Cobra One Length Forged shaft setup and replacement

[Stanks]

What up bros? Long story short, I secured a great deal on some Cobra Forged Tour One Lengths. Seemed too good to be true. Club heads, condition and wear were all pretty good. Unfortunately, like a moron, I didn't ask for close up of the shafts and upon arrival, they were all the same length but a few 80 gram, a few 90 gram, and one 120 gram. Needless to say, not happy. 

 

So here in lies the question with shaft replacements, do I need to use any particular shaft? I have X100s and have used X100s for as long as I can remember in my Srixon Z Forged, Cobra MB, Wilson V5s, PXGs and a few others. I tried one length before for about 3 months and regretted ditching them. So I sought out some more.

 

Should I go another route? And how would I know which shaft would be the most ideal to use in this situation? Do they need to TIP the shafts with whichever one I choose from for each different iron head? I have a hard time believing that I buy 7 shafts in 7 iron length and trim them all the same and stick them in the hosel and have everything work out. 

[Stuart_G]

Cobra has done some messed up things with the shafts on their one length sets - so I wouldn't be surprised if the different shaft weights were the way they came out of the factory.

 

But bottom line use whatever shaft is the best fit for you.   The one length concept doesn't change that at all.

 

If you want to play them at 7 iron lengths - then use the 7 iron shaft or use the 7 iron trim recommendations depending on if the shafts you choose are discrete length or single length blanks.   Most taper tip shafts and even some parallel tip shafts are discrete length and shouldn't normally be tip trimmed.  A different version of the shaft is manufactured for each iron.   In that case, if you want to play them at 7 iron length then you get 7 iron shafts (for all heads) and only butt trim to the desired length.    The other parallel tip shafts are only made as a single length blank that is tip trimmed based on which iron you want to install it in, then butt cut to the desired playing length.

 

DG x100's come in both parallel and tapered - so you have your choice but keep in mind that they are different shafts.  The parallel tip version is softer than the taper tip version.  So you might want to stick to the one you're used to or know has worked for you.

 

Edited November 26, 2020 by Stuart_G

[extrastiff]

6 hours ago, Stanks said:

 

What up bros? Long story short, I secured a great deal on some Cobra Forged Tour One Lengths. Seemed too good to be true. Club heads, condition and wear were all pretty good. Unfortunately, like a moron, I didn't ask for close up of the shafts and upon arrival, they were all the same length but a few 80 gram, a few 90 gram, and one 120 gram. Needless to say, not happy. 

 

So here in lies the question with shaft replacements, do I need to use any particular shaft? I have X100s and have used X100s for as long as I can remember in my Srixon Z Forged, Cobra MB, Wilson V5s, PXGs and a few others. I tried one length before for about 3 months and regretted ditching them. So I sought out some more.

 

Should I go another route? And how would I know which shaft would be the most ideal to use in this situation? Do they need to TIP the shafts with whichever one I choose from for each different iron head? I have a hard time believing that I buy 7 shafts in 7 iron length and trim them all the same and stick them in the hosel and have everything work out. 

You definitely can use the same shaft and all the heads. I have, to great success. X7 wedge shafts throughout the set

[Stanks]

1 minute ago, extrastiff said:

You definitely can use the same shaft and all the heads. I have, to great success. X7 wedge shafts throughout the set

And how’d exactly did you go about accomplishing this?

[extrastiff]

10 minutes ago, Stanks said:

And how’d exactly did you go about accomplishing this?

I bought x7 wedge shafts, and glued them into the club heads... not trying to be facetious but that’s all it takes. The wedge length shafts were pretty much the perfect length for the total length I wanted. 

If you want them at 6 iron length, may need to put extensions in the wedge-length shaft, if I remember my build process correctly. But if playing it at 37 inches or so, which is what I settled on, or you are using a shaft longer than wedge shafts, no extensions needed. Glue em, measure em, cut em down to what you need.
 

I also thought it was too simple to be realistic before I went for it, but it works great for me.

by the way, the seller you bought from should be cancelled. That’s some terrible shadiness right there. No way for them to justify all the different weights without a really up-front disclosure

 

Edited November 26, 2020 by extrastiff

[extrastiff]

2 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

Cobra has done some messed up things with the shafts on their one length sets - so I wouldn't be surprised if the different shaft weights were the way they came out of the factory.

 

But bottom line use whatever shaft is the best fit for you.   The one length concept doesn't change that at all.

