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370 shaft on a 382 flare post?


Phabs

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I’m assuming the spud on the putter head will need to be cut down to accept the 370 straight tip?

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Not sure.  I’m just going to end up modifying the spud down to a 370 diameter shaft.  Not that big of a deal, 20 minutes on a grinding wheel.  

Cobra Aerojet 9* - LAGP A Series X Mid 

Cobra LTDX 3W - Tensei 1K 75 TX 

New Level 18* KBS Tour Prototype 105X / Cobra LTDX 5w - Tensei Black 85 TX

Artisan HM's / Custom Nike VR Pro Blades - 6.5 Project X Blackouts

Bridgestone Rusty J15 MB /CB's - Accra Tzi 115's

Mizuno T22 Copper 50/54 - Project X Blackout 7.0 Spinners

Vokey 58 T Grind - Project X 6.5 Blackout

Artisan 0521 w/ LAGP 135  / Compass G.O.A.T  w/ LAGP135 / LegacyGoods Widebody w/ KBS One Step / Byron DH89 w/ LAGP135 / Cameron Studio 1.5 w/ UST All in

Bridgestone Tour BXS 

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I modified mine on my Santa Fe to take a fluted Bullseye shaft---- I took the time to hand sand using emory cloth and carefully checking the fit. Turned out fine. I did check the difference of Spud sizes with my calipers and I think it was like .015 or something like that

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Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

Irons 5 thru 9 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

PW-- 1962 Macgregor FC-400 11 iron Pro Pel 2 shaft

SW -- Callaway Mac Daddy 52* 

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Ping Zing 2 SS Fluted Bulls Eye shaft

Down to only 11 clubs playing the best since my accident

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2 hours ago, BIG STU said:

I modified mine on my Santa Fe to take a fluted Bullseye shaft---- I took the time to hand sand using emory cloth and carefully checking the fit. Turned out fine. I did check the difference of Spud sizes with my calipers and I think it was like .015 or something like that

Yep that’ll be my plan.  I’ve got a grinding wheel that should knock it out

Edited by Phabs

Cobra Aerojet 9* - LAGP A Series X Mid 

Cobra LTDX 3W - Tensei 1K 75 TX 

New Level 18* KBS Tour Prototype 105X / Cobra LTDX 5w - Tensei Black 85 TX

Artisan HM's / Custom Nike VR Pro Blades - 6.5 Project X Blackouts

Bridgestone Rusty J15 MB /CB's - Accra Tzi 115's

Mizuno T22 Copper 50/54 - Project X Blackout 7.0 Spinners

Vokey 58 T Grind - Project X 6.5 Blackout

Artisan 0521 w/ LAGP 135  / Compass G.O.A.T  w/ LAGP135 / LegacyGoods Widebody w/ KBS One Step / Byron DH89 w/ LAGP135 / Cameron Studio 1.5 w/ UST All in

Bridgestone Tour BXS 

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11 hours ago, BIG STU said:

I modified mine on my Santa Fe to take a fluted Bullseye shaft---- I took the time to hand sand using emory cloth and carefully checking the fit. Turned out fine. I did check the difference of Spud sizes with my calipers and I think it was like .015 or something like that

Stu,

Did you use a parallel tip Bullseye fluted shaft or the flared model?  I know that there is a fairly significant difference in very late flare tips, but it's usually pretty small, when you go back 15-20 years.  The new ones have a more drastic taper than the old school Bullseye putters.  For a while, I had a really good supply of original Bullseye shafts from the auction that took place when Acushnet moved the Bullseye plant from S. Phoenix to Southern California.   I think they lasted me about 6-7 years.  Nothing like the feel of those original shafts. 

Once, I had a friend bring me his Scotty Cameron Classic 2 for some work.  At some point, he had decided that a parallel tip shaft was a good switch and his club guy had ground down the flared stub to take a .370 tip "more modern" shaft.  It made me cringe, but with some welding and slow/steady work on a belt sander, I was able to save it and leave very little evidence that it had ever been butchered.

