Howard_Jones

Graphite woods in general respond with only 1 CPM per 2/8" tip trim, so if we say standard tip trim is 1.0 for a5W, and this club only had 0.5 tip trim, it played 2 CPM (0.2 FCM) softer than standard (If SW value was D2-D3) 253 CPM and FCM 5.1 should have been 255 CPM and FCM 5.3 (at 1.0 tip trim) Be aware of that all shafts has a weak and a strong side, so its normal to see plus minus 3 CPM on the same shaft model, meaning a lack of 0.5 tip trim, has such a small effect, it might be covered up by how the shaft was installed.

Flex letters is only a slot/address in the actual model and weight, absolutly nothing else. The chart you post, is by that, invalid mo matter shaft model. But let me ask, was the club measured with, or without grips? What calibration was used for clmp pressure, and what clamp was used? Whats the SW value of the club`? If we absolutly want to judge a shaft by butt CPM, we should start with the FCM system, and then convert the numbers against the average for what we see on the markedplace.... at 42.75" 253 CPM = FCM 5.1 who makes it "R+ or FÌRM", and the lower end of S, but there is many X flex models softer than that., so the compare should be butt CPM on one model with SIMILAR EI profile as a option to that shaft. If we comparea "High vs Low launch" model from the same "series" we will often see that the high launch model has a stiffer stiffer butt section than its brother model sold as low launch, so its really within a very restricted frames we can use butt CPM to anything here. Flex letters is simply NOT for compare of flex between different models, ONLY against its OWN model AND weight, so not even within the same brand name is there any standards for "how strong R or S is...True Temper XP 115 R is stronger than True Temper XP 95 S...in steel shafts actual measured flex strengt most often follow weight, while its not like that with graphite shafts, since its the carbonfibers who makes the flex, and they has almost no weight at all. (Resin/Eposy is what delivers weight), but we normally see the same trends, where Grafalloy Booha X (50 grams) is way softer than Grafalloy Blue (White) 65 grams as R flex. In this case NOT due to weight at all, but that one of them is from a light/soft model series, the other from a mid weight very strong shaft model series. If you like a deep dive into that can of worms, be my guest and just follow this link...

Its your approched here thats wrong. - You plan to "reset" SW value on a club you aint even tried yet NEVER do that. To get the strait and clear answer, bring a roll of lead tape to that fitting. - add 6 grams to the head, place your hands 0.5" lower on the grip than you normally doo... it will probably feel "heavy", NOT soft, but if it does feel softer than your liking, (and head wgt is just fine for you), then tip tyrim of 0.5 will not make it right, it will take more, since shaft respons is progressove (When we tip trim say 1.0", the last halfs effect for feel is about 2x the first half...) On the paper, to keep the shafts profile and flex, we can say "Tip trim 1/8" for each 2.5 grams addeed, so 6 grams is right above 2/8" only, and will NOT stiffen up a "soft feel", its like a hair dresser adjustment that mostly makes a visible difference on the paper, not as feel or playability real life. So DONT shoot for SW values, figure out what HEAD wgt you play the best with at 45" and go from there, and never mind what SW values that is. Having that said, for the WORK SHOP, 1 SWP at 45" is only 1.6 grams, and 0.5" shorter = 3 SWP. Then we have 3 SWP x 1.6 grams = 4.8 grams at the heads COG, but sice sole weights is longer away from our hands than COG, the effect of the added weighjt is larger, READ we DONT reset the OG SW value by adding 6 grams, we make it about 1 SWP higher than OG.... Be open minded to make it correct. start by lowering your hands on than 45.50" club by 0.5 and try it off as is. you might not feel the need for added weight at all, but if you bring that lead tape, you can tune in a higher head weight, simply by adding a piece you dont know the weight of, add untill its too much, dial back to the area where it feels and works the best. DONE. (all this test should be done without a clue about how many grams you add, or what SW value that is, we navigate ONLY by our "Human scale" with values like "Too little or too much", untill you find whats the best for you. Any other approach will NOT give you the club you hoped for, no matter price tag. Follow impact trends on the face to make sure play lenght and head wgt is good. When that is found, its time to try shaft options, using that PL and head wgt. You may not read this before that fitting session, but you should, so you know how it should be done. The risk is large that the "fitting" you get is anything but fitting of specs.

