Old Ping Putters

[ezgoer]

6 hours ago, ColinKelvin said:

Edit 

Edited September 23, 2024 by ezgoer

[ezgoer]

6 hours ago, ColinKelvin said:

If you mean the nice collection in your picture above, they are definitely all MgBrz - because none of those models were ever released in BeCu (Pal 2, Zing 2 and a Scottsdale Anser remake were BeCu releases, but not the OG models you have).

Thank you. Constantly learning i know less than I think.

[ezgoer]

5 hours ago, JungleJimbo said:

 

"+1" on BeCu = not magnetic (but Manganese Bronze "MnBrz" can be weakly magnetic)

 

@ezgoer: What sort of magnet did you use? I prefer a super-strong neodymium magnet (can be found cheap on amazon), to test on these putters i.e. otherwise might not prove/dis-prove whether the putter metal is magnetic or not.  

 

...p/s: I've just re-tested my neodymium magnet on my collection of Manganese Bronze putters

e.g. Anser 2, Scottsdale Anser re-issue with the sound slot, etc (and they didn't stick to the putter head per-se ... albeit did stick to the steel wheel-weights i stuck to the putter cavity! 

 

So the MnBz magnet test = not fool-proof / can depend on the specific batch of putters/ their metal composition!

eg The magnets immediately clung to my 2014 Ping "Karsten TR" Zing (and it was an effort to pull away the magnets).

 

 

 

Thank you, I just grabbed the strongest magnet off the fridge. It really sticks to a plain old Pal2 I have.

[tripanfal]

Ok, a little post just on Ping putter identification and buying - here’s a summary of my notes as I have been working on getting this together this year - hope it’s helpful to y’all as it wouldn’t exist without your help. Caveat emptor.
 

Manganese Bronze : 

New/stripped: Bright yellow gold color, usually a textured surface but occasionally polished (Bronze J Blade for example)

Old: Can be black, brown, reddish,  bright yellow, or any combinations thereof naturally - can be near anything if someone is handy and access to a chemical supply website. May have green, white, or reddish streaking/oxidation particularly around fill paint. Even oxidized has a visible texture usually - fuzzier than becu.
Magnetism: Generally lightly magnetic, occasionally not noticeable with a standard fridge magnet.

Best way I have found to identify them visually if the patina is ambiguous is to look for a ding/scratch and see if it’s yellow underneath - if you have it and a ball they make a pretty identifiable sound - it’s has a click and a resonance to the sound the others don’t.

 

Stainless Steel:

New: Shiny light gray, dark gray, Black, foggy/goldish gray. Usually a rough finish with some pitting and spalling from the casting process. 
Old: the same with some rust spots. 
Magnetism: Magnetic but to a varying degree, magnet releases easier from stainless than from beni. (I am thinking about the third Anser 4 I bought thinking it might be Beni but it was just Gyson in a warm light - it was far to lightly magnetic which gave it away)

Generally easiest to confuse with the Beni; but I have often seen Black Oxide editions billed as Becu for sale - but the flat black of the matte oxide is slightly smoother than the bronze visually and pretty distinct side by side.

 

Beryllium Copper

New/stripped: bright shiny copper colored, smoother surface finish and less evidence of the casting.

Old: Brown, Red, Black or any combination of the three, higher luster even patinated than the bronze. 
 

Easiest, relatively, to ID but that is only because it’s actually tricky for all of them. I have been fooled personally the most by original run Pals (once looking at one in a bag) and A blades - which can have a deep brown patinas as well. Also, I have seen bronze heads that have been stripped, tumbled, and repatinated with a catalyst that browns them - and I generally stay away from them as I can’t id them at all - any combo of material or patina additive. Scratch/ding will have reddish hue from the uncovered material. Non magnetic.

 

Beryllium Nickel (in the Becu pics - 2 on the right)

 

New: Slightly lighter grey with gold hue, dark grey with sparkle, mirror with gold hue.

Old: Depends on new - lighter color gets dirty/cloudy and can look exactly like Gyson, dark grey gets dirty/cloudy and can look exactly like stainless, and I can’t afford a PLD Slam 1988 edition unless I sell my truck so I don’t know about the shiny one. Strongly magnetic. 
 

