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B29 Blue Brick training Aid


CHM 12

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10 hours ago, ithrowheat said:

Also, regular alignment sticks fit just fine. you just need to remove the tip, which probably also means tying a knot in the elastic.

Instead of removing the tips I scaled the model up 1.13 and that makes the holes roughly 10.2mm which fits the tips of my alignment rods.

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7 hours ago, Doublebogey22 said:

@ziggy34690 So I was able to print the product it was awesome. The only thing I might have an issue with idk if others are having the issue. Its with the wedge placement. It doesnt seem like the holes give much lean. Do you think that is a me thing or if its the file?

You mean it’s too upright? Vs the others? Or what you feel for an ideal wedge swing plane? The wedge plane will be much more vertical vs a driver with the much longer shaft will have a more shallow plane and more lean. 

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36 minutes ago, PPDOC said:

You mean it’s too upright? Vs the others? Or what you feel for an ideal wedge swing plane? The wedge plane will be much more vertical vs a driver with the much longer shaft will have a more shallow plane and more lean. 

Its more upright than I thought your wedge should be at impact. 

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33 minutes ago, EddieWouldGo said:

How are we weighting this thing down now?

I filled the pockets in my base with steel BBs and super glue. I am sharing mine with a young child and was afraid if it gets accidentally whacked or dropped we'd end up with a disaster of BBs everywhere. So as I was adding them in the pockets I added generous layers of super glue which I just happen to have a ton of laying around. Now it's quite heavy and I don't have to worry about a huge mess if it breaks. Just make sure and keep the BBs below the top edge of the pockets, I made that mistake at first and it wouldn't fit in flush with the base. If I remember correctly, based on what was left in the container I'd estimate I used somewhere between 2000-3000 0.177 caliber BBs. 

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2 minutes ago, wwwryan said:

I filled the pockets in my base with steel BBs and super glue. I am sharing mine with a young child and was afraid if it gets accidentally whacked or dropped we'd end up with a disaster of BBs everywhere. So as I was adding them in the pockets I added generous layers of super glue which I just happen to have a ton of laying around. Now it's quite heavy and I don't have to worry about a huge mess if it breaks. Just make sure and keep the BBs below the top edge of the pockets, I made that mistake at first and it wouldn't fit in flush with the base. If I remember correctly, based on what was left in the container I'd estimate I used somewhere between 2000-3000 0.177 caliber BBs. 


from the Printables page. 
 

IMG_2301.jpeg.4ff30fd4cc850b096806a56415431a9e.jpeg

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On 7/20/2025 at 8:59 PM, Doublebogey22 said:

It’s more upright than I thought your wedge should be at impact. 

Im just high 80’s duffer, but we got

those angles from the blue brick site, so I believe they are correct. Certainly wedge is the most upright of the clubs. Then again, they are easier to hit. I’ve not gotten good on the driver plane yet. 

Edited by ithrowheat
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On 7/20/2025 at 11:18 PM, wwwryan said:

I filled the pockets in my base with steel BBs and super glue. I am sharing mine with a young child and was afraid if it gets accidentally whacked or dropped we'd end up with a disaster of BBs everywhere. So as I was adding them in the pockets I added generous layers of super glue which I just happen to have a ton of laying around. Now it's quite heavy and I don't have to worry about a huge mess if it breaks. Just make sure and keep the BBs below the top edge of the pockets, I made that mistake at first and it wouldn't fit in flush with the base. If I remember correctly, based on what was left in the container I'd estimate I used somewhere between 2000-3000 0.177 caliber BBs. 

I’m also using bb’s, but no glue. Sand will also work, fishing weights or old bolts n nuts. 
if we get tight fitting screws, there shouldn’t be a huge worry about loose bb’s. 

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3 minutes ago, ithrowheat said:

if we get tight fitting screws, there shouldn’t be a huge worry about loose bb’s

 

The concern is accidentally breaking it with a swing (or even just dropping it on the floor) and shattering the 3d print sending bbs flying everywhere.

 

8 minutes ago, ithrowheat said:

True. But that means 5mm screws don’t fit tightly. I haven't found a screw that tightens well. If anyone else has, please lmk. 

 

Why not just super glue the whole thing together? Does it ever need to come back apart?

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18 hours ago, KD1 said:

 

The concern is accidentally breaking it with a swing (or even just dropping it on the floor) and shattering the 3d print sending bbs flying everywhere.

 

 

Why not just super glue the whole thing together? Does it ever need to come back apart?

I’m printing with PETG. It’s not going to break apart. But no shade if you want to be safe. 
 

 

 

“Why not just super glue the whole thing together? Does it ever need to come back apart?”

 

I don’t see much reason not to glue it. I’ve considered it. Could also join the parts in my slicer and insert a printer pause to load it with bb’s, then resume the print. So it’s all locked in 

Edited by ithrowheat
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I know next to nothing about 3D printing so keep that in mind with these question:

 

1) If weight is an issue, would printing a solid block, instead of a hollow 2-piece model, make sense or is that cost prohibitive?

 

2) Either way, could holes be added to press-fit 1 or 2 lengths of rebar through the brick longitudinally?

        Scrap rebar can be found at local concrete precaster and contractor yards. Probably at no charge.

 

Keep up the good work!

Titleist TSi3 D Smoke Black 60 5.5
Titleist TSi2 3w/7w Tensei Blue 65
Callaway Apex DCB/DG AMT Red R300
Titleist Vokey SM7 (Raw)
TM Spider Tour Black
Titleist ProV1
Titleist Hybrid 14
Bag Boy Nitron

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1 hour ago, Bob Cat said:

I know next to nothing about 3D printing so keep that in mind with these question:

 

1) If weight is an issue, would printing a solid block, instead of a hollow 2-piece model, make sense or is that cost prohibitive?

 

2) Either way, could holes be added to press-fit 1 or 2 lengths of rebar through the brick longitudinally?

        Scrap rebar can be found at local concrete precaster and contractor yards. Probably at no charge.

 

Keep up the good work!

 

Printing something this big at 100% infill would use a lot of filament and take forever to print. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but it would still be relatively light weight.

 

Not sure how you'd press fit rebar with all the ridges without just tearing up the plastic. You could try to heat up and press fit smooth bar but why not just glue in some bbs or other steel scrap at this point?

 

(edit) If you look at the screenshot from ppdoc's post on Sunday the solid looking parts aren't sold either. The inside of the parts that you can't see would be some kind of honey comb structure to save time and material but still provide rigidity to the exterior walls. 

 

3 hours ago, ithrowheat said:

I’m printing with PETG. It’s not going to break apart

You're telling me that if you whack this thing with an 80 mph 7-iron that it won't break?

Edited by KD1
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On 7/24/2025 at 6:42 AM, ithrowheat said:

“Why not just super glue the whole thing together? Does it ever need to come back apart?”

 

I don’t see much reason not to glue it. I’ve considered it. Could also join the parts in my slicer and insert a printer pause to load it with bb’s, then resume the print. So it’s all locked in 

 

Clever!

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For those who may be interested the dark site has the PlaneMaster for $60. It is 3D printed and very similar.

Ping G430 LST 10.5° Ventus Blue TR 60 S
Wilson DynaPower 15° Rogue White 70 S
Ping G425 MAX 17.5° Rogue White 130 80 S
Ping G430 22 & 26° Ventus Blue HY 8-S

Ping i210 6-W AT Steelfiber 110cw Reg +.5"
Ping S159 52, 56 AT Steelfiber 110cw Reg +.5"

Ping ChipR AT Steelfiber 110cw Reg

2022 Scotty Cameron Phantom X5 35"
TM TP5

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