Diggers, how to hit up on driver.

[Asics10]

I'm a digger and it works great for 12 clubs. I have an inside out path which I can really compress irons, but with driver doesn't work so great. Changing setup with more tilt only gets me swinging more right and stalling. Any suggestions on how you diggers get some up with driver. 

[RayPlan]

What exactly do you mean by "digger"? Are you taking extremely deep divots, or what?

 

 

Edited July 29 by RayPlan

[MidwestHacker]

Tee up your ball normally, then put a ball on the ground one ball in front of your teed up ball. Let your body figure out how to hit the teed ball without hitting the ball on the ground. 

[wasko]

What worked for me was a drill where you take your setup to the ball normally then set the driver head back by your right foot. Make a swing from there. Got me from 1 down to 2 up. Feels like a much earlier release.

[sundaypins]

8 hours ago, Asics10 said:

Any suggestions on how you diggers get some up with driver. 

  

Try 4" tees using an old wood block driver you can easily find for a couple bucks.  

[GoGoErky]

8 hours ago, Asics10 said:

I'm a digger and it works great for 12 clubs. I have an inside out path which I can really compress irons, but with driver doesn't work so great. Changing setup with more tilt only gets me swinging more right and stalling. Any suggestions on how you diggers get some up with driver. 

I would say don’t try to hit up on driver but rather try to be neutral. 0-3° is all that’s really needed. Trying to hit up leads to many issues for golfers which include dropping the trail shoulder as a shallowing move, too much inside to out path.

 

[ChaosTheory]

12 minutes ago, GoGoErky said:

0-3° is all that’s really needed.

0 to -3?  Or +3?

[rsballer10]

9 hours ago, Asics10 said:

I'm a digger and it works great for 12 clubs. I have an inside out path which I can really compress irons, but with driver doesn't work so great. Changing setup with more tilt only gets me swinging more right and stalling. Any suggestions on how you diggers get some up with driver. 

do you have actual #'s on a launch monitor? or a swing video? Not saying you aren't a digger, but sometimes people make assumptions based on their divots. That's not always a reliable indicator.

[rsballer10]

14 minutes ago, ChaosTheory said:

0 to -3?  Or +3?

+3, the positive is implied. 

[GoGoErky]

28 minutes ago, ChaosTheory said:

0 to -3?  Or +3?

Considering he’s talking about hitting up it’s a +3

[ScooterMcTavish]

I tended to hit down with my driver - not taking divots, but hitting with a 0 to -3º AoA.  Was absolutely killing me.

 

100% of my fix came from setup.  A few things I did:

- Consistent ball position in middle of left foot

- Ensure your left shoulder is closed/pointing at the target

- Give yourself some spine tilt at address

- Move your right foot slightly back to give you room to get inside

- Once set up, pick an aim point for your club that is a couple of inches behind the ball

- Ensure you are not sliding your head forward during the swing.  You can help this by deliberately feeling the weight shift to your right foot, and holding it until you have to shift.

 

All of the above should help you keep a good path, and swing up at the ball.  Teeing it a little higher also encourages this, though I moved my tee position back down once I had the swing dialed. 

Edited July 29 by ScooterMcTavish

[rsballer10]

27 minutes ago, GoGoErky said:

I would say don’t try to hit up on driver but rather try to be neutral. 0-3° is all that’s really needed. Trying to hit up leads to many issues for golfers which include dropping the trail shoulder as a shallowing move, too much inside to out path.

 

Devil is in the details as always. I've battled steepness and you are correct, trying to hit up doesn't work. As a matter of fact, it's terrible. Most people, including me do exactly as you describe. It WILL shallow the swing, but also create massive pushes and hooks. The correct solution (for me) was getting pressure to my lead foot earlier. Instead of leaning back/trail shoulder down, moving the lower center forward. Both are shallowing moves, but one is more repeatable than the other.

 

[GoGoErky]

38 minutes ago, rsballer10 said:

Devil is in the details as always. I've battled steepness and you are correct, trying to hit up doesn't work. As a matter of fact, it's terrible. Most people, including me do exactly as you describe. It WILL shallow the swing, but also create massive pushes and hooks. The correct solution (for me) was getting pressure to my lead foot earlier. Instead of leaning back/trail shoulder down, moving the lower center forward. Both are shallowing moves, but one is more repeatable than the other.

 

Yep. That was always a battle I had. 

[airjammer]

10 hours ago, Asics10 said:

I'm a digger and it works great for 12 clubs. I have an inside out path which I can really compress irons, but with driver doesn't work so great. Changing setup with more tilt only gets me swinging more right and stalling. Any suggestions on how you diggers get some up with driver. 

