Fittings for Tall Golfers

[Clemente80]

Hi - I’ve done a bunch of fittings and have come across an annoying trend - fitting companies don’t always have iron shafts in non-standard lengths. For example, I have been close to ordering a set of T100 or Zx7 but I’ve gotten different shaft recommendations depending on the fitter, which have ranged from Nippon NS Pro 850, 950 Neo, Modus 105, DG 105, and AMT Red. The problem is that Some places won’t have a certain shaft in a plus 1” shaft. So although I really like Modus 105 in my wedges, and they were recommended during a Ping fitting for the i230, I haven’t been able to test Modus 105 with the T100. I liked DG 105 with Mizuno 223, but that fitter didn’t use universal adapters so I couldn’t try DG 105 in plus 1” with the T100 or Zx7. I liked Steelfiber 95, but can’t try Neo 950.
 

What is the solution? Call ahead to see if they have a specific shaft combinations that I know I want to test? What if there is a shaft I hadn’t thought of, like MMT? At this point, I’m thinking of flying out to Carlsbad and hitting up Titleist’s fitting center. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

For what it’s worth, I’m 6’3” with long legs and standard arms. I’m usually get fit into plus 1” but I realize I’ve been fit into plus 1/2 or plus 3/4 when fitters don’t have a plus 1 in the particular shaft I want.

[BallerNate]

Yeah, I’m 6’7 and went through the same thing.
 

I did fittings for Driver, irons/wedges, and putter with 2 different fitters, and the lack of longer shaft options for irons and wedges was extremely frustrating.

 

For me pretty much all the shafts I was testing were +1”, but was fitted into +1.5” and 2* upright despite them only have ONE shaft at their location that was actually +1.5”!?

 

And on top of that, their only +1.5” shaft was some type of X-Stiff shaft that was probably in the 140g range and felt like I was swinging an 8 foot lead pipe! 😳🤣

 

Through a lot of trial & error, and wasting lots of money on clubs that weren’t properly adjusted, I discovered that +1.5” and 2* Up was too long for me and too upright. I’ve got very long arms (6’11 wingspan), and it was very difficult to make proper contact with those specs.

 

If I had been able to actually test shafts my fitter was recommending in the length and lie angle, ideally that error wouldn’t have happened.

 

Through self-diagnosis and testing, I’m now hitting +1” and 1-degree Upright with muuuuuuch better results and contact.

[Jc0]

I've played everything from +.5 to +2. If the shaft works at standard fairly well it should still work at longer lengths as well. What you will see if that spin and ball flight will increase so if any of those seem high I would go a flex up from what you tested at standard. Also tend to lean stiffer in shaft choice.

 

If your looking to buy a full set your best bet is to order one club at the specs you want and see how it does. If it doesn't feel right return it and try something else. If it does order the full set. 

[KnoxvilleReb]

I did a PXG fitting and they had their standard offerings up to +1.5 inches, but not sure about premium shafts. The next fitting I do will be at Club Champion as their setup looks the most extensive of options i've researched. Not sure if they carry additional lengths but if anyone does I bet it's a shop that has that kind of setup.

[OnTheBag]

10 minutes ago, Jc0 said:

I've played everything from +.5 to +2. If the shaft works at standard fairly well it should still work at longer lengths as well. What you will see if that spin and ball flight will increase so if any of those seem high I would go a flex up from what you tested at standard. Also tend to lean stiffer in shaft choice.

 

If your looking to buy a full set your best bet is to order one club at the specs you want and see how it does. If it doesn't feel right return it and try something else. If it does order the full set. 

This is good information.  I am 6'5" and have played mostly +1/2" for most of my career.  As I've gotten old, I've moved to +3/4" and +1" to relieve some back strain.  Despite my age, I still play stiff shafts.  The longer shaft and swing arc will generate more deflection.  

[Albatross Dreamer]

Been thinking about this as I'm taller as well. Wonder how much of it is mental as well, since it really only changes your longest and perhaps shortest irons in the sense that you already have that length in a normal set provided it's only a 1/2" difference. Meaning, the 7 iron is the length of your old 6 iron, or vice versa. But obviously for your 4 iron (or 5 or whatever) along with your PW/GW that's where the length change wouldn't match a different set. Because of this I wonder if lie is really the bigger variable in terms of small changes due to the effect on posture, particularly with the shorter clubs. But I'm no club expert.

[enfuego]

Don't overlook how the swing weight changes as you extend length. +3 SW points per +1/2". Some shafts have higher balance points or lower weight to help. Only a few companies have lighter head weight options to help lower the swing weight as well, mizuno and PXG gen 4 for example. Mizuno will use lighter b weight heads for all orders +1/2" or more unless requested differently. Not sure if PXG will build with lighter weights but you can buy some after. Most of the mizuno b weight heads are 7-10g lighter and use tip weights to get back to D3 or requested swing weight if needed. Steel fiber 110 and LA golf L series are a few that have higher balance points that will reduce SW ~2-3 points. 

 

Most Taylormade heads have hosel bullet weights that can be pulled if the stock build ends up too heavy. 

[MMB1500]

I'm not sure if it's widely known but Srixon also use lighter "B" head weights. I believe you have to specifically request them though, whereas I think Mizuno use them by default on all builds over +.5". 

