Titleist Hybrid Adapters with 0.355 Steel Shafts

Skipperation · February 4, 2020

Recently been experimenting with a 816 hybrid (never been a fan of hybrids before now) and found a few graphite shaft options that I like but I also wanted to try it with a shorter heavier steel shaft at higher lofts to be a more direct replacement for a 3 or even 4 iron.

Installed a DG 120 X100 in an aftermarket adapter, the shaft although a 0.355 taper tip actually calipered slightly larger and I couldn't get it to fit with a shim without more sanding on the shaft tip so I used some extra shafting beads and got what seemed like a really nice snug and centered fit. Took it down the range, first hit brilliant, second hit not so much..... the adapter sheared in two at the base of the shaft, leaving half in the head which hurtled out into the range and the other still on the shaft. This is the first time I've ever had a head come off on me, either from my own club work which I've done a fair amount over the past 5 years or from a factory fit.

I was hoping to find out if anybody else has had this sort of issue with a steel shaft in a shaft adapter or ways around it/likely issue. I'm assuming the consensus will be use of an aftermarket adapter (never had an issue with many that I've bought before for varying brands) and no shim, would one have made a difference? Can you get 0.355 adapters for Titleist hybrids? I know Webb Simpson uses an X100 in his 4 hybrid, is it a .370 parallel tip?

Any thoughts welcome!

Cheers

Stuart_G · February 4, 2020

I doubt the use of a steel shaft was a contributing factor. In theory it's possible but for practical purposes it's more likely the quality of the aftermarket adapter is the true culpret (or the general nature of the impact - was it a heal strike?). If it broke with the steel shaft, it probably would have broken with a graphite shaft if nothing else changed about the impact.

The use of a shim (or not) vs beads could effect the strength of the glue joint, but it would have no effect on the strength of the adapter itself. And if it had really been an inferior glue joint, then it's the glue joint that would have failed, not the adapter.

Well, that's assuming that your attempt to force the shaft into the adapter with a shim (before abandoning that approach) didn't actually cause some damage to the adapter.

FYI, there is a small chance that pictures of the broken adapter may have provided some additional info if you still have it.

Skipperation · February 4, 2020

Thanks for the response. I've only picked up the clubhead now (battered from the ball picker...) as the range found it on the outfield so will post photos shortly.

The shaft itself didn't snap, the break point was at the base of the shaft and the adapter was bought with two others that have held up fine with two graphite shafts. I didn't get very far or try very hard with the shim so doubt that was the issue. My best guess is that the tip of the shaft when being installed has scored the inside of the adapter and caused a weak point as I usually spin the shaft around a few time before lining up to try to get an even coverage of epoxy and this wouldn't cause any damage with a graphite shaft. Mainly just wanted to know if adapters breaking is more common with a steel shaft?

The strike was actually very good ... though I've hit plenty of heel strikes with the other adapters!

Stuart_G · February 4, 2020

@Skipperation also said "the adapter was bought with two others that have held up fine with two graphite shafts"
That doesn't really mean all that much. All it takes is a single manufacturing defect to creep into one of the adapters. Lots of ways that can happen such that one will fail and the next few will be perfectly sound.
@Skipperation said "My best guess is that the tip of the shaft when being installed has scored the inside of the adapter and caused a weak point as I usually spin the shaft around a few time before lining up to try to get an even coverage of epoxy and this wouldn't cause any damage with a graphite shaft"
Not impossible, but very unlikely. It's very common for builders to use various tools much sharper than a steel shaft tip to abraid the inside of an adapter to help the epoxy bond and I've never heard any of those things leading to a failure of the adapter. It would have to be one huge burr on the shaft tip to cause enough damage to a well designed adapter to cause it to fail. And if it did happen, you'd very likely feel it grinding away at the adapter as you twisted the shaft tip.

But to answer the question, this is the first failure of it's type that I've seen anyone post about (steel or graphite).