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Order of Operations for dry-fitting a Build


jmrski2

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Quick building question:  Is it standard practice for club-building professionals to cut and grip iron shafts prior to gluing them in?  It seems that is the best and only way to get an accurate swing weight measurement to determine the need for tip weighting/reaming (and avoid the need for lead tape/drilling post-build)

 

So dry-fit shaft in hosel, cut shaft to playing length, install grip on shaft, dry-fit cut and gripped shaft in hosel w/ferrule, record swing weight measurement and adjust head weight to get desired swingweight.  Then finally glue & turn down ferrule when dried.  Is that SOP?

Edited by jmrski2
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It can obviously be done either way but I've found that to get it exact it's been better for me to grip the shaft during the dry fit.  I also have used split grips to do it but since a grip has to go on at some point I just do it beforehand.  Then as you stated it's easy to get your exact tip weight needed for final specs.  Epoxy usually doesn't add much of anything to the final spec...half a point at most so you can always factor that in.

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I use a superstroke counter weight in place of a grip (provided the grip weighs the same), to ensure I can tamp the shaft into the hosel and achieve a snug fit without damaging the grip. 

If you cut to length and then come to realise you need to add a tip weight, that will add some length and can create a gap between club and ferrule if you've already installed ferrule.

Also easier for me to line up grip to face angle than it is to line up face angle to grip. 

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2 hours ago, jmrski2 said:

Quick building question:  Is it standard practice for club-building professionals to cut and grip iron shafts prior to gluing them in? 

 

Cut yes, grip no.   Some do the grip before - but it's a minority based on what builders report here in the forum.

 

it's more common to use an old split grip dry fit onto the club for swing weight adjustment (no tape).

 

It's much easier to align the grip properly on the club after the head is installed and the epoxy has cured.  Also some like to blow on the grip and the tip needs to be plugged up for that.

 

It's not common but it's way better to adjust swing weight w/o any grip since actual grip weights can have a large tolerance range and you don't want to be compensating for variations in the grip weight.

 

So the way I do it:

1) dry fit shaft on head and cut to length

2) install ferrule on shaft

3) check swing weight and adjust head weight as necessary.    Make sure any tip weights added do not change length - even 1/8" can mess up the swing weight.

 

How you adjust the swing weight for not having any grip on depends on how you came up with the target swing weight in the first place.   Ideally you'd take the test club used to fit for swing weight and remove the grip and then put it on the scale.    But the simple method is to go for a swing weight 9 pts higher than the desired target.   e.g. E1 for a final target of D2

 

4) Then glue everything up and install the grip.

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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I tip trim and install grips prior to balancing my clubs. I MOI match my clubs and shim the hosel with a small piece of paper to get the head to stay put while testing. I apply lead tape a few gr at a time to get to my target MOI, then replace the lead tape with trimmed tip weights to get the final match. I'm then careful to use the same amount of epoxy so things stay consistent.

 

BT

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Im not a pro but I build all my own clubs - I use mid size grips so I always know that I will need head weight added. However, I don't install the grips first because it's kind of a PITA, then you need to poke holes thru the tape at the end of the shaft, thru the hole in the cap of the grip, so air can get out. Since I blow everything on, it's much easier to have the club head already installed before doing that step.

 

I build as normal, then swing weight at the end and use lead tape. I hate tip weights and tape is way more versatile anyway.

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On 4/8/2024 at 5:51 PM, jmrski2 said:

Quick building question:  Is it standard practice for club-building professionals to cut and grip iron shafts prior to gluing them in?  It seems that is the best and only way to get an accurate swing weight measurement to determine the need for tip weighting/reaming (and avoid the need for lead tape/drilling post-build)

 

So dry-fit shaft in hosel, cut shaft to playing length, install grip on shaft, dry-fit cut and gripped shaft in hosel w/ferrule, record swing weight measurement and adjust head weight to get desired swingweight.  Then finally glue & turn down ferrule when dried.  Is that SOP?


it NOT a good idea to put grips on, and then adjust SW. 
The reason is grip wgt tolerances, who normally is plus minus 3.5 grams
When you do it this way, head wgt adjustment (and thats what this is all about), is down the drain at the first grip change, since each club was balanced vs actual grip wgt on that club, and all you did was to fool the scale.

Build them without grip, measure total wgt progression, and use grip wgt variables to even out total wgt slope.

But...the first step to make it right, is actually loft and lie...since later adjustments, moves SW.....
If you need a full write up stage by stage on how to minimize all tolerances, here is one for you.
 


 

Edited by Howard_Jones
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