When we use a loft and lie machine, we dont get true specs, but its not needed either, since we work with relative values. As example, if we bend that lie to 63 using the same machine, 64 was not a true value, neither is 63, but we did change it 1.0 against flat, and thats what its all about. Back to EXCEL... - here is a good example of illustrations ive made using the tools in Excel, its not many limitations when you know how too combine mathematical charts with photots. This is a illustration of return values we can expect depening om what impact position in the face grid we got, for a player at 100 mph. Again RELATIVE numbers, based on how drivers actualy works.(Ideal impact position is C3-D4) The charts tells how much carry (first chart) or Total (second chart) you will LOOSE if your impact is any where else than C3-D4

Most likly not, and as longb as the epoxy bound is good, no matter how whats down in the hosel looks like, "its out of play" its only the shaft above the hosel that can bend, so whats down there can NOT make the shaft to behave different.

Technically thats correct, but still, even a ream job from 0.355 to 0.370 is hard to measure without a good grame scale since its 0.32 grams ,,,,to fit a taper to a taper hosel, or a paralell to a paralell hosel would be way less and not a weight issue...

I agrea with the most, except loft, i really think its to early to judge that need. - If we use (but we should not) the numbers delivered, his average launch is actually good, except for the last club, the issue is really a impact pattern thats all over the face, and deliversgood launch on some, bad on others, and for the same reason spin values is the full scale possible with down at 200 and way above 4000.... BUTsince the player, even with this "all over the place numbers" his AOA is in general positive, so he get a better "exchange rate" from dynamic loft to launch than many others, so i really think this has to be done the right way, by finding basic specs first, then the shaft that jives the best with his swing, THEN we can take a look at his numbers when impact pattern and trends is tightened up. I did not have many players at this club speed, but as example i had 1 player with a neutral AOA and about 90 cs who got the best numbers with 13 loft, and the same week, a player at 93-94 with a AOA up aginst +4 who got the best numbers from only 7.5 of loft. I think thr OPs CS with a club that fits him will be about 86-89 and his AOA is on the report above, more than plus 2 as average, so at the moment, i think loft around 10.5 is OK to move on with, untill the rest is set right.

Here is expected head wgt (plus minus 2 grams) for standard heads #3 - 240 #4 - 247 #5 - 254 #6 - 261 #7 - 268 #8 - 275 #9 - 282 The PW will vary depening on if it has the same or 1 SWP higher than irons, but plus 3 to 5 grams or 285 to 287 is a desent estimate for most PWs. Grips? Ypou got the numbers, then the weight of the ferrules you plan to use, 1 gram of DB sided grip tape and 0.5 grams of epoxy Shafts? - Constant wgt Taper tips at the same uncut lenghts as DG needs average 2.5 grams butt cut down to standard (Hosel BBGM 1.25 and 0.25 grip cap) Shaft wgt / lenght = grams per inch (DG 130 #9 = 130/37 = 3.51 grams per inch x 2.5 = 8,8 grams weight loss = net 130-8.8= 121.2 grams net cut wgt.) <I did not bother to look up the weight for MMTs, but now you know how to do the math. If the set is standard, with standard SW value (D1-D3) you will be close to actual TW this way, but we never have full controll of grip wgt who can vary plus minus 3.5 grams vs offisial spcs as a worse case scenario.