Notes for squinting at bad cell phone pics of putters at 3am:

Zoom in first. Look around any stampings, bag chatter, or dings for rust or variation in the patina. If you see rust it’s most likely stainless. If you see green/white streaks or blobs it could be becu or bronze but it’s pretty surely not anything else - except it could also easily be a Beni and the fill paint is the source of the discoloration. 
Zoom out. Look for the shaft band. Is it green? Good luck brother that’s Pacific market - different things apply there and I’m staying out of those weeds. Is the shaft original/ping/true temper/titanium/graphite? Stepped or Stepless? In my mind if it has a special shaft or I can see a neat drill hole evidencing a reshafting then I know this was a special putter - one someone put some thought into buying or preserving - not just a Toyota but a Lexus. 
Does it have the original grip? I would rather see 83% of the original grip on a putter than the new grip I would want to game on it  - my gut feeling on the head material of the putter is probably right if the shaft and grip are original and I don’t feel as bad about cutting off a grip if it’s already partially gone. 

The example pics I added by no means run the gamut - they are there to show how much variation there can be in the same material in the same light with the same kinda crappy camera phone with no filters. If the background was brown or tan, my basement lights a warmer color temperature, all of these putters would look completely different. Like I said, it’s tricky. 

Edited September 23, 2024 by tripanfal
Copy paste mistakes

[tripanfal]

I’ve tricked myself enough times to look up all the above information on here many times, and quite a lot of it comes directly from ColinKelvin so a particular thanks there.

[ColinKelvin]

I thought this might be of interest to fellow Old Ping Putter lovers.  Here's the weight of an OG Scottsdale Anser head (I daresay they might have varied by a gram or two here and there as they were hand ground).

[Maine Golfer]

Whatever works for each player but when I think of old Ping blades I think lead tape, lead tape, lead tape! 

 

 

[NRJyzr]

One of my golf buds picked up an 8813 recently.  Playing it at 33½" or so, and did not add tape to it.  He let me use it for a couple putts on the practice green, I found I liked it quite a bit more than I'd have thought.

 

Which brings me to why I'm talking about this in a Ping putter thread.  I have an Anser3 that I've used a bit, added some lead tape, felt it's still pretty light.  After the aforementioned effort with the friend's 8813, I took the Anser3 on the course for a few rounds.  Found I was putting better with it than the more modern 340g-350g putters.

 

Thinking I may find myself going lighter, and maybe picking up another classic Ping to go along with my Anser3.

 

[Fellaheen51]

On 9/23/2024 at 12:09 PM, tripanfal said:

Ok, a little post just on Ping putter identification and buying - here’s a summary of my notes as I have been working on getting this together this year - hope it’s helpful to y’all as it wouldn’t exist without your help. Caveat emptor.
 

Manganese Bronze : 

New/stripped: Bright yellow gold color, usually a textured surface but occasionally polished (Bronze J Blade for example)

Old: Can be black, brown, reddish,  bright yellow, or any combinations thereof naturally - can be near anything if someone is handy and access to a chemical supply website. May have green, white, or reddish streaking/oxidation particularly around fill paint. Even oxidized has a visible texture usually - fuzzier than becu.
Magnetism: Generally lightly magnetic, occasionally not noticeable with a standard fridge magnet.

Best way I have found to identify them visually if the patina is ambiguous is to look for a ding/scratch and see if it’s yellow underneath - if you have it and a ball they make a pretty identifiable sound - it’s has a click and a resonance to the sound the others don’t.

 

Stainless Steel:

New: Shiny light gray, dark gray, Black, foggy/goldish gray. Usually a rough finish with some pitting and spalling from the casting process. 
Old: the same with some rust spots. 
Magnetism: Magnetic but to a varying degree, magnet releases easier from stainless than from beni. (I am thinking about the third Anser 4 I bought thinking it might be Beni but it was just Gyson in a warm light - it was far to lightly magnetic which gave it away)

Generally easiest to confuse with the Beni; but I have often seen Black Oxide editions billed as Becu for sale - but the flat black of the matte oxide is slightly smoother than the bronze visually and pretty distinct side by side.

 

Beryllium Copper

New/stripped: bright shiny copper colored, smoother surface finish and less evidence of the casting.

Old: Brown, Red, Black or any combination of the three, higher luster even patinated than the bronze. 
 

Easiest, relatively, to ID but that is only because it’s actually tricky for all of them. I have been fooled personally the most by original run Pals (once looking at one in a bag) and A blades - which can have a deep brown patinas as well. Also, I have seen bronze heads that have been stripped, tumbled, and repatinated with a catalyst that browns them - and I generally stay away from them as I can’t id them at all - any combo of material or patina additive. Scratch/ding will have reddish hue from the uncovered material. Non magnetic.

