Best driver head for a push cut

[jasonTeI3]

Been struggling lately with not closing the club face at impact while still having a slightly inside to out swing path. It’s causing me to miss some drives way out right. Just to throw it out there my SS is around 108. I can’t use a Ping SFT or Callaway Max D or anything else that’s super draw bias due in parts to my swing path and the fact that I can’t stand to see a closed club face at address. Currently using a TSR2. Really just wanting to know if anyone else has had this issue and come up with a good solution other than the obvious which is fix my current swing flaw. 

Edited January 31 by jasonTeI3

[speedeuphoria]

Stronger grip?

[jasonTeI3]

1 hour ago, speedeuphoria said:

Stronger grip?

My grip is plenty strong. Not really looking for any pointers more looking for any particular heads that seemed to work better than others.

[millerj]

I mean my go to driver shot is a push fade and the TSR2 worked really well for me in that regard. I'm now in the GT2 and it's the same thing, just works like a charm.

[hammergolf]

18 hours ago, jasonTeI3 said:

Been struggling lately with not closing the club face at impact while still having a slightly inside to out swing path. It’s causing me to miss some drives way out right. Just to throw it out there my SS is around 108. I can’t use a Ping SFT or Callaway Max D or anything else that’s super draw bias due in parts to my swing path and the fact that I can’t stand to see a closed club face at address. Currently using a TSR2. Really just wanting to know if anyone else has had this issue and come up with a good solution other than the obvious which is fix my current swing flaw. 

What setting do you have your TSR2 set at?

[vman]

Any Callaway TD with a flat lie adapter will do the job.

[muniman]

I hit a very dependable push-cut with my Rogue ST Max. Pretty much my bread-n-butter shot for the last couple of years.

[trying2scratch]

13 minutes ago, muniman said:

I hit a very dependable push-cut with my Rogue ST Max. Pretty much my bread-n-butter shot for the last couple of years.

Just don't buy a clone. Make sure it says Jailbreak AI on the sole and "Flash Face SS22" on the face. 

[gbang15]

callaway elyte td. had me hitting low spin push cuts all day

[mootrail]

On 1/31/2025 at 1:07 PM, jasonTeI3 said:

Been struggling lately with not closing the club face at impact while still having a slightly inside to out swing path.

 

It’s causing me to miss some drives way out right.

 

I can’t stand to see a closed club face at address.

Check, check and especially check.  New equipment is great, but it's not a cure.  As a forever draw player, I switched to a cut with my driver.  And it's not the first time.  Somehow along the it helps me get my draw back on line.

 

Want a driver, try the Smoke Max.  It sets up open to start and mine has the red flat adapter which opens it up even more.  I forward press and that's another notch of openness.  I've dialed in a touch of draw bias with the sliding weight which is pretty much exclusively to avoid your kind of miss.  Any sliding weight driver that looks right should be able to give you a helping hand.

 

Edited February 1 by mootrail

[Kingcat990]

That's my typical miss as well. Stealth 2 HD manages this well. Taking a longer backswing also works.

Edited February 1 by Kingcat990

[jasonTeI3]

3 hours ago, mootrail said:

Check, check and especially check.  New equipment is great, but it's not a cure.  As a forever draw player, I switched to a cut with my driver.  And it's not the first time.  Somehow along the it helps me get my draw back on line.

 

Want a driver, try the Smoke Max.  It sets up open to start and mine has the red flat adapter which opens it up even more.  I forward press and that's another notch of openness.  I've dialed in a touch of draw bias with the sliding weight which is pretty much exclusively to avoid your kind of miss.  Any sliding weight driver that looks right should be able to give you a helping hand.

 

Guys I think a lot of you are reading this wrong. I’m not wanting to hit a push cut. I’m trying to AVOID hitting the push cut. I played today and the poor drives I hit started right and cut. The good drives I hit started a touch right or on my target line and drew a touch left. I’m trying to AVOID THE PUSH CUT.

[BiggErn]

38 minutes ago, jasonTeI3 said:

Guys I think a lot of you are reading this wrong. I’m not wanting to hit a push cut. I’m trying to AVOID hitting the push cut. I played today and the poor drives I hit started right and cut. The good drives I hit started a touch right or on my target line and drew a touch left. I’m trying to AVOID THE PUSH CUT.

You don’t want to make a swing adjustment or adjust the club to help. Not sure what you’re looking for. 

[SwooshLT]

1 hour ago, jasonTeI3 said:

Guys I think a lot of you are reading this wrong. I’m not wanting to hit a push cut. I’m trying to AVOID hitting the push cut. I played today and the poor drives I hit started right and cut. The good drives I hit started a touch right or on my target line and drew a touch left. I’m trying to AVOID THE PUSH CUT.

