Using Brass Shim on .335

[MK7Golf21]

So Im using a golfworks .335- .350 brass shim on a .335 shaft. the head is a .350. My question is with one of these shims theres still a tiny bit of play, if I use two then its a tight fit but it goes all the way in and no play.

 

Should I use two shims and why am I having to use two of the .335 to .350 shims?

[BCC]

If it's a new shaft I'd use one shim with shafting beads. If it's a used shaft quite possibe that the tip is less than .335 which may be your answer. I would measure the tip and the hosel just to see. Let's say the tip is .330 and hosel is .355---2 shims or 1 .030 shim is needed. I would certainly use a collared ferrule as well either way.

[ode1]

To your question re: using 2 shims, I would say absolutely not. I've never tried it and never would, nor have I heard anyone who has. It would seem like the bond between the two shims themselves would fail and come loose, but ??.

I've used .335 to .350 brass shims and .335 to .370 brass shims several times with no problem at all. However, I've never had it where there is any play at all when using this method between brass shimmed shaft and hosel. If anything, I've had to cut off every other tine (finger) to make enough room just to dry fit the shaft in the head.

Do you have any .335 to .370 brass shims? If you do, I would suggest trying those/dry fit. If they are too thick, use the method cited above and cut off every other tine and this will do the trick. The shims I use were purchased from golfsmith, but I'm assuming they are the same or similar.

[Awalkspoiled]

The Golfsmith shim http://www.golfsmith.com/products/9588/Golfsmith/Brass_Shaft_Shims_(PKG_Of_12) has a broader tolerance than the thinner GW one. I suggest the GS part and shafting beads