Lets start with the basics... We can not soft step one flex to make it become a nother, thats only possible on very few shaft models. For DG it might look like we can soft step a X100 4 times and make it to be like the S flex where step pattern looks identical at 4x, weight remains the same (0.370)...but we did NOT get a S300 by going SS4, since theyr profiles is NOT identical, not even when we move everyting 2 inches. When we soft step a descending wgt shaft we move BUTT CPM average 4 CPM and measured difference in the DG 130 line up, is about 26 CPM, so its like SS5 before butt CPM becomes the same, but now we got a different step pattern and tip lenght. Constant wgt models moves more. since we change both tip length and wall thicknes but when we soft step a constant wgt shaft, we also loose weight equal to about 7.5 to 8 grams at SS4, so even if ours X100 SS4 now "looks like" a S300/S400, it will have a weight of only 122 grams and will for sure play softer. (S to X is average 13 CPM in DG constant WGT tapers, an SS4 moved it about 24 CPM, making it 9 softer than target, and thats visible on the weight loss, where we can say 1 gram is 1 CPM) So, we can hardly ever make X to become identical with is S brother shaft, so when we say SS3 on constant wgt, and SS4 on descending wgt is about 1 flex, is with a reference to butt CPM and the closest we can get, but NOT because its really a option, its only to illustrate where BUTT CPM will end up if we do it, so the player get a idea of what we are talking about (SS1 = 1/3 of flex for constant wgt models), and its a rule of thump, and NOT exactly the difference for ALL models, since they vary. We also often say 10 CPM is one flex, but thats a reference to the FCM system, where 7.0 is 10 CPM stronger than 6.0, while in the LARSX flex system, its most often a larger span form R to S and S to X than only 10 CPM, its often 13 to 26 as difference. Taper tip shaft is really "No trip trim", but advanced club makers does tip trim them. Since DG dont have a dedicated PW shaft (#9 is the shortest), its quite common to stiffen that shaft up by a tip trim of 3/8" who gives 3 CPM stronger, while a dedicated PW shaft should have been 5-6 CPM stronger. 3/8" is about the max we can tip trim a taper before we need a ream job to 0.370, and at the extreme we can tip trim most of them "2 shafts stronger" who on constant wgt becomes 1.25" tip trim, but that demands a ream job to 0.370 to get full insert. Paralell tip shafts has most often a flex slope of right above 4 CPM, so 0.5 tip trim is "1 shaft stronger"! while for constant wgt, with a steeper flex slope due to variable wall thickness (thicker as we go shorter to keep the weight), we need 5/8" tip trim to make it a full shaft stronger like it is by nature. So, we can NOT soft step a X100 to make it become "just like" S400, and we can not tip trim S400 to become like X100, but we can get butt CPM close...but that should never be target and its not a good idea.

Only a few players is able to perform good after 100 swings, so its NOT the time for a fitting session. Drivers tried, seems to be plain standard off the rack (trial and error, not fitting) so combined, numbers is as expected, all over the place where non of them can be used for anything. Exception would be the #8 iron...way to much roll out for a #8 iron, who should not be much more than 1/3 of the roll out you have. Thats really all what this numbers is telling. Your irons has a need for weaker lofts (minimum 2 weaker) to get higher launch, spin and steeper descent (minimum 45), so stopping power improves. Its hard to see where that ends, but it should give a PW carry thats about 100 yard carry, telling your Driver carry POTENTIAL is up against 200 as carry (upper half 80s club speed as average) But you need a REAL club fitting to get there, a session like this will not. If your current driver is 20 yrs old, its not much resale value in it, so read this link and try it off, you might see the numbers i estimate from that club with a few mods...Start with that, and you are better prepared for a real club fitting.

We can do the same using Excel, but its really useless since the values we got is not "true value" and will not be compatible with return datas from a loft and lie machine. Here is what we can do with Excel....Add the photo as a start, go to the "set in" menu, choose ILLUSTRATIONS > FIGURES ...choose a square frame and remove filling, and make the lines 0.75 First is to check if the head was "alligned correct", and i could see before i did it, its not, its "toe town with about 1/3 of a groove, so its slightly closed )not square face angle) By tilting the frame to 359* (1 degree off) it became square to the grooves, Now we move the same frame, and make it fit the OD of the hosel like this Excel say that frame is tilted to 297 before it fits. 360-297 = 63* But the photo must be taken with square face angle, if not the hosel angle will not be correct, so actual lie (as good we can measure using this) is somewhere around 62 since the photo we measure has about 1.0 toe down angle, making the hosel at the photo 1,0 more upright than it is. Here i have titled the photo to 359, to get allignment with the grooves. Then the "hosel frame" return 298 when it fits the hosel 360 - 298 = 62*

OK...in the end its only one valid rule here....what ever works the best, and as long as you dont run into head wgt or impact issues, playing a #5 iron to the PL of #1 driving iron...