 

Still , the smoke max does everything well!! It's not the longest but a very dependable draw slighting weight assisted. 

With almost any other driver, I hit a pull cut ....... Qi10,  Paradym triple diamond,  TSR2 etc..... 

First driver in a very long time that I can confidently hit a straight start draw or even a push draw. 

Now to find a shaft combo that reduces spin a bit but not reduce overall playability. 

SMOKE MAX 

[NicholasP]

I too enjoy the smoke max, have my 9 degree paired with a TR Blue 6S, spins around 2500 on solid strikes.  For the original poster, I have the same path and can struggle with a push cut myself.  9 times out of 10 it’s one of 2 things for me, getting lazy in posture, too hunched over.  Or, a grip issue, I’ll toe the driver in slightly while off the ground and grip it with my left hand and bring my right hand on.  

[ArcticSound]

From what you've described, I've got a similar swing and miss to you. I'm a tad slower, though — about a 103 SS. I played a Callaway Epic Max and struggled with losing balls right like that. Same issue with a Mizuno STZ. And then if I tried to turn it I would hit ugly hooks that fell out of the sky. I also hate seeing a club that looks closed to me -- and remember that as someone trying to hit a push draw, you don't actually want something closed. At impact your clubface should be closed to path, but not necessarily closed to target. If you have a strong in-to-out swing, your clubface might actually be open-to-target but still closed-to-path. Getting too closed (or being closed relative to target) is how you hit low hooks. Then to avoid hitting low hooks, you leave the face too open and hit the push-fade, and now you've got a two-way miss going.

 

One important thing to consider is strike. As a pusher, any head/shaft combo that leads to a heel-side miss is an absolute no-no, because the gear effect leaves you dead in the water. You need something where your miss (when you miss) is more toe-side so that gear effect protects you. Honestly, this might be the single most important thing to consider when fitting yourself to protect against the push-fade.

 

I've had success with two approaches. The first is getting something that you know will draw without thinking about it. For me, that was the Ping G430 Max; I've used both the Alta CB and the Tour Chrome (both in S flex) with good results. It turns over easily, doesn't sit too closed, and it's a high-enough spin head (spinner than most equivalent heads, from what I've seen) that you can hit towards the high-toe to ensure a draw without cratering spin and hitting the knuckle-draw that falls out of the sky.

 

The second approach is exactly the opposite -- get something that's hard to turn over, so that you can really "feel" like you're drawing the ball in the swing and you end up with a nice push-draw rather than the low hook. For me the Cobra Aerojet (core version, not Max or LS) with the Kai'li White 60S has been amazing. It's a relatively stout shaft with a stiff tip, so it kind of wants to stay open. Because of that, I can really feel like I'm hitting a hard draw in my swing without actually producing a knuckling hook. Instead I end up with a slight push-draw. If I tried that with the Ping G430 I'd end up turning the club too hard.

 

Basically, the first approach allows me to swing neutrally, letting the club/shaft do the work for me. The second approach allows me to really feel like I'm hitting a draw, and the club/shaft are set up to prevent overdrawing it.

Edited February 2 by ArcticSound
Typo

[Ca3l]

If you don’t want to adjust the setting to a more closed face, maybe try something where you can move some weight into the heel. The right shaft could make a big difference too

[AdmiralPicard]

Nothing to add. Just really thought this said, "push cart" and couldn't for the life of me think of what driver would be best on my clicgear.

 

Took me three times reading the thread title to figure out I'm just old and can't read.

 

Carry on.

[Phabs]

41 minutes ago, AdmiralPicard said:

Nothing to add. Just really thought this said, "push cart" and couldn't for the life of me think of what driver would be best on my clicgear.

 

Took me three times reading the thread title to figure out I'm just old and can't read.

 

Carry on.

Same.  I thought we had reached a new level here for a second 

[Nickb333]

4 hours ago, jasonTeI3 said:

Guys I think a lot of you are reading this wrong. I’m not wanting to hit a push cut. I’m trying to AVOID hitting the push cut. I played today and the poor drives I hit started right and cut. The good drives I hit started a touch right or on my target line and drew a touch left. I’m trying to AVOID THE PUSH CUT.

Did you originally post “push cart”? 

[Cwebb]

6 hours ago, jasonTeI3 said:

Guys I think a lot of you are reading this wrong. I’m not wanting to hit a push cut. I’m trying to AVOID hitting the push cut. I played today and the poor drives I hit started right and cut. The good drives I hit started a touch right or on my target line and drew a touch left. I’m trying to AVOID THE PUSH CUT.

 

Whichever driver you settle on, work on your impact pattern on the face in detail.  If you get it slightly toe side, it will promote a draw.