Edited December 27, 2022 by MMB1500

[Albatross Dreamer]

15 minutes ago, enfuego said:

Don't overlook how the swing weight changes as you extend length. +3 SW points per +1/2". Some shafts have higher balance points or lower weight to help. Only a few companies have lighter head weight options to help lower the swing weight as well, mizuno and PXG gen 4 for example. Mizuno will use lighter b weight heads for all orders +1/2" or more unless requested differently. Not sure if PXG will build with lighter weights but you can buy some after. Most of the mizuno b weight heads are 7-10g lighter and use tip weights to get back to D3 or requested swing weight if needed. Steel fiber 110 and LA golf L series are a few that have higher balance points that will reduce SW ~2-3 points. 

 

Most Taylormade heads have hosel bullet weights that can be pulled if the stock build ends up too heavy. 

If you choke up on the club does that knock the swing weight back down, or does it stay the same regardless?

[enfuego]

2 minutes ago, Albatross Dreamer said:

If you choke up on the club does that knock the swing weight back down, or does it stay the same regardless?

I think that is a decent way to simulate it but maybe not as much as a change lower on the club. When I've tried to test lengths and swing weights I've found swing weight is more about the heft of the club below the 14" fulcrum point. The most impactful for me has been head weight, then shaft balance point and then shaft weight.

 

Also using a heavier grip will only trick the scale and not provide as much relief when swinging. The swing weight scale was designed to use a 50g grip.

[Ivyguy]

I am 6’4” with long arms. 
 

I have found the best specs for me are.5” long and 1 up. 
 

Heavy stiff shafts work the best (PX 6.0 or s400). Not ultra stiff but allow me to miss. 
 

I have bad posture though, but I’m not a pro so I make do. 
 

It’s just a pain to go through the brain damage of a total fitting. I’ve also learned how to make them work for me. 

[Jc0]

5 hours ago, Albatross Dreamer said:

Been thinking about this as I'm taller as well. Wonder how much of it is mental as well, since it really only changes your longest and perhaps shortest irons in the sense that you already have that length in a normal set provided it's only a 1/2" difference. Meaning, the 7 iron is the length of your old 6 iron, or vice versa. But obviously for your 4 iron (or 5 or whatever) along with your PW/GW that's where the length change wouldn't match a different set. Because of this I wonder if lie is really the bigger variable in terms of small changes due to the effect on posture, particularly with the shorter clubs. But I'm no club expert.

 

This is why head weights are important. You club now may be the same length as the longer iron but the head is heavier. This will dramatically affect how your body controls it. You don't want to lighten the head weight to much for the extra length for this reason. If you lighten it to much you loose the effect of lengthening the club, this is why lighter shafts and counterbalancing can be necessary for swing weight rather than just removing weight from the head.

[HandsomeMatt]

 It's tough being fit for irons when 'stock' doesn't work, especially if you're going overlength and most places aren't set up or take all aspects into consideration. I'm 6'3 with long arms and couldn't tell you what my specs are because I build all my own stuff now and throw what 'standard' is out the window before I even begin a build. Being a recovering club ho I've figured out my ideal lengths and lies through probably over a hundred builds through the years. I had an ideal set put together a few years ago and everything since then is roughly a duplicate, my own standard.

        I wasted a lot of materials and flipped a ton of iron sets but there are certain things you kind of have to look for if you're building something over stock and especially if you're buying used and building yourself, one thing I cant recommend highly enough is this https://www.golfworks.com/value-line-golf-club-bending-machine/p/vam/ . If you're going to a flatter lie its a little easier to use but you can really tweak things to make huge adjustments.I think I see more people hitting bad shots because of the wrong lie angles or ill fitting clubs than anything, once I dialed in my lies it was like a revelation as to how much easier it was to improve. I am taking out those tip weights on everything usually and paying closer attention to stock swingweights on factory specs. Going to an 'L' head isn't always an option and the few times I did I wasn't really happy either. 

[Clemente80]

Lots of important points about swing weight.  Right now the frontrunner for me is the T100 - do they come in a B weight head, like Mizuno and apparently Srixon?  I was most recently fitted with a T100 and Nippon NS Pro 850, but Club Champion doesn't have B weight heads, so maybe the combination of plus 1", lighter shaft, and standard head works.  Or would I be better off with plus 1", slightly heavier shaft (e.g., Modus 105 or DG 105), and a B weight head?  The last two irons sets were overlength Mizuno sets with B weight heads, but I haven't had a problem hitting the T100 6 or 7 iron in fittings.  I realize I'm overthinking things and I can probably make anything from 85 to 105 grams work, but I want to be properly fitted!

[enfuego]

7 minutes ago, Clemente80 said:

Lots of important points about swing weight.  Right now the frontrunner for me is the T100 - do they come in a B weight head, like Mizuno and apparently Srixon?  I was most recently fitted with a T100 and Nippon NS Pro 850, but Club Champion doesn't have B weight heads, so maybe the combination of plus 1", lighter shaft, and standard head works.  Or would I be better off with plus 1", slightly heavier shaft (e.g., Modus 105 or DG 105), and a B weight head?  The last two irons sets were overlength Mizuno sets with B weight heads, but I haven't had a problem hitting the T100 6 or 7 iron in fittings.  I realize I'm overthinking things and I can probably make anything from 85 to 105 grams work, but I want to be properly fitted!

The nspro 850gh has a higher balance point and is light weight so a standard head weight might be needed to still hit something around d3.