 

If you want to play them at 7 iron lengths - then use the 7 iron shaft or use the 7 iron trim recommendations depending on if the shafts you choose are discrete length or single length blanks.   Most taper tip shafts and even some parallel tip shafts are discrete length and shouldn't normally be tip trimmed.  A different version of the shaft is manufactured for each iron.   In that case, if you want to play them at 7 iron length then you get 7 iron shafts (for all heads) and only butt trim to the desired length.    The other parallel tip shafts are only made as a single length blank that is tip trimmed based on which iron you want to install it in, then butt cut to the desired playing length.

 

DG x100's come in both parallel and tapered - so you have your choice but keep in mind that they are different shafts.  The parallel tip version is softer than the taper tip version.  So you might want to stick to the one you're used to or know has worked for you.

 

I didn’t realize there are .355 parallel tip shafts. Learn something new everyday. 
 

edit:I don’t think there is .355 parallel tips? So OP, for the forged one length, go taper tip .355
 

I know cobra does some nonsense, but I would be amazed if they put different weight, different labeled shafts. Sounds like a fleabay special

Edited November 26, 2020 by extrastiff

[HateTheHighDraw]

That setup with multiple shaft weights is stock for the f9s and SZ one lengths, I believe 

[extrastiff]

10 minutes ago, HateTheHighDraw said:

That setup with multiple shaft weights is stock for the f9s and SZ one lengths, I believe 

I don’t think that’s true, and it really would make no sense to do it that way imo.  Pretty sure they are supposed to be same weight, bought my grandad a set of f9, all same weight. 
 

did You get that info somewhere?

Edited November 26, 2020 by extrastiff

[HateTheHighDraw]

16 minutes ago, extrastiff said:

I don’t think that’s true, and it really would make no sense to do it that way imo.  Pretty sure they are supposed to be same weight, bought my grandad a set of f9, all same weight. 
 

did You get that info somewhere?

this is directly from the Cobra website for the SZ One Length

 

KBS TOUR 80 (STEEL)

The lightest shaft in the KBS Tour line and is designed for players seeking higher trajectory, additional spin and maximum distance. Featured in the ONE Length 4-6 irons.

KBS TOUR 90 (STEEL)

Designed for players seeking high trajectory, additional spin and maximum distance. Featured in the 7-9 irons.

KBS WEDGE (STEEL)

A heavier 120 gram wedge shaft is featured in the ONE Length PW-SW and promotes a lower ball flight for more precision around the green.

[Stuart_G]

1 hour ago, extrastiff said:

I didn’t realize there are .355 parallel tip shafts. Learn something new everyday. 
 

edit:I don’t think there is .355 parallel tips? So OP, for the forged one length, go taper tip .355
 

I know cobra does some nonsense, but I would be amazed if they put different weight, different labeled shafts. Sounds like a fleabay special

 

Prepare to be amazed 🙂

 

Yes there are no .355 parallel tip.  It's either .355 tapered or .370 parallel for irons.  My reference was that not all .370 parallel tip shafts are sold as single length shafts.  There are some .370 parallel tip shafts that come in discrete lengths (PX comes to mind as well as some graphite).

 

Also pretty sure the Cobra's use a universal hosel so the OP can use either type of shaft.

Edited November 26, 2020 by Stuart_G

[Stanks]

Wow. Lots of great info here. My only gripe about this whole thing is that I need to bring the sticks in a shop and have them worked in. I’m waiting for cobra to call me so I can get a feeling on how to approach which shaft I want to use. 

[Stanks]

4 hours ago, extrastiff said:

I bought x7 wedge shafts, and glued them into the club heads... not trying to be facetious but that’s all it takes. The wedge length shafts were pretty much the perfect length for the total length I wanted. 

If you want them at 6 iron length, may need to put extensions in the wedge-length shaft, if I remember my build process correctly. But if playing it at 37 inches or so, which is what I settled on, or you are using a shaft longer than wedge shafts, no extensions needed. Glue em, measure em, cut em down to what you need.
 

I also thought it was too simple to be realistic before I went for it, but it works great for me.

by the way, the seller you bought from should be cancelled. That’s some terrible shadiness right there. No way for them to justify all the different weights without a really up-front disclosure

 

Wedge lengths aren’t 37” though? Maybe I’m missing something there. Playing x7 wedge sound pretty stout

[Stuart_G]

1 hour ago, Stanks said:

Wedge lengths aren’t 37” though? Maybe I’m missing something there. Playing x7 wedge sound pretty stout

 

Shaft length and playing length are not the same thing.  The head can typically add 1" to 1.5" to the cut shaft length to get the playing length.