The mention of a grinding wheel makes me nervous, but if you have faith in the steadiness of your hands, the work is all yours.  

As to why a putter maker would use the flare tip, its all about the feel.  We all know that "feel" is hugely personal, so it will vary from player to player.  A lot of the old school players will tell you that there is nothing as pure feeling as the original flare tip or the feel of a Head Speed shaft in an original 8802.   I am in that school, so it makes sense to me.  New generations seem to look for less torque, more rigidity and who am I to argue.  Feel is feel.  Blondes or brunettes.  Ford or Chevy.   All in the same arena, IMHO. 

Love the topic and hope that it continues to be discussed.

 

LaMont in AZ

 

PS, what about a .355 shaft that has flutes, just like the Bullseye?  Would that be a good thing or bad?  Not worth a new topic, but what are your thoughts?

 

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6 hours ago, golfluvzme said:

Stu,

Did you use a parallel tip Bullseye fluted shaft or the flared model?  I know that there is a fairly significant difference in very late flare tips, but it's usually pretty small, when you go back 15-20 years.  The new ones have a more drastic taper than the old school Bullseye putters.  For a while, I had a really good supply of original Bullseye shafts from the auction that took place when Acushnet moved the Bullseye plant from S. Phoenix to Southern California.   I think they lasted me about 6-7 years.  Nothing like the feel of those original shafts. 

Once, I had a friend bring me his Scotty Cameron Classic 2 for some work.  At some point, he had decided that a parallel tip shaft was a good switch and his club guy had ground down the flared stub to take a .370 tip "more modern" shaft.  It made me cringe, but with some welding and slow/steady work on a belt sander, I was able to save it and leave very little evidence that it had ever been butchered.

The mention of a grinding wheel makes me nervous, but if you have faith in the steadiness of your hands, the work is all yours.  

As to why a putter maker would use the flare tip, its all about the feel.  We all know that "feel" is hugely personal, so it will vary from player to player.  A lot of the old school players will tell you that there is nothing as pure feeling as the original flare tip or the feel of a Head Speed shaft in an original 8802.   I am in that school, so it makes sense to me.  New generations seem to look for less torque, more rigidity and who am I to argue.  Feel is feel.  Blondes or brunettes.  Ford or Chevy.   All in the same arena, IMHO. 

Love the topic and hope that it continues to be discussed.

 

LaMont in AZ

 

PS, what about a .355 shaft that has flutes, just like the Bullseye?  Would that be a good thing or bad?  Not worth a new topic, but what are your thoughts?

 

I used an older fluted shaft. I hand sanded my Spud very carefully with emory clorth. I would hit it a couple of rounds and then check the fit. Oh I shudder at the thought of using a power tool of any knid on that. Yep for me it is all about the feel. I went through 3 different shafts before I found the exact one I liked the feel of. Yep I am an old school feel player and for me it is all about the feel.

 

On the .355 thing it would be a good thing depending on how it feels for the individual. My bud the Miura dealer ( now retired) turned me on to using Sensicore shafts on like Anser styled plumber neck putters. I did a TM Rosa Daytona like that a few years back and that putter has a great feel too. As far as Anser style it is the 3rd putter in rotation behind the Santa Fe and a Zing 2 which incidently has a fluted Bulls Eye shaft too. IMHO there is no clear cut right or wrong on conversions like this it is just what feels good to an individual and they can putt with

Driver--- Callaway Big Bertha Alpha--- Speeder 565 R flex

7W --- TM V Steel UST Pro Force 65 R flex

Irons 5 thru 9 1985 Macgregor VIP Hogan Apex #2 shafts

PW-- 1962 Macgregor FC-400 11 iron Pro Pel 2 shaft

SW -- Callaway Mac Daddy 52* 

LW Vokey SM5 L Grind 58* 04 bounce Stock Vokey Shaft

Putter -- Ping Zing 2 SS Fluted Bulls Eye shaft

Down to only 11 clubs playing the best since my accident

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