 

Beryllium Nickel (in the Becu pics - 2 on the right)

 

New: Slightly lighter grey with gold hue, dark grey with sparkle, mirror with gold hue.

Old: Depends on new - lighter color gets dirty/cloudy and can look exactly like Gyson, dark grey gets dirty/cloudy and can look exactly like stainless, and I can’t afford a PLD Slam 1988 edition unless I sell my truck so I don’t know about the shiny one. Strongly magnetic. 
 

Notes for squinting at bad cell phone pics of putters at 3am:

Zoom in first. Look around any stampings, bag chatter, or dings for rust or variation in the patina. If you see rust it’s most likely stainless. If you see green/white streaks or blobs it could be becu or bronze but it’s pretty surely not anything else - except it could also easily be a Beni and the fill paint is the source of the discoloration. 
Zoom out. Look for the shaft band. Is it green? Good luck brother that’s Pacific market - different things apply there and I’m staying out of those weeds. Is the shaft original/ping/true temper/titanium/graphite? Stepped or Stepless? In my mind if it has a special shaft or I can see a neat drill hole evidencing a reshafting then I know this was a special putter - one someone put some thought into buying or preserving - not just a Toyota but a Lexus. 
Does it have the original grip? I would rather see 83% of the original grip on a putter than the new grip I would want to game on it  - my gut feeling on the head material of the putter is probably right if the shaft and grip are original and I don’t feel as bad about cutting off a grip if it’s already partially gone. 

The example pics I added by no means run the gamut - they are there to show how much variation there can be in the same material in the same light with the same kinda crappy camera phone with no filters. If the background was brown or tan, my basement lights a warmer color temperature, all of these putters would look completely different. Like I said, it’s tricky. 

 

Maybe you've seen these, maybe not.  Supplemental and tidbits of information on OS Ping putters.  The first was authored by Mark Conner, who wrote the eBay buyers guide for Pings (IIRC).  He posted it on the OSP FB group some time back.  

 

The second is the Kenneth "Lumpy" Uselton compilation that was made available in the public domain. Full credit to both, all I did was save them.  

 

Ping Putter Collector.pdf

 

ping-collectibles-manual.pdf

 

[Fellaheen51]

8 hours ago, NRJyzr said:

One of my golf buds picked up an 8813 recently.  Playing it at 33½" or so, and did not add tape to it.  He let me use it for a couple putts on the practice green, I found I liked it quite a bit more than I'd have thought.

 

Which brings me to why I'm talking about this in a Ping putter thread.  I have an Anser3 that I've used a bit, added some lead tape, felt it's still pretty light.  After the aforementioned effort with the friend's 8813, I took the Anser3 on the course for a few rounds.  Found I was putting better with it than the more modern 340g-350g putters.

 

Thinking I may find myself going lighter, and maybe picking up another classic Ping to go along with my Anser3.

 

 

Have done the same.  Using a lighter classic Ping on the late season slow greens.  Rather than the customary ~370g putters (Ping Sigma G Tyne H, Maltby PTM-4).  In my case, a SS B60 with a lot of lead tape (1" = 2g variety) added on the sole and wrapped around the shaft at the hosel.  Kinda like it for these slow greens.  Seemed to lag putt better with the lighter head.  IDK, don't need a logical justification, other than whim and fancy,  to try something different.  

 

Gave an A3 to my main golf bud.  Assuming it head weighted ~315g.  We taped U.S. Nickels (5g) to the head until he thought it felt good.  Then poured 30g of lead powder down the shaft and corked it.  Plus added an extension out to 36" (He's taller with a troublesome back.)  He likes it, been making more putts than what he used prior.  This is something I did with my BeCu A2 when I didn't want lead tape mussing up the curb appeal.  Some may argue that it changes balance and the "feels", weight down the shaft at the hosel.  IDK.  Once it's weighted up, sorta forget about it.  

 

Can't putt worth a lick with a heel shafted putter (8802, 8813, etc.).  Plumber's neck is my preference.  Plus a head style that allows me to scoop up my 3 putt gimmes without bending over.  😡 😁

 

Maybe you're a candidate to try an OS Ping Sedona.  Heel shafted and lots of surface area to add tape.  