 

And yes, playing a wedge shaft at 7i lengths (and head weights) would result in the shaft being hard stepped x2 or x3 depending on how you look at it.  Not going to get any stiffer than that.

Edited November 26, 2020 by Stuart_G

[Stanks]

18 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Shaft length and playing length are not the same thing.  The head can typically add 1" to 1.5" to the cut shaft length to get the playing length.

 

And yes, playing a wedge shaft at 7i lengths (and head weights) would result in the shaft being hard stepped x2 or x3 depending on how you look at it.  Not going to get any stiffer than that.

Thanks man. I need to get on the horn with Cobra an iron this all out. I definitely don't have the tools and time to take care of it myself. I am basically looking to get X100s or S300s and hard stepped into my Forged Tours One Lengths. 

Question though, would I be able to buy a full set of shaft pulls from say a 4-P, have the longer irons cut down to P length and have them installed as such. 

The question immediately following that would be what the performance of the clubs would be. What good is a 4 iron if it's never more than 15 feet off the ground. We gotta get some stopping power there for approach play. Then, following that discussion, but maybe even before it is swing weights. I've use D3 / 4 in my irons as long as I can recall. Lead tape is a possibility but, if the shafts are shorter, I'm sure the SW will be much lower into the C range.

 

Lots of questions and thoughts need answering. I'm going to play them the way they are until I get some real definitions and hard answers delivered. I also have my Srixons Z-Forged that I really don't mind at all playing. 

[extrastiff]

11 hours ago, HateTheHighDraw said:

this is directly from the Cobra website for the SZ One Length

 

KBS TOUR 80 (STEEL)

The lightest shaft in the KBS Tour line and is designed for players seeking higher trajectory, additional spin and maximum distance. Featured in the ONE Length 4-6 irons.

KBS TOUR 90 (STEEL)

Designed for players seeking high trajectory, additional spin and maximum distance. Featured in the 7-9 irons.

KBS WEDGE (STEEL)

A heavier 120 gram wedge shaft is featured in the ONE Length PW-SW and promotes a lower ball flight for more precision around the green.

 

11 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

Prepare to be amazed 🙂

 

Yes there are no .355 parallel tip.  It's either .355 tapered or .370 parallel for irons.  My reference was that not all .370 parallel tip shafts are sold as single length shafts.  There are some .370 parallel tip shafts that come in discrete lengths (PX comes to mind as well as some graphite).

 

Also pretty sure the Cobra's use a universal hosel so the OP can use either type of shaft.

Oh ok just a ten gram difference, and the pw-sw significantly heavier. Still tho, I feel like a 30 gram jump is a lot for most of speedzone demographic, but I digress. 

anyways... a universal hosel? Now u have my interest. Any idea if the one length utility clubs are universal?

[Stuart_G]

20 hours ago, Stanks said:

Thanks man. I need to get on the horn with Cobra an iron this all out. I definitely don't have the tools and time to take care of it myself. I am basically looking to get X100s or S300s and hard stepped into my Forged Tours One Lengths. 

Question though, would I be able to buy a full set of shaft pulls from say a 4-P, have the longer irons cut down to P length and have them installed as such. 

 

I"m not really sure what you kind of helpful information you expect from Cobra, they're not going to have a clue as to what shaft will be the best fit for you.  You are the only one that can figure that out - whether you do the work yourself or get a fitter to help you.

 

No, you don't want to buy a set of 4-p pulls that are from a standard (not one length) set.    In a standard set, the lengths are all different, which means the head weights are different (to get const swing weight) and therefore the stiffness of each shaft is different to accommodate those changes in head weight in order to maintain a consistent stiffness feel through the set.   For a one length set, all the lengths are the same, so all the head weights are the same and so to get the same performance (and more importantly the same feel) from the shafts they should all be the same stiffness.

 

That means, as I mentioned before, you need 7 x 7i shafts, not one each of 4-P shafts.

 

Quote

The question immediately following that would be what the performance of the clubs would be. What good is a 4 iron if it's never more than 15 feet off the ground. We gotta get some stopping power there for approach play. Then, following that discussion, but maybe even before it is swing weights. I've use D3 / 4 in my irons as long as I can recall. Lead tape is a possibility but, if the shafts are shorter, I'm sure the SW will be much lower into the C range.

