the mishit patter, or a higher lofted head and open face angle if we want some anti hook, but play length and wanted head weight could also be a parameter who makes a difference for our choice..

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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You might want to view the video in the "How adjustable clubs actually work" thread...the first pinned thread in the Clubmaking Forum.

Just the opposite ....If you return the club to square at impact you get the benefit of the loft adjustment by moving the adapter. Otherwise you have just changed the face angle. Such as you grip it as the sole sits AND deliver it at that face angle.

 

 

 

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All you are doing when adjusting the TM hosel is changing the angle the shaft enters the club head. When you increase loft, you lean the grip end towards the target and vise versa when you decrease loft. Because of this, when you return the shaft to a neutral perpendicular position, two things happen. The loft changes because the entire head is rocking (tilting) back or forward. Second, as a consequence of that, the head changes how the sole interacts with the ground and the head falls closed when up lofted or open when delofted.

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Look around for a gently used 3W/HL. Lots of them out there. Also, if you truly want a 4W, consider trimming the 43.25" shaft of the 3W/HL to increase center hits.

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Post-Injury Long Clubs > Cle XL2 Draw Driver 12° w/ Aldila Accent 40 R-flex shaft // Big Bertha B21 5W w/RCH 45 Lite shaft

(Former Long Clubs -> Driver: Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W)

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

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If you search around for a tour issue head long enough, you may find one with a spec sticker “close” to what you’re after. Occasionally they show up a bit off spec. Might be one way to get close to where you want to be, just depends on how close is good enough for your needs. Even if you found one at 16* that’s about .3* of launch angle difference and 150 RPMs +- of spin.

 

A 15.9* M3 head for example. Also often a smidge open to give you a little wiggle room to close the face to add loft. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401708750212

 

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Are you absolutely locked to a TM? TEE usually has a 16.5* or 17* loft in their fairway models...

The Ever Changing Bag!  A lot of mixing and matching
Driver: TM 300 Mini, NV75 or NV85 X -or- Cobra DarkSpeed LS, HZRDUS Green Smoke 70 X

Fwy woods:  TM SIM2 Ti, Aldila Tour Blue 85 X; King LTD 5w, RIP Beta 90 X (this may replace hybrid below)
Hybrid:  Cobra King Tec 2h or 3h, Modus 105 S 

Irons grab bag:  3-GW Maltby TS4, Modus 105 S; Tommy Armour 986 Tours 2-PW, Modus 105 S; Mizuno MS-11, Modus 120 S
Wedges:  Maltby Max Milled 56° 1.05 -or- Cobra Snakebite 56°
Putter:  Cleveland HB Soft2 #8S, 34"
Balls: Maxfli Tour, Callaway Chrome Soft

Grip preference: various GripMaster leather options, Best Grips Microperfs, or Star Grip Sidewinders of assorted colors

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If you play Ribbed grips and have a preference for face angle at address, not even OCD should be a hinder, look into other possible differences to the heads you look at like head weight, size, face height and use that info to help out with your decision, the loft to face angle issue is not really a bigger issue than what we make out of it since it up to us how we grip the club. Club specs DO force us as players to make a change in our swing, but face angle is one we can overrule by ease as WE like it to be so simply "take command" over it, thats all it takes.

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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