I got to agree with gogoerky. As a digger as well, unless you are trying to go pro and something like that, I’m just happy with the 12 other clubs and don’t worry about being down on the driver. Most pros are closer to being down than they are up. 
 

If you follow TPI, they believe that driver is a speciality shoot and you need special mechanics just for that one club. If you want to tackle this it’s certainly doable but imo for most amateurs, it’s easy to start to blend techniques and then nothing is working well. 
 

I recommend just get fitted for a driver ghat maximizes what you already do. 

Edited July 29 by airjammer

[slytown]

If your attack is down, you can always just use more loft.

 

The other option is to use set up to hit up. Play the ball more forward in your stance, make sure you start with weight on your trail side, and just swing. If you still hit down on the ball, something else is going wrong. My guess is you don't get enough depth in the backswing and swing OTT. Folks that swing OTT hit down on the ball. If you have an in to out path on Trackman, you probably have a correction where you drop the club on the inside and early extend.

[ChaosTheory]

1 hour ago, GoGoErky said:

Considering he’s talking about hitting up it’s a +3

 

Just wanted to be sure.  In the previous sentence you said don't try to hit up, so it was a bit gray for me.  Thanks for clarifying. 

[ScooterMcTavish]

6 hours ago, ScooterMcTavish said:

I tended to hit down with my driver - not taking divots, but hitting with a 0 to -3º AoA.  Was absolutely killing me.

 

100% of my fix came from setup.  A few things I did:

- Consistent ball position in middle of left foot

- Ensure your left shoulder is closed/pointing at the target

- Give yourself some spine tilt at address

- Move your right foot slightly back to give you room to get inside

- Once set up, pick an aim point for your club that is a couple of inches behind the ball

- Ensure you are not sliding your head forward during the swing.  You can help this by deliberately feeling the weight shift to your right foot, and holding it until you have to shift.

 

All of the above should help you keep a good path, and swing up at the ball.  Teeing it a little higher also encourages this, though I moved my tee position back down once I had the swing dialed. 

 

I think it is important to clarify that a good setup does not mean you are trying to "swing up".  Having a correct setup and selected low point for your swing means you will hit the ball with a positive AoA naturally as part of a repeatable swing motion.

 

I also read the comment that the pros hit down.  They certainly do, because they need the backspin with their very high swing speeds.  For us mere mortals (like myself with a 92 MPH SS), fixing AoA is the difference between a 200-210 yd drive and a 230-240 yd drive, especially if you also adjust your driver loft for optimal launch angle. 

 

And trust me, there is no driver made that will correct too much backspin on a moderate swing speed.  I've tried.  Just had to fix the swing, unfortunately, which included getting a positive AoA.

[rsballer10]

15 minutes ago, ScooterMcTavish said:

I think it is important to clarify that a good setup does not mean you are trying to "swing up".  Having a correct setup and selected low point for your swing means you will hit the ball with a positive AoA naturally as part of a repeatable swing motion.

Agreed. I'd also add the swing mechanics have to be correct as well. A lot of people move the upper center back to get the tilt you are describing, but don't get their lower body forward enough.

 

24 minutes ago, ScooterMcTavish said:

I also read the comment that the pros hit down.  They certainly do, because they need the backspin with their very high swing speeds.  For us mere mortals (like myself with a 92 MPH SS), fixing AoA is the difference between a 200-210 yd drive and a 230-240 yd drive, especially if you also adjust your driver loft for optimal launch angle. 

Dana Dahlquist in his videos says something along the lines of "when you get over 115mph, you can hit up/down/level and it doesn't matter". So you're probably right.

 

25 minutes ago, ScooterMcTavish said:

And trust me, there is no driver made that will correct too much backspin on a moderate swing speed.  I've tried.  Just had to fix the swing, unfortunately, which included getting a positive AoA.

Agreed again. I had the other problem - steep pull draws with low launch and spin. Played a 10.5 LTDxLS lofted up to 12 degrees. Eventually fixed my swing and dropped it to 11.5, then standard 10.5. Lofting up worked for the swing I had, but it's a band aid. 

[bladehunter]

My opinion?  Worth absolutely zero.  Small headed driver teed low.  You can get 0 to +1 pretty easy by simply not taking a divot.  Your swing will also free up due to not “ trying “ to hit the damn mailbox.  At 45 I think I’ve finally just stopped trying to maximize a 460cc driver.  It’s just a horrible fit for me. 
 

several bandaids help though. Hovering it. Usually makes for up or neutral.   Setting up like Moe ( club head way behind the ball ) usually gets it on the up.  But none were ever consistent.  And it’s very hard to “ let it go “ and make any speed. Drop it down to a 340cc or so head.  Poof. Easy. Even at 44.5 inches.    On the practice tee. I hit 3 wood at a target 260 yards out. The size of a fence post.  And rarely hit a ball off that line. With a 460cc driver. It’s a chore to hit it farther  than 3 wood , AND keep it in a 30 yard pattern.  Shrink the driver. And I’m flying that same post by 30 plus and keeping it online. If I want to ramp it up.  I can go faster and faster with the smaller head. Always been this way. 

Edited July 29 by bladehunter

[NosajNeelik]

Put a headcover one clubhead length in front of the reed up ball and hit the ball and not the headcover. Or use a second tee instead of headcover. 

[ScooterMcTavish]

4 hours ago, rsballer10 said:

Agreed again. I had the other problem - steep pull draws with low launch and spin. Played a 10.5 LTDxLS lofted up to 12 degrees. Eventually fixed my swing and dropped it to 11.5, then standard 10.5. Lofting up worked for the swing I had, but it's a band aid. 

Extra loft is the best way to combat excessive sidespin.  Problem (as you highlighted) is it is a bandaid until you get the swing fixed.

[Asics10]

4 hours ago, bladehunter said:

My opinion?  Worth absolutely zero.  Small headed driver teed low.  You can get 0 to +1 pretty easy by simply not taking a divot.  Your swing will also free up due to not “ trying “ to hit the damn mailbox.  At 45 I think I’ve finally just stopped trying to maximize a 460cc driver.  It’s just a horrible fit for me. 
 

several bandaids help though. Hovering it. Usually makes for up or neutral.   Setting up like Moe ( club head way behind the ball ) usually gets it on the up.  But none were ever consistent.  And it’s very hard to “ let it go “ and make any speed. Drop it down to a 340cc or so head.  Poof. Easy. Even at 44.5 inches.    On the practice tee. I hit 3 wood at a target 260 yards out. The size of a fence post.  And rarely hit a ball off that line. With a 460cc driver. It’s a chore to hit it farther  than 3 wood , AND keep it in a 30 yard pattern.  Shrink the driver. And I’m flying that same post by 30 plus and keeping it online. If I want to ramp it up.  I can go faster and faster with the smaller head. Always been this way. 

I'm the same with the 3wood, dead on a rope with a slight divot after the ball. I two have a small yonex 380cc head lying around, maybe I'll shaft her up. 

[Asics10]

14 hours ago, GoGoErky said:

I would say don’t try to hit up on driver but rather try to be neutral. 0-3° is all that’s really needed. Trying to hit up leads to many issues for golfers which include dropping the trail shoulder as a shallowing move, too much inside to out path.

Yes, If I try to hit up  I drop the shoulder and get way under plane which make my path way in to out, the it's stall city. 

Edited July 30 by Asics10

[golferdude54]

On 7/29/2025 at 4:29 PM, Asics10 said:

I'm the same with the 3wood, dead on a rope with a slight divot after the ball. I two have a small yonex 380cc head lying around, maybe I'll shaft her up. 

The Ezone 380??? Why would you want to play any other driver if you had the best looking pear shape head of all time at address. Aside from a 460cc version of that head that retains the exact same shape but bigger.

[cdfs]

I'm struggling with the driver for years... slices, hooks, pulls, pushes, anything from 200-280yrds total... day-dependent. Some days driver only went straight and long, next day I couldn't hit a single fairway... I finally had a lesson with a pro and TrackMan to get some numbers. SS is around 102mph (which should be fine for a nearly 50y old fart), but my AoA was between -8° and -9° (with a resulting backspin of around 6000!), even though I never had any divots with the driver and the impression I actually was hitting up...

Changes we made:

- ball further forward, somewhere between heel and toe of leading foot

- slightly higher tee hight

- lead foot flared out and slightly open stance

- slight side spine tilt away from target

 

I still need to figure out the exact amounts of ball forward, spine tilt, open stance, ... and ingrain them, but in that single lesson I went to an AoA of +2°-+3° (reducing spin to around 2500). The last 20 drives with that setup had a pretty consistent total of around 270yrds and went either dead straight or hooked a little bit.

My findings so far:

- to much spine tilt will result in hooks, no spine tilt will give you slices

- the more the ball is forward in stance (towards toe), the more upwards I can hit, but it gets more difficult (at least for me)

- you have to maintain the spine tilt throughout the whole swing (which feels really awkward, like swinging extremely in-to-out)

 

I can't tell if the changes mentioned can apply to anybody (I doubt so), but at least it seems to work for me. As mentioned above, I still have to fiddle around with the parameters, but at least this gives me some promising direction what to work on. If this helps you: Great! If not: Forget about anything I just wrote ;)