 

 

Edited November 5, 2024 by Fellaheen51

[tripanfal]

3 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

Maybe you've seen these, maybe not.  Supplemental and tidbits of information on OS Ping putters.  The first was authored by Mark Conner, who wrote the eBay buyers guide for Pings (IIRC).  He posted it on the OSP FB group some time back.  

 

The second is the Kenneth "Lumpy" Uselton compilation that was made available in the public domain. Full credit to both, all I did was save them.  

 

Ping Putter Collector.pdf 999.62 kB · 2 downloads

 

ping-collectibles-manual.pdf 2.19 MB · 1 download

 

Thanks so much! I had incomplete versions of both of those so now I have some studying to do - hugely appreciate it. 

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

2 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

Can't putt worth a lick with a heel shafted putter (8802, 8813, etc.).  Plumber's neck is my preference.  Plus a head style that allows me to scoop up my 3 putt gimmes without bending over.  😡 😁

 

 

Ahh, I see I am not alone in this regard🤣

[JungleJimbo]

2 hours ago, Fellaheen51 said:

 

Can't putt worth a lick with a heel shafted putter (8802, 8813, etc.).  Plumber's neck is my preference.  Plus a head style that allows me to scoop up my 3 putt gimmes without bending over.  😡 😁

 

 

12 minutes ago, No_Catchy_Nickname said:

 

Ahh, I see I am not alone in this regard🤣

 

We could all be endorsers of Lumpy's ball-retriever suction-cup tool.

 

https://www.golfmagic.com/tour/pga-tour/golf-fans-all-say-same-thing-over-pga-tour-champions-pros-putter-i-need-now

 

 

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

54 minutes ago, JungleJimbo said:

 

 

We could all be endorsers of Lumpy's ball-retriever suction-cup tool.

 

https://www.golfmagic.com/tour/pga-tour/golf-fans-all-say-same-thing-over-pga-tour-champions-pros-putter-i-need-now

 

 

 

 

My putting sucks, but that's taking to an all different level!

[ezgoer]

2 hours ago, JungleJimbo said:

 

 

We could all be endorsers of Lumpy's ball-retriever suction-cup tool.

 

https://www.golfmagic.com/tour/pga-tour/golf-fans-all-say-same-thing-over-pga-tour-champions-pros-putter-i-need-now

 

 

No idea where I’ve gotten these from over the years but here you go. If anyone wants some PM me. Rubber still seems pliable and not sure if they’d slip on anything but a standard size grip. Shipping can’t be much US although I’m sure they are in every golf store in there nick nack section. They gotta make oversized grip ones now. 

Edited November 5, 2024 by ezgoer

[tripanfal]

I have a special Ping I use for days when I am not feeling like picking up my ball off the green.

[butchammon]

Here's my two Ping putters from decades ago.  Anyone have one of these or still game one of these?

 

 

Edited December 27, 2024 by butchammon

[Foozle]

6 minutes ago, butchammon said:

Here's my two Ping putters from decades ago.  Anyone have one of these or still game one of these?

 

 

I have examples of each.

The B60 was in my bag for close to 30 years. Didn't think it would ever leave but when I developed eyesight issues I switched it for a Zebra as the sight line was easier to see.

I bought the Pal to complete a Tom Watson tribute bag, only ever gamed it a couple of times. Picture is before arrival of the Pal.

[Maine Golfer]

The Pal is my favorite. I've gotten "weird" on toe hang and the Pal doesn't have a ton. 

[ezgoer]

My last PING putter round was using a PAL. I haven’t used an Anser in awhile but I could understand never putting with anything but a PAL. Not even my preferred style of putter these days but we got along very well. 
 

 

 

Not really an old PING putter but here’s my newest PING putter acquisition. Don’t think it’s gonna win many beauty contests but I’ve gravitated to this style and there’s promise in this one so far. PING introducing perimeter weighting to a Napa. With a little flick of the wrist I should even be able to pick up balls. 

Edited December 27, 2024 by ezgoer

[ezgoer]

Hey question for the PING putter experts.Not sure how old my PAL is. Has wonderful patina that I love but also has a dingy shaft. Ugly shafts bug me more than they should.

 

#1 Could we be talking the old ball bearing shaft setting in this?

 

#2 If so how difficult would a DIY job be on this?

Edited December 27, 2024 by ezgoer

[tripanfal]

Every Ping putter I have ever reshafted has had a ball bearing in it; and one head only I bought sight unseen also did. I drilled them out without a jig and I still have all my fingers and no berylliosis symptoms yet but I sure would love to figure out a safer way. 

