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Removing Grips - Grip Tape Sticking


ajlacombe

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I have removed countless grips over the years and have never asked this question and wonder who has run into this.

 

I use a GolfSmith grip remover - the one that looks like a T handle with a coat hanger that you push between the grip and the tape/shaft - while using grip tape solvent.  The removal is dependent on whether or not the tape is seemingly fused to the grip.  You can tell there is an issue with the tape when the  grip tool starts to poke through the grip because it can not separate the grip from the tape.  "If" you are patient enough to get the grip off - you have to use a tool on the grip tape to get it off of the inside of the grip.

 

I used to have more patience with this and now I give up much sooner and just cut the grip off.

 

The question is, why do some of the grips seem to fuse with the tape and others easily separate and can be removed without tons of tape residue on the inside of the grip?  When the grip and tape fuses, even cutting off the grip is tough because the grip and tape will not give.  Thanks!

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I can't answer your question about why the tape sticks so hard to the grips at times but I find if you slosh some solvent in the grip and then use the grip core cleaner brush that golf supply places sell, or as I do, a 12g shotgun cleaning brush you can get the cores pretty clean.

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18 hours ago, DArnie said:

Heat the grip slightly with a heat gun and see if that helps before using the grip remover tool. Part of my routine now and seems to help. 

Oh cool - thanks for the tip - I will try that next time - I am guessing that the grips have a high melt/burn temp so it is fairly safe?

Titleist GT2, 9º, MMT Speedmesh

Titleist GT2, 15º fw, Tensei Blue

Titleist GT2, 21º Hy, GD Tour AD IZ

Titleist GT2, 24º Hy, GD Tour AD IZ

Titleist T150 6-48º Nippon 850 GH

Vokey SM10 Vokey Custom by BV 46º, 50º, 54º, 58º, Nippon 850 GH

L.A.B. Golf OZ.1i, DF3 Reg & Broom, MEZZ.1 Max reg & Broom,  MEZZ.1, DF 2.1 Reg & Broom

No room to list Bench Warmers 🙂

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Get the grip removal tool from GW with the groove on it. I do 100s if grip most months and it serves me well if I want or need to save a grip. 

Solvent and slow is your friend. Sometimes you cant help the build up in grip so dump some solvent in asap and use a bottle brush and run the tool up and down inside the grip to scape out the gunk. 

Make sure you start with the tool between the grip and the tape working the bar in a slow circular manner and add solvent as you go. 

 

Havent tried the heat first but I will. Thanks

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I use a heat gun as well.  The heat can release the adhesive and make the grip easier to get off.  If the grip has been on a long time, sometimes I can heat it up a little and then use an air compressor to remove it.

The heat gun trick works well on the shaft after the grip has been removed to make the tape much e asier to peel off without leaving adhesive residue

Edited by AmazinBlue
Typo

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19 hours ago, DArnie said:

Definitely try on a couple old clubs first. Use the heat gun not the torch. 

Will do Arnie - I have a set of shaft pulls that I can play around with - thanks again.  I do have a GolfWorks tool to clean the core of the grip if I can get it off before my patience runs out 🙂

 

The GolfSmith tool is similar to the GolfWorks tool except it is more flexible so you can not force things as much, but what it can allow is rotating the handle 180º and then I can rotate it around the shaft so I do not have to insert it at multiple locations, I just rotate it .  I am sure we all have our little things we do with it.  I look forward to messing with the heat

Titleist GT2, 9º, MMT Speedmesh

Titleist GT2, 15º fw, Tensei Blue

Titleist GT2, 21º Hy, GD Tour AD IZ

Titleist GT2, 24º Hy, GD Tour AD IZ

Titleist T150 6-48º Nippon 850 GH

Vokey SM10 Vokey Custom by BV 46º, 50º, 54º, 58º, Nippon 850 GH

L.A.B. Golf OZ.1i, DF3 Reg & Broom, MEZZ.1 Max reg & Broom,  MEZZ.1, DF 2.1 Reg & Broom

No room to list Bench Warmers 🙂

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agree with above.  It's never a bad idea to run some heat over the grip prior to pulling it.  Loosens things up a bit and makes life much easier.  Every grip doesn't need it but i do it to avoid the misery of a what you described.. 

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This is why I use the grip shooter bottle with needle.  The tape always separates from the grip.  I give 4 or 5 pumps, watch the solvent work down through the grip (anywhere from instant to maybe 5 seconds), then twist and pull off grip.  Typically 10 - 20 seconds per grip.  I know the grip shooter doesn't get a lot of love here but its worked for me for many years.  

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/5/2020 at 6:21 AM, cristphoto said:

This is why I use the grip shooter bottle with needle.  The tape always separates from the grip.  I give 4 or 5 pumps, watch the solvent work down through the grip (anywhere from instant to maybe 5 seconds), then twist and pull off grip.  Typically 10 - 20 seconds per grip.  I know the grip shooter doesn't get a lot of love here but its worked for me for many years.  

Grip shooter seems to work well if you can get one that’s quality made. Have sent mine back twice in a year for repairs

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I got mine from Golfworks over 20 years ago and its still going strong.  Its the older model with the metal cannister which evidently was overbuilt. The new models come with plastic cannisters which don't seem to hold as much pressure.  The only thing I've done is replace the needles from time to time.  They now make an industrial needle which is thicker and doesn't tend to bend.  Its paid for itself many times over particularly now that grips seem to be running about $10 each.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/5/2020 at 7:59 PM, DallasSteve said:

I still wonder why the grip shooter hasn't found its way into a horror movie yet.  All kinds of possible scenarios . . .

If you are part of one of those possible scenarios, you might a possible Darwin Award Winner.

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