 

Don't make up problems that don't exist or make assumptions about what you'll get for specs or performance.  If you're concerned about swing weight, go measure them.  If you're concerned about the ball flight, go hit them first.   But heads in a single length set are not the same as heads in a standard set.  So the head weight should already be adjusted for the different playing lengths.

 

But yes, both shaft weight and swing weight can be very important as to the results you get.  If you're used 127 gm DG x100's then 80 and 90 gm or even 110 gm shafts could cause problems - both from the standpoint of weight and stiffness profile.   If the shafts currently in the set are a poor fit, then anything could happen as far as the results go.

 

 

13 hours ago, extrastiff said:

 

Oh ok just a ten gram difference, and the pw-sw significantly heavier. Still tho, I feel like a 30 gram jump is a lot for most of speedzone demographic, but I digress. 

anyways... a universal hosel? Now u have my interest. Any idea if the one length utility clubs are universal?

 

A 30 gm jump within a set is a big jump regardless of the demographic.

 

As for which heads have a universal hosel, this is the best resource I know of:

https://www.golfworks.com/images/art/Cobra.pdf

 

That is other than maybe contacting Cobra CS.

 

Edited November 27, 2020 by Stuart_G

[Stanks]

3 hours ago, Stuart_G said:

 

I"m not really sure what you kind of helpful information you expect from Cobra, they're not going to have a clue as to what shaft will be the best fit for you.  You are the only one that can figure that out - whether you do the work yourself or get a fitter to help you.

 

No, you don't want to buy a set of 4-p pulls that are from a standard (not one length) set.    In a standard set, the lengths are all different, which means the head weights are different (to get const swing weight) and therefore the stiffness of each shaft is different to accommodate those changes in head weight in order to maintain a consistent stiffness feel through the set.   For a one length set, all the lengths are the same, so all the head weights are the same and so to get the same performance (and more importantly the same feel) from the shafts they should all be the same stiffness.

 

That means, as I mentioned before, you need 7 x 7i shafts, not one each of 4-P shafts.

 

 

Don't make up problems that don't exist or make assumptions about what you'll get for specs or performance.  If you're concerned about swing weight, go measure them.  If you're concerned about the ball flight, go hit them first.   But heads in a single length set are not the same as heads in a standard set.  So the head weight should already be adjusted for the different playing lengths.

 

But yes, both shaft weight and swing weight can be very important as to the results you get.  If you're used 127 gm DG x100's then 80 and 90 gm or even 110 gm shafts could cause problems - both from the standpoint of weight and stiffness profile.   If the shafts currently in the set are a poor fit, then anything could happen as far as the results go.

 

 

 

A 30 gm jump within a set is a big jump regardless of the demographic.

 

As for which heads have a universal hosel, this is the best resource I know of:

https://www.golfworks.com/images/art/Cobra.pdf

 

That is other than maybe contacting Cobra CS.

 

Very nice. I don’t see myself being able to find a launch monitor or the time to get fit correctly back into a more familiar shaft but, that it the first step, I’m thinking. 
 

I see that the hosel is a “universal hosel” and I’ll look into that further. Basically , which ever set is cheaper.

[Stuart_G]

8 minutes ago, Stanks said:

Very nice. I don’t see myself being able to find a launch monitor or the time to get fit correctly back into a more familiar shaft but, that it the first step, I’m thinking. 
 

I see that the hosel is a “universal hosel” and I’ll look into that further. Basically , which ever set is cheaper.

 

You don't really need a launch monitor.  They're nice but not essential.  Just some time on a range to test out the feel and consistency of the results is what you need.    If you can't find any place to demo them, it might mean buying a single shaft to test out before you commit to it with the rest of the set.

 

But even without that, the best source of information is your own history of shafts you've used in the past.  What seemed to work well and what didn't.

Edited November 27, 2020 by Stuart_G

[Stanks]

20 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

You don't really need a launch monitor.  They're nice but not essential.  Just some time on a range to test out the feel and consistency of the results is what you need.    If you can't find any place to demo them, it might mean buying a single shaft to test out before you commit to it with the rest of the set.

 

But even without that, the best source of information is your own history of shafts you've used in the past.  What seemed to work well and what didn't.

