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Iron loft and distance question


rwhitlock

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Hello fellow addicts 🙂

 

Looking at the new Titleist T100's and I was wondering just how much of a difference 2* of loft makes on the T100S model?  I have the traditional lofts, so for example, my 7 iron is 34* and I carry it 175 (live and play at elevation in Utah).  With the T100S 7 iron it's listed at 32*.  Would that be 5 yards longer?  10?  Assuming the same shaft and swing speed.

 

Thanks in advance for any info / advice.

 

Rod

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1 hour ago, blam89 said:

Probably around 5-6 yards

 

This. My CB's are 1* strong and seem to be 2ish yards longer than my blades. Figure gaps are typically 4* = about 10 yards?

Haywood 1 with Fake Ventus Black 6S

Haywood 3W

Haywood 18* driving iron

Vato Skull MB irons 4-PW

KBS PGI 80g iron shafts

Mirua 51/10 and 55/12 wedges

Haywood mid mallet putter

Golf Pride Concept Helix grips 

 

"You're not good enough to get mad at your bad shots!" - Bill Murray

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I think, and will probably be wrong. But the t100s is designed for stronger lofts so they are bending the sole and messing with the bounce and offset. If the grind and sole is similar to the 620 cb, it is perfect as is

 

do you just need a few more yards from each club, or are you trying to bring spin and launch down?

Edited by naws-golfer
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Thank you for the replies.  I am good with my current setup with regards to distance.  The thought just popped into my head that if I had some stronger lofted clubs I could swing a bit easier (ie: smoother, better tempo, etc..) and still hit the same yardage.  End result being the same, but how I get there being a bit different.

 

Just wanted to see if 2* would really make much of a difference.  As pointed out, 4* seems to equal between 10 to 15 yards in my irons.

 

Thanks again,  Rod

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1 hour ago, naws-golfer said:

I think, and will probably be wrong. But the t100s is designed for stronger lofts so they are bending the sole and messing with the bounce and offset. If the grind and sole is similar to the 620 cb, it is perfect as is

 

do you just need a few more yards from each club, or are you trying to bring spin and launch down?

Actually, according to Titleist the offset is the same on the T100 and T100S, but as you pointed out the lofts are stronger on the T100S. You have the go to the Custom Options/Specs page under the Clubs section to see it. All clubs are listed there, but here are the T100 and T100S offset specs:

 

Screen Shot 2021-06-22 at 10.36.54 PM.png

Edited by Sons_of_Pitches

DRIVER - CALLAWAY Elyte X 9*

MINI-DRIVER - CALLAWAY Elyte 11.5

FAIRWAY WOODS - PING G430 18*

HYBRIDS - PXG 0311 Black OPs 22* and 25*

IRONS - MIZUNO PRO 245 [6i- GW]

WEDGES - MIZUNO T22 54.08 / 58.08 / 62.08

PUTTER - CALLAWAY SQ-2-SQ Jailbird Broomstick

PXG 0317 X

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48 minutes ago, Sons_of_Pitches said:

Actually, according to Titleist the offset is the same on the T100 and T100S, but as you pointed out the lofts are stronger on the T100S. You have the go to the Custom Options/Specs page under the Clubs section to see it. All clubs are listed there, but here are the T100 and T100S offset specs:

 

Screen Shot 2021-06-22 at 10.36.54 PM.png


You must be fun at parties…..

 

 

Sorry, I fat fingered it, and “are” should’ve been “aren’t.”  My point was, If you were to bend the t100 2* strong you would be adding bounce and offset. Which would play very differently than the t100 sole.
 

Titleist have done this with other clubs in the past. If you ordered 2* upright irons, some models were forged in that lie angle, rather than trying to bend them After. I know for sure the TMB range was done this way.

Edited by naws-golfer
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51 minutes ago, rwhitlock said:

Thank you for the replies.  I am good with my current setup with regards to distance.  The thought just popped into my head that if I had some stronger lofted clubs I could swing a bit easier (ie: smoother, better tempo, etc..) and still hit the same yardage.  End result being the same, but how I get there being a bit different.

 

Just wanted to see if 2* would really make much of a difference.  As pointed out, 4* seems to equal between 10 to 15 yards in my irons.

 

Thanks again,  Rod

Spin is most directly Related to loft, as I understand it. You would be losing spin, but gaining ball speed. I would imagine with some irons it would be a welcome change with some clubs but there would be a point where it would become an issue. The difference in spin would be 700-800 RPM with 2* loft change.

 

descent angles being in a good window will be the biggest factor in holding greens or not.

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8 hours ago, lefthack said:

 Figure gaps are typically 4* = about 10 yards?

 

That's going to depend a lot on the swing speed so probably a bit more than 10 yard for the OP if the traditional lofted 7i goes 175.    So quick guess is that 2* for the OP would be  6-7 yards.

 

 

5 hours ago, naws-golfer said:

My point was, If you were to bend the t100 2* strong you would be adding bounce and offset. Which would play very differently than the t100 sole.

 

 

Everyone is different and extreme turf conditions might play a small part but for the vast majority of ams (and some pros as well) a 2* change in bounce would not be noticeable or effect performance - nor would the change in offset.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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Full disclosure: 

 

Last year I originally bought the T100-S model and had them shafted with KBS $-Taper lites (I had been playing the $-Taper).  The Lites were 105g and the original ones were 120g.  I noticed the ball would go quite a bit further than my 718 AP2's and never did get used to the gapping on the lower end of the set.  I chalked it up to stronger lofting a lighter shaft and my swing speeds more than likely increased with the lighter ones.  The ball flight seemed to be a bit higher when actually playing on the course.

 

I traded them back in (love the 90 day return policy 🙂 ) and got the T100 with the same shaft as my AP2's ($-Taper) and the distances were pretty much spot on with the AP2's.   I've loved them ever since then.  Now that the new ones have been announced, I'm *considering* a move back to the S model, and keeping the same $-Taper shaft.

 

Thanks for the info and advice.   Rod

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