Help With Grinding Tools:

[nochct1]

Bench Grinder, Angle Grinder, Dremel???

So I've done some grinding in the past, mainly on some wedges to change the bounce, but that was when I had access to a workshop. I used a bench grinder as that was what was available, and it worked fine.

Now I need to do some work again, but have to buy the right grinding tools. The main job is going to be removing bounce from my irons (X-Tour), and I'm sure in the future I'll be doing some work on wedges.

The question is, what tools should I go with? I want the finished product to be very functional and I don't care that much about polishing as they are golf clubs and get dirty anyway. I also don't want to spend a ton on this. Does a cheap bench grinder do the job? Or is an angle grinder the way to go?

Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated.

[gilljm01]

I use a dremel but I only do it to refinish clubs. I think a bench grinder would work better for you if all you are trying to do is take off some bounce.

 

Here is a few pics of the last two clubs i did

 

 

 

[Dr.Chipinski]

any chance of resurrecting this topic?  i have the same question.  going to be grinding some wedges in my garage and idk the best tool/machine to buy?

[EddieEdwards]

I go angle grinder flap wheel, smooth it out with a file, and finish it hand sanding.

[Dr.Chipinski]

1 minute ago, EddieEdwards said:

I go angle grinder flap wheel, smooth it out with a file, and finish it hand sanding.

I saw a youtube where @knudson81 used the flap disk, and looked like he did a heckuva job.  I don't have a vice.  I could get one, but I was thinking I'm less likely to screw up with a fixed machine and moving the wedge.  VS wedge in a vice and moving the angle grinder around the sole.  I see normal bench grinders in 6 & 8" wheels, and some that are more like for turning ferrels.  The Golf Works has a $600 belt sander that has good review but is out of stock until February.  and sheesh that's pricey.

 

Thinking I'm not the only guy who's looked for a good budget fixed sander or grinder! Thanks y'all!

[EddieEdwards]

I have a bench grinder, but I feel grinding wheels are bit rougher (chatter a bit) and it's more work to smooth out though.  I'm not sure a flap wheel on the bench ginder will give the control of what you remove that I want, but havent tried it.

[Dr.Chipinski]

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-bench-grinder-with-belt-sander-58871.html?utm_source=go&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=shortener

 

anyone know of something better than this?

[knudson81]

On 1/6/2024 at 3:41 PM, EddieEdwards said:

I have a bench grinder, but I feel grinding wheels are bit rougher (chatter a bit) and it's more work to smooth out though.  I'm not sure a flap wheel on the bench ginder will give the control of what you remove that I want, but havent tried it.

 

So I have messed with belt sanders, grinders, grinders with flap wheels, and have now moved on to a 6" benchtop grinding wheel with a nylon deburring wheel. The wheel I bought is below and has worked really well for me. Softer material so you don't get that hopping chatter that you get with standard grinding wheels and it removes a little less material at a time so it can be a little more forgiving. The wheel also leaves a very nice brushed finish that doesn't require much, if any, additional cleaning up.

 

https://www.amazon.com/AmaCupid-Deburring-Polishing-inch-Abrasive-Stainless/dp/B09PMXCTM5/ref=sr_1_3_pp?keywords=amacupid+deburring+wheel&qid=1704715734&sr=8-3

Edited January 8, 2024 by knudson81

[Howard_Jones]

On 1/6/2024 at 9:11 PM, Dr.Chipinski said:

any chance of resurrecting this topic?  i have the same question.  going to be grinding some wedges in my garage and idk the best tool/machine to buy?

How many wedges? 
and what are you planning to do with them? 

If its reduction of bounce, are we talking static or effective bounce?
- Static is sole angle 
- Effective is the leading edge height above ground 
(2 very different jobs), the last one is easy,(effective), static is way more demanding) 

If its only a few wedges, use a hand file, the tools might cost more than new wedges

[Dr.Chipinski]

5 hours ago, Howard_Jones said:

How many wedges? 
and what are you planning to do with them? 