7 hours ago, ezgoer said:

Hey question for the PING putter experts.Not sure how old my PAL is. Has wonderful patina that I love but also has a dingy shaft. Ugly shafts bug me more than they should.

 

#1 Could we be talking the old ball bearing shaft setting in this?

 

#2 If so how difficult would a DIY job be on this?

 

Edited December 28, 2024 by tripanfal

[JungleJimbo]

On 11/9/2024 at 8:10 PM, tripanfal said:

I have a special Ping I use for days when I am not feeling like picking up my ball off the green.

 

 

Am fascinated by this Ping Craze-E Moment putter ... based on a google-search, most = seem to be found via Japanese/JDM websites.

http://www.anserfreak.ne.jp/archives/2010/06/ping_jas_craze_moment.html (Google-Translated here)

 

 

Quote

 

PING JAS CRAZY-E MOMENT (ANSERFREAK)

anserfreak.ne.jp/archives/2010/06/ping_jas_craze_moment.html

 

 

 

PING JAS CRAZE-E MOMENT

There was a putter listed as a bargain, and for some reason I ended up having it at home.

As the JAS name suggests, this CRAZ-E MOMENT series is priced a little higher than other PING series.

The overall image is like this. Since it has MOMENT in the name, it must be a design that focuses on the moment of inertia. The specific figures were not given on the PING website.

This is what it looks like from above.

The metal frame has a plastic part attached to the inside with screws. The left is the sole, and the right is the screw location on both sides. The plastic part is fixed at these three points.

It looks amazing from behind. It looks like a spaceship from STAR WARS. But this head is long toward the back and lighter near the middle, so it must have a high moment of inertia. This insert further emphasizes that.

The material is described as "lightweight nano-nickel insert," so perhaps it's lightweight nano-nickel? I don't know how thick the insert is, but the face is light, and the center of the face is light, so it must affect various values.

You can see the JAS print or engraving on the heel side of the face, the label, and the grip. You're familiar with JAS, right? It's the initials of John A. Solheim.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 28, 2024 by JungleJimbo

[tripanfal]

So, I have also noticed that but I did find mine in the States. I had been keeping my eye out for JAS putters (I will buy a Tess/JAS Anser someday) and there were two versions of that mallet that look pretty similar, the Craz E Moment and the Craz E D - the D looks to have the same outer frame and shaft with a different composite centerpiece. I just assumed it was a copyright issue or a marketing decision as far as the naming went. If I get my hands on a Craz E D I will see if I can swap the center pieces around.
As far as feel, very close to the iN series Craz E which shares the Nickel insert but feels a bit heavier overall. Clicky but solid off the face, not my favorite sound off the putter but performs fairly well for me. I may swap the insert on the Craz E out to something in carbon fiber or milled aluminum but it probably won’t fix my inability to aim properly with mallets.

7 hours ago, JungleJimbo said:

 

Am fascinated by this Ping Craze-E Moment putter ... based on a google-search, most = seem to be found via Japanese/JDM websites.

http://www.anserfreak.ne.jp/archives/2010/06/ping_jas_craze_moment.html 

[JungleJimbo]

1 minute ago, tripanfal said:

So, I have also noticed that but I did find mine in the States. I had been keeping my eye out for JAS putters (I will buy a Tess/JAS Anser someday) and there were two versions of that mallet that look pretty similar, the Craz E Moment and the Craz E D - the D looks to have the same outer frame and shaft with a different composite centerpiece. I just assumed it was a copyright issue or a marketing decision as far as the naming went. If I get my hands on a Craz E D I will see if I can swap the center pieces around.
As far as feel, very close to the iN series Craz E which shares the Nickel insert but feels a bit heavier overall. Clicky but solid off the face, not my favorite sound off the putter but performs fairly well for me. I may swap the insert on the Craz E out to something in carbon fiber or milled aluminum but it probably won’t fix my inability to aim properly with mallets.

 

My 2 cents ... keep the Nickel insert on this putter intact.

 

If you want to experiment with a carbon-fiber insert ... it's easy to find a ready-built putter with a carbon insert on the 2nd-hand market e.g. the Taylormade Spider Vicino ... or someone who has already installed a SpryEvo carbon insert. 

[tripanfal]

Your 2 cents is right. Sorry, I was talking about the iN series - the Craz E Moment will stay stock.

