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How much Height can I add changing shafts


loki993

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I got a set of used RMX 120s last season to give a try. I took them to the range and thought I hit them well but the ball flight was far too low. Around 50 feet IIRC. So I stuck them in the corner and went back to my old Pings figured Id just sell them and get something else. Lately I've been thinking I like the clubs and really the only issue was ball flight. Can I get the desired peak height from just a shaft change? They currently have Modus 3 tour 120s in stiff in them. If Im honest with myself Im probably a more R flex person especially in the irons. 

 

Reshafting kinda ruins the value proposition but I suppose I can offset some of the cost by selling the 120s that come out of them. 

 

Is this a rabbit hole that's worth going down or should I just cut my losses and go with different clubs or if I really like these find a set with a more suitable shaft already installed?

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32 minutes ago, loki993 said:

 Can I get the desired peak height from just a shaft change?

 

It's possible - but shaft changes are normally an extremely unreliable (and even unpredictable) way to manage trajectory and not recommended.  But that assumes one was actually fit for the shaft for other reasons - like accuracy, constancy, dispersion, shot shape control, etc..    

 

If you were not fit for those shafts - or a similar shaft - and they happen to be a poor fit, then they could certainly be contributing to the problem.   That's the time when it might be a good idea to consider a shaft change.

 

What shafts do you play in the Pings?

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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That said, the direct contribution from the shaft to the dynamic loft isn't really large.  It's the more indirect influences - on how the weight feel and stiffness feel might effect the swing and the release timing and how much dynamic loft you deliver into the ball.  For some that can be significant, for others it might not make much difference at all.  Only actual testing with different shafts will answer that question.

Edited by Stuart_G
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12 minutes ago, Stuart_G said:

 

It's possible - but shaft changes are normally an extremely unreliable (and even unpredictable) way to manage trajectory and not recommended.  But that assumes one was actually fit for the shaft for other reasons - like accuracy, constancy, dispersion, shot shape control, etc..    

 

If you were not fit for those shafts - or a similar shaft - and they happen to be a poor fit, then they could certainly be contributing to the problem.   That's the time when it might be a good idea to consider a shaft change.

 

What shafts do you play in the Pings?

 

 

They are an odd one. Graphite Fubuki Ax375s in R flex. They are a 75 gram shaft.  So 75G to 114G and then the flex change too. So a pretty big difference. I didn't think I wanted to stay graphite but honestly that may be what I need. I dont think I swing slow but Im definitely not fast. Im in the 95ish range with the driver and id like to think Im 80MPH in the 7 but I dont know that for sure. 

Edited by loki993
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9 minutes ago, loki993 said:

 

They are an odd one. Graphite Fubuki Ax375s in R flex. They are a 75 gram shaft.  So 75G to 114G and then the flex change too. So a pretty big difference. I didn't think I wanted to stay graphite but honestly that may be what I need. I dont think I swing slow but Im definitely not fast. Im in the 95ish range with the driver and id like to think Im 80MPH in the 7 but I dont know that for sure. 

 

What I'd suggest is to get some (high density) lead tape and take the pings to the range.   Take a mid-iron and start adding lead tape to the shaft.  Roughly ~10 gm at a time and wrap it around the shaft about 4"-6" below the bottom of the grip and see what happens.  Keep going and see how both the feel and the ball flight changes.  Just don't get overly focused on just trajectory, also pay attention to dispersion, consistency (especially of face impact location and consistency) and accuracy and shot shape control.   When you get close to the best weight, you can change to adding/subtracting 5 gm instead of the full 10 gm.  

 

That's the best way to find what the best shaft weight might be for you and what happens when you stray away from the "best" shaft weight.   Then when you have that question answered, you'll be in a better place to weigh the different options open to you.

 

 

Edited by Stuart_G
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@loki993  I am guessing I got the correct RXM 120 head.

 

https://global.golf.yamaha.com/en/news/2019/pdf/20rmx_newsrelease_en.pdf

 

Nippon 120 is a low/mid launch-low/mid spin shaft.    

 

Head also came with a NS 95 high launch - high spin shaft.  

 

Nippon 120 are handle stiff / bend over the middle / very stiff tip.  As Nippon says, the opposite profile shaft is the Nippon 130.   The NS 950 is Nippon's standard lightweight shaft, and they do a few above and below the 950.

 

 

What shafts are in the Pings?  Is that your unicorn of shafts?  Maybe test some shafts with the Acer XV or Maltby STi heads, that way you can buy once / cry once on these really nice heads.

 

Callaway Mavrik Max 12 degree (set at -1 / STD) Tensei Blue 65g S

KE4 TC Pro 5 + 7 wood 69g S Aldila NVS Orange

KE4 Tour TC Hybrids 4 and 5 TT Score LT S 

TS3 6i-GW w/ Nippon Modus 125R

TSW 52 & 56 wedges w/ Nippon Modus 125R wedge shaft

Ping Anser 2D

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5 hours ago, RSLP said:

@loki993  I am guessing I got the correct RXM 120 head.

 

https://global.golf.yamaha.com/en/news/2019/pdf/20rmx_newsrelease_en.pdf

 

Nippon 120 is a low/mid launch-low/mid spin shaft.    

 

Head also came with a NS 95 high launch - high spin shaft.  

 

Nippon 120 are handle stiff / bend over the middle / very stiff tip.  As Nippon says, the opposite profile shaft is the Nippon 130.   The NS 950 is Nippon's standard lightweight shaft, and they do a few above and below the 950.

 

 

What shafts are in the Pings?  Is that your unicorn of shafts?  Maybe test some shafts with the Acer XV or Maltby STi heads, that way you can buy once / cry once on these really nice heads.

 

Yeah those are the ones and they're basically new. 

 

These are the shafts in the pings:

https://www.golfshaftreviews.info/mitsubishi-fubuki-ax-iron-shaft-review/

 

Not sure theyre a unicorn for me but ive always hit stock steel shafts. They've all been pretty heavy. Also i always had used clubs and the shafts were always stiff. The ping shafts are light and regular so maybe thats it. Also they're ping raptures which i guess are pretty high launching heads as well. 

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@loki993 

 

for Nippon steel fun:

 

a Nippon shop could work with you to see what is best starting with the NS 750 - 850 - 950 (standard)- the 1050 -1150 may start to get a little heavy.  One of these (if they work) would be about $50 per club with new grips and tweaking any loft lie that is needed.  Don't reshaft anything you don't plan to put into the bag.  The Zelos line a little more.  Be a nice set to brag about!

 

Modus 120 is a for a strong player looking for a lighter shaft.   It is very popular on the JPGA tour.  

 

You could also play the ebay game this would also be fun if you like that horse trading thing. 

 

Or, choose another shaft brand/material rabbit hole...also be fun!

 

note:  @Stuart_G gives great advice, and I have done probably every test he suggests.  100% fun!

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Callaway Mavrik Max 12 degree (set at -1 / STD) Tensei Blue 65g S

KE4 TC Pro 5 + 7 wood 69g S Aldila NVS Orange

KE4 Tour TC Hybrids 4 and 5 TT Score LT S 

TS3 6i-GW w/ Nippon Modus 125R

TSW 52 & 56 wedges w/ Nippon Modus 125R wedge shaft

Ping Anser 2D

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