If its reduction of bounce, are we talking static or effective bounce?
- Static is sole angle 
- Effective is the leading edge height above ground 
(2 very different jobs), the last one is easy,(effective), static is way more demanding) 

If its only a few wedges, use a hand file, the tools might cost more than new wedges

Just LW really.  I have a couple faves, Vokey 58T two degrees weak, and a Jaws 10S.  I also have a low bounce K, I want to remove some of the trailing edge.  I basically want a T that's wider and a little better from the sand.  K is almost .700" flange thickness, T is .585". 10S is .620 and awesome in the sand, but its a little too narrow, bounces too much on low speed soft pitches (a strength of my T grind)

 

I also have a 60V that I could whiddle on a bit

[Yacho]

+1 for the angle grinder with flap wheel.  Grinder in one hand, club in the other.  Feather away.  Finish with a sponge-type drywall sanding block and elbow grease, and then some synthetic steel wool 3m pads.

 

Done many clubs like this to change wedge grinds, add/reduce bounce, and soften leading edges.  Indistinguishable from factory-made, aside from the missing chrome.

[ShortGolfer]

Harbor Freight used to be cheap stuff but today their stuff is reasonable for what you paid.  

Should be totally adequate for modifying a few clubs as you aren't going to be running the motor for very long.

What kills cheap motors is folks trying to do commercial jobs with consumer quality tools.  They aren't designed to run that long!

 

If you are on a budget everything HF sells goes on sale if you wait long enough.

They can sell stuff for cheap because they have an efficient distribution network to cheaply truck stuff to all their stores.  And they buy in quantity from the people who make the stuff for them.

 

Edited January 10, 2024 by ShortGolfer

[EdY]

On 1/8/2024 at 12:56 PM, Dr.Chipinski said:

Just LW really.  I have a couple faves, Vokey 58T two degrees weak, and a Jaws 10S.  I also have a low bounce K, I want to remove some of the trailing edge.  I basically want a T that's wider and a little better from the sand.  K is almost .700" flange thickness, T is .585". 10S is .620 and awesome in the sand, but its a little too narrow, bounces too much on low speed soft pitches (a strength of my T grind)

 

I also have a 60V that I could whiddle on a bit

Do you also want the grinder to do other tasks? What might those be? How much space do u have?  
 

A belt grinder is a nice investment.  Belts are cheaper than wheels after u get past the initial cost. If ur handy, you’ll sharpen ur own knives, mower blades, axes, neighbors knives etc. u get my drift 

[Dr.Chipinski]

1 hour ago, EdY said:

Do you also want the grinder to do other tasks? What might those be? How much space do u have?  
 

A belt grinder is a nice investment.  Belts are cheaper than wheels after u get past the initial cost. If ur handy, you’ll sharpen ur own knives, mower blades, axes, neighbors knives etc. u get my drift 

Actually, good thought on the mower blades! Very likely. I’m a golf nut, so probably my buddies wedges if I practice and get good enough hahaha 

 

maybe a wood working project with a different sanding belt. Shutters, a bench, etc

[EdY]

If u go the belt grinder route, I found the Coote 2” x 6” x 48” to be quite inexpensive compared to most and very versatile. It has served me well for over 5 years. You will need to find a motor. 1 hp is sufficient. Bought mine used. 

[EdY]

Then u can also make cool stuff. 

[ChaosTheory]

On 1/8/2024 at 6:11 AM, knudson81 said:

 

So I have messed with belt sanders, grinders, grinders with flap wheels, and have now moved on to a 6" benchtop grinding wheel with a nylon deburring wheel. The wheel I bought is below and has worked really well for me. Softer material so you don't get that hopping chatter that you get with standard grinding wheels and it removes a little less material at a time so it can be a little more forgiving. The wheel also leaves a very nice brushed finish that doesn't require much, if any, additional cleaning up.

 

https://www.amazon.com/AmaCupid-Deburring-Polishing-inch-Abrasive-Stainless/dp/B09PMXCTM5/ref=sr_1_3_pp?keywords=amacupid+deburring+wheel&qid=1704715734&sr=8-3

That’s interesting.  I wouldn’t have expected much material removal with that.  Hmmmm.

[knudson81]

21 minutes ago, Snowman9000 said:

That’s interesting.  I wouldn’t have expected much material removal with that.  Hmmmm.

 

You are right that it doesn't remove a ton of material on each pass over it. But for a novice like myself a few extra passes helps me learn and stops me from destroying the wedge on one touch!

[EdY]

Knudsen reminded me of something. If you buy a motor to drive the belt sander, find one with rpm’s at 1740 or slower. Most less expensive ones are 3450 rpm’s. Faster the belt, the faster mistakes happen.