2 minutes ago, JungleJimbo said:

 

My 2 cents ... keep the Nickel insert on this putter intact.

 

If you want to experiment with a carbon-fiber insert ... it's easy to find a ready-built putter with a carbon insert on the 2nd-hand market e.g. the Taylormade Spider Vicino ... or someone who has already installed a SpryEvo carbon insert. 

 

[Jraallen]

On 12/27/2024 at 12:28 PM, Maine Golfer said:

The Pal is my favorite. I've gotten "weird" on toe hang and the Pal doesn't have a ton. 

The pal 5 has none if that’s what you’re looking for. Recently grabbed a used SeeMore, a ping heppler piper c, and the cu5 and pal 5 shown below and while I’ve been planning to use the SeeMore or piper c the pal 5 is really giving them a run for their money.

 

if only I could find a Danser for under under 200 I’d be sooo happy

[Mike_C]

On 12/27/2024 at 11:04 AM, butchammon said:

Here's my two Ping putters from decades ago.  Anyone have one of these or still game one of these?

 

 

I still have my B60 I bought in the spring of 1980.   Every now and then pull it out and hit some putts with it.  I could game it today, no problem, except I would probably feel better with a newer fat grip vs the traditional Ping grip.

 

Had a PAL around the same time, but it didn't last long with me.

[twidener]

I bought a Sedona the first year they were released, can' remember what year, and the only markings on the head is Sedona in red, PING in the cavity and small PING on the front neck. No sight lines and nothing on the sole. Very clean looking. The shaft label has PING with the red PING Man. I have a PING cord grip on it and it has a great feel, when you hit the sweet spot. I bought one a year later for my daughter who was playing HS golf and hers had a sight line. She could really putt with that club. The head shape of the Sedona's always reminded me of the old Bristol George Low Wizard 600, like Nicklaus used. Not the flowing lines and head shape of an 8802. If you could find a "real" 1962 Wizard 600 back in the late 70's or in the 80's it was going to cost you between $600-$800, maybe more. I saw one once that a guy had and it was sweet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

'

[ezgoer]

2 hours ago, twidener said:

I bought a Sedona the first year they were released, can' remember what year, and the only markings on the head is Sedona in red, PING in the cavity and small PING on the front neck. No sight lines and nothing on the sole. Very clean looking. The shaft label has PING with the red PING Man. I have a PING cord grip on it and it has a great feel, when you hit the sweet spot. I bought one a year later for my daughter who was playing HS golf and hers had a sight line. She could really putt with that club. The head shape of the Sedona's always reminded me of the old Bristol George Low Wizard 600, like Nicklaus used. Not the flowing lines and head shape of an 8802. If you could find a "real" 1962 Wizard 600 back in the late 70's or in the 80's it was going to cost you between $600-$800, maybe more. I saw one once that a guy had and it was sweet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

'

Think I read Sedona’s introduction was 1998. Mine has no shaft label. Not sure if the isopur insert puts it a little later? Nothing on the neck of mine. 

 

I have read that not many Wizard 600’s were produced especially compared to others. Not sure it was even in the thousands produced but I could be wrong on that. Somewhere on one of these threads people are throwing around 5 digit numbers for their actual value these days. One of the bad aspects to what we love when stuff gets elevated to the kind of level it’s stupidly unattainable. 

 

Unfortunately I’ll probably never be in the same vicinity of a real 600. I have a 80’s Mac JN replica. I do have a real 64 8802 and here’s all 3 compared. Sedona might be closer to the 8802 with a PING style IM neck?? Definitely bigger and heavier then the other two but not modern conventional putter heavy. Also in person the 600 is far shorter heel to toe than the other 2. Seems like you’re either a 600 or a 8802 person. I can’t decide between the two so I’m just fine riding the fence. 

 

Since switching to a gated stroke with this style of putter I’ve went back to a traditional size grip. Figured why not cuz it was so foreign at first and now it feels right. This PING has a Tiger Shark oversized with a great shape that’s really comfortable. Can’t wait to actually game it. Wondering if this will be my go to Napa putter when the putting struggles inevitably hit during the season?

64 8802 is a dainty small grip, kids or woman’s size so I have a wrap over it. Way too small but I’ve read there was a bigger paddle style also. One of the few clubs I have with actual value so I don’t dare modify it. Kinda a shame not setting it up the way I’d really like it but I’m sure there’s another or an 8813 out there waiting for me to do this with. 

Edited December 29, 2024 by ezgoer