 

Anything even just slightly inside of center will promote a cut

[GolfN305]

FF33 on the new DS Adapt is pretty slick, lots of flight options, could be worth a test.

[is1ander]

 

On 2/1/2025 at 6:51 PM, jasonTeI3 said:

Guys I think a lot of you are reading this wrong. I’m not wanting to hit a push cut. I’m trying to AVOID hitting the push cut. I played today and the poor drives I hit started right and cut. The good drives I hit started a touch right or on my target line and drew a touch left. I’m trying to AVOID THE PUSH CUT.

 

Easiest answer is to go demo all the new drivers with an experienced fitter. Could be visual cues, shaft flex, swing weight, grip size, anything. Turbulators might fix your problem. Who knows.

[phizzy30]

I've tested Ping, Cally, Titleist drivers this year and so far none of them are quite as fade biased as my AI smoke TD.  I too am in to out and struggle with the lefts but now my stock shot is a push fade off the tee these days with this driver and I'm elated.  

[Howard_Jones]

On 2/1/2025 at 12:44 AM, jasonTeI3 said:

My grip is plenty strong. Not really looking for any pointers more looking for any particular heads that seemed to work better than others.

Your wrist action cant be good enough, if you have a strong grip and still cant close it up-
Im sorry to tell you, NO head on the marked will close it up fro you, and if you cant live with a face angle closed from address, you will have to live with a slice, or seek a swing trainer to help you with your wrist action.

As a club fitter and club technician, i can fix the most, but i cant fix a players wrist action, he has to make that on his own.
The only thing we can do, is to deliver a grip with sharper taper, but its limited what it can make of a difference.

It all boils down to your swing and wrist action, this is NOT a tech issue.  

[jasonTeI3]

1 hour ago, Howard_Jones said:

Your wrist action cant be good enough, if you have a strong grip and still cant close it up-
Im sorry to tell you, NO head on the marked will close it up fro you, and if you cant live with a face angle closed from address, you will have to live with a slice, or seek a swing trainer to help you with your wrist action.

As a club fitter and club technician, i can fix the most, but i cant fix a players wrist action, he has to make that on his own.
The only thing we can do, is to deliver a grip with sharper taper, but its limited what it can make of a difference.

It all boils down to your swing and wrist action, this is NOT a tech issue.  

I hear what you were saying and I appreciate your answer. I’ve been reading post of yours for years on this site and know your knowledge on these topics. I guess maybe I should have worded this differently. I don’t fight a slice what I fight is a miss that instead of starting down the right side and having a slight draw, starts right and fades right which winds up being sometimes 30+ yards right of my intended target. All I was inquiring about is simply what heads  people have noticed that don’t seem to set up looking closed yet seem to turn over easier. 

[Howard_Jones]

7 hours ago, jasonTeI3 said:

I hear what you were saying and I appreciate your answer. I’ve been reading post of yours for years on this site and know your knowledge on these topics. I guess maybe I should have worded this differently. I don’t fight a slice what I fight is a miss that instead of starting down the right side and having a slight draw, starts right and fades right which winds up being sometimes 30+ yards right of my intended target. All I was inquiring about is simply what heads  people have noticed that don’t seem to set up looking closed yet seem to turn over easier. 

One question.

When you set up your stance, are your hands in front of, in line with, or behind the ball?
If they are in front or in line, that might be the reason for why you cant close it up in time.
I say it because its one of the most common issues i see on my local range (100 yards from my flat)

[jasonTeI3]

6 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

One question.

When you set up your stance, are your hands in front of, in line with, or behind the ball?
If they are in front or in line, that might be the reason for why you cant close it up in time.
I say it because its one of the most common issues i see on my local range (100 yards from my flat)

My hands are definitely behind the ball. 

[Howard_Jones]

21 minutes ago, jasonTeI3 said:

My hands are definitely behind the ball. 

Then it sound like you address the ball with a open face angle, not square.

Think of a old fashion analog clock.
Its got 60 minutes instead of 360 degrees, like a protractor has.
360/60 = 1 minute on the clock is 6 degrees.

What im trying to say is, most of us is not able to judge face angle correct when we set up with our hands behind the ball (like we should), so it has to be "very closed" or "very open" before we are able to see what direction it actually have.

Try to rotate the club against closed "as much as your eyes can handle", grip the club, and try again. I dont know your impact datas, (how much open vs path) you have now, but it only take 1 closed to path to make a draw....2 open will cause a strong fade...the difference is "half a minute" on the clock.

So, try what i suggest, ground the club, and rotate it against closed as much as you can handle to look down at, and see how that works.
 

[speedeuphoria]

I was thinking focus on ball position and maybe move back in stance a hair