You GOT the best answer than can be delivered, LABELS means NOTHING outside of its own model and weight, so simply stop looking for what "label options" there is, it makes no sence what so ever, you could just as well ask for color options, they dont tell much about actual flex either. To make a actual compare of shafts, we have to settle for what kind of measure standard we do it by, and no matter standard we choose, NON of them will deliver a label like "S flex or X flex", only pure numbers as CPM (cycles per minute) or deflection in millimeter with a certain load. So...we simply cant navigate by flex labels when comparing shafts, NOT EVEN within the same brand, if weight or model is another. Project X 6.0 vs Project X LZ 6.0 vs Project X LS 6.0 vs Project X IO 6.0 is 4 different flexes, but the 6.0 label is correct WITHIN its own model series, where 6.0 is average 5 CPM softer than 6.5 but 5 cpm stronger than 5.5.....NOTHING else. (10 CPM = 6.0 to 7.0)

Before you ask, please serve the definition of X flex.... - the ONLY valid one, is the one saying X i stiffer than S in THAT MODEL & WEIGHT, so if your thinking was that this labels was meant for compare between different shaft models, you are plain out wrong. As example TT XP 115 R is stronger than TT XP 95 S, and Grafalloy Blue (white) R, is way stronger than Grafalloy Booyah X flex....so this labels is ONLY valid witting the actual model AND weight, NEVER for compare to anything else than that. Your question should have been, what is the strongest shaft options below 105 grams.... - Project X graphite iron shafts used to be, would be the answer since the BLUE model was almost identicalto its steel counterpart, but i know that LA golf has a model that might be even stronger at that weight range.

Naaahhh, then i should be "a-z" for how to...this is just a short input, but i might write a compleste guide, it seems like needed, even if i dit write a post about how to blueprint a set of irons to the smallest tolerances possible. ...but that was only a "reply" too, but more detailed than the post above.

Never mind numbers of wraps, that depends on how much the tape you are using build for each layer, and you can use what ever tape... THINK LIKE THIS - Standard = 0.600 shaft butt + 1 layer obligatoric 0.010 grip tape - Mid size = 0.660 shaft butt + 1 layer obligatoric 0.010 grip tape - Jumbo = 0.720 shaft butt + 1 layer obligatoric 0.010 grip tape (0.60 core grips, if we use 0.58 Core they add 0.020) I would suggest to use RUBBER (real mid size grips), not tape when its due to arthiritis If the thinking is weight, Golf BU tape thats 0.015 for each layer (4 layers to MID), has a weight of 2 grams for 10 inch, so summary = 8 grams of tape....we dont savemuch wgt this way if that was the consern, and build up grips feels harder, since we strech the rubber thinner, insted of adding rubber thickness. So just grab a shaft, some tape and a caliper, and do the math for the tape you like to use.

its most often the grip... - Split grips is often not fully seated, so on the SW scale it adds play lenght where 1/8 = 0.75 SWP. Since 1/8" is right above 3 mm, we can say 1 mm off on PL = 0.25 SWP, 2 mm off = 0.5 SWP etc... - The split grip might have a thicker grip cap than the grips installed, again like above, 1 to 2 mm off is enough - Grip wgt on installed grips vs the split grip We say 5 grams with a BP at 4" from the butt = 1 SWP so 1 gram grip wgt becomes 0.20 SWP, 2 grams = 0.40 SWP etc.. - The blance point if grip models (split vs installed) is different. Combined?...a mess we can and should avoid SOLUTION Tune up at least one club using the blind test (too little or too much without a clue about values), When done, mesure values on that club, with and without grip, the latter so you get a dry fit target w/o grips to eliminate the grip cap/split grip error. its ALL about Play lenght vