Thoughts on PXG Plastic Shims vs. Typical Brass Shims?

[jmrski2]

I've got some PXG heads ready to build, all are .370, all of my shaft options are .355.  I saw online that PXG uses a plastic "adapter" for shimming, and I bought some at the link below. Anyone have experience with these? Do you prefer brass shims over them & why or why not?  My thought is that with the plastic adapter at the tip of the .355 shaft along with the PXG collared ferrules & a little touch of quick center mixed in the epoxy I should get a good bond between hosel and shaft.  My main concern is the hole is much smaller at the end of the shaft with the adapter on it, so I'll have to be careful with air bubbles.  Any advice in dealing with that concern is greatly appreciated as well.

 

https://billybobsgolf.com/product/pxg-factory-iron-ferrules/

[ScottyGolf]

Majority of PXG are .370 heads.  I believe the CB and ST are all .355.  I get these same ferrules from Billy Bobs and use them with out any issue. I have been doing it for years when I re-shaft PXG.  I also use shafting beads in my mix.  Never a problem.

[Socrates]

Callaway and Ping both have used 'plastic' hosel adaptors over the years.  Ping and PXG are 2 that use a long collared ferrule to assemble their irons.  It's not a problem as long as you have the proper ferrule.  As always - prep every surface, mix your epoxy well and coat every surface being bonded.

[ode1]

It would.nbe nice.if there were an aftermarket shim like this for a. 355 to .370 application.  The brass shims work just fine but IMO this would be much easier!

Edited December 20, 2023 by ode1

[Nessism]

2 hours ago, ode said:

It would.nbe nice.if there were an aftermarket shim like this for a. 355 to .370 application.  The brass shims work just fine but IMO this would be much easier!

 

Brass shims are exactly this.  I like the type with the curved legs, since they hold the shaft tight in the hosel space.  

 

With PXG, you still need collared ferrules.

[ode1]

19 minutes ago, Nessism said:

 

Brass shims are exactly this.  I like the type with the curved legs, since they hold the shaft tight in the hosel space.  

 

With PXG, you still need collared ferrules.

Yeah I prefer the shims that have the raised area down the middle of the finger.  Easier to work with and they are more durable.  I cannot find those anymore.

[Radeon962]

I have done multiple sets over the past few years and just use the PXG specific collared ferrules for taper or parallel, depending on the shaft being used.

 

No issues to date.

 

Billybobs or Golfworks PXG ferrules work well

[ChaosTheory]

OP’s question is about the shim cup on the bottom end of the shaft.  That is a weird setup.  

[Adam C]

Brass shims are the way to go for both PXG and Ping irons. The long collared PXG or Ping adapter ferrules are difficult to deal with, force you into only one ferrule color option, and have an extremely high fail rate compared to any other company who just uses a standard hosel design. 

I don't know why Ping and PXG continues to use this design as the ferrules separate from the hosel at such a higher rate and I am referring to factory assembled clubs, not just reshafts done by people who think they should use the supposed "matching" ferrule.

 

 

[ScottyGolf]

the ferrule and shim cup come as a set - easy to use.  Just put the Ferrule on first 😉

[ScottyGolf]

23 minutes ago, Adam C said:

Brass shims are the way to go for both PXG and Ping irons. The long collared PXG or Ping adapter ferrules are difficult to deal with, force you into only one ferrule color option, and have an extremely high fail rate compared to any other company who just uses a standard hosel design. 

I don't know why Ping and PXG continues to use this design as the ferrules separate from the hosel at such a higher rate and I am referring to factory assembled clubs, not just reshafts done by people who think they should use the supposed "matching" ferrule.

 

 

My guess is they do not prep the ferrule just slap it in.  I personally take a wire brush and my hand scuff up the inside of a ferrule and tab a little epoxy and slid it on up.  Not sure I have seen one loosen after that.  Only down side it leaves a higher epoxy line when you remove the shaft to use on something else.  Steel no big deal but doing it to graphite leaves some epoxy and extremely difficult to remove old hardened epoxy on graphite shafts.

[jmrski2]

Thanks for the replies, everyone.  I've built several iron sets, driving irons, and metal woods, but never had to shim before and wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.

 

I've always prepped the inside of my ferrules as well as the shaft underneath the ferrule. Nice thing is these made-for PXG ferrules are almost a perfect fit on the outer diameter to the hosel.. Should be a quick and easy turn with acetone & a paper towel.  I've always bought oversized OD ferrules and turned them down with a Scotch-Brite sanding belt, will ne nice to avoid that step this time around.

[BirdieBob]

All PXG hosels are 0.370" so one should use either the ferrule and tip piece that come in a package for the fit.

You can use the 0.355 > 0.370 brass shims instead.

Have built my many sets of PXG irons both ways.