Roger that. I actually think that’s the only route to go. It sucks because every dollar thrown at it is a risk and I’m trying to set these up so they’re my clubs for the next year. And you can’t find these Tour Forged Ones with anything but a KBS shaft. It’s ridiculous.

[ClubBuildRookie]

On 11/27/2020 at 9:09 AM, Stanks said:

Roger that. I actually think that’s the only route to go. It sucks because every dollar thrown at it is a risk and I’m trying to set these up so they’re my clubs for the next year. And you can’t find these Tour Forged Ones with anything but a KBS shaft. It’s ridiculous.

You might be luck.  I bought a set of 2020 Cobra Forged Tec Ones at the beginning of the season at a great price too off a Cobra Club Pro in NY who supposedly had the 2 sets of clubs given to him as comp clubs by Cobra.  He kept the variable length set and sold me the one length set thru eBay. I knew the shafts were gonna be too stiff for me but couldn’t beat the price just to get the set of heads.  Shafts in the clubs I bought were N.S Pro Modus3 Tour 120 S.  I hit some shots in the garage on a launch monitor but immediately pulled the shafts and never played them.  Not sure how that shaft compares to what you need but if its a shaft you’d like to try, send me a PM and we can work out a no risk try before you buy.  I have no use for the shafts and they need off my work bench.

[NRJyzr]

On 11/26/2020 at 9:06 AM, Stanks said:

Wedge lengths aren’t 37” though? Maybe I’m missing something there. Playing x7 wedge sound pretty stout

 

I'm kinda late to this party, but....

 

One thing you have to realize is that our x7 playing amigo is towards the beast end of the spectrum.  X7 suits him.  🙂

 

One thing to your advantage in this PITA situation is that you're now in a position to truly fine tune what you need.  If you're in the DG universe and looking to hardstep or softstep, depending on how many irons you've got, you're forced to make a compromise at one end or the other.  In this case, because you'll be using all the same iron shafts, you can hardstep or softstep something with impunity, because you're buying seven or eight (or however many) of the same shafts.

 

Stating the obvious, I'm thinking in dedicated shaft terms, like tapered DG.
 

Edited November 29, 2020 by NRJyzr

[Bullpride]

I know this thread is a bit old, but I am in a similar boat.  

 

The 8, 7, and 5i snapped at the hosel on my Speedzones.  They have the KBS Tour 80R and 90R (can confirm this is how they come stock).  I am interested in putting Tour 105 or 110 in the 5-9i  (or something comparable) but am having a hard time finding pulls that will work.  A normal set of pulls won't work, as the 8 and 9 would be too short.  These shafts are $40 new.  The speedzones would be a back up set, though I am make them the primary, as I am struggling finding the center of the face on the forged tecs.  

 

If anyone has pulls or knows where to get them (or something on the budget side of things that would work), please let me know. 

[extrastiff]

On 9/24/2021 at 8:52 AM, Bullpride said:

I know this thread is a bit old, but I am in a similar boat.  

 

The 8, 7, and 5i snapped at the hosel on my Speedzones.  They have the KBS Tour 80R and 90R (can confirm this is how they come stock).  I am interested in putting Tour 105 or 110 in the 5-9i  (or something comparable) but am having a hard time finding pulls that will work.  A normal set of pulls won't work, as the 8 and 9 would be too short.  These shafts are $40 new.  The speedzones would be a back up set, though I am make them the primary, as I am struggling finding the center of the face on the forged tecs.  

 

If anyone has pulls or knows where to get them (or something on the budget side of things that would work), please let me know. 

Forged tec one length? Just pull those heads and put the speedzones on those shafts if they fit.  
 

You will notice a lot of people on this thread concur a variable length set of shaft pulls is not the best route for a one length set of heads

u will have no problem selling the forged tec heads. In fact, pm me lol

 

all other paths are gonna cost you time and club-building effort/money. For example, you can source a bunch of similar flex/weight wedge shafts (regular flex 110 gram wedge shafts will fit a stiff profile player probably) . Extend them to desired length. 

probably not budget or efficient. 

Edited September 30, 2021 by extrastiff

[JCAG]

Over the years there were many that advocated shafts is a set of irons be different weights. Some did it early one with TT Dynalite in the longer irons, TT Lite in the mid-irons, and TT Dynamic in the shorter irons. True Temper came out with TT Black Gold. FM Precision came out with Rifle Flighted. I liked the principle but many clubmakers shied away from it (some put it down) as it required a larger inventory of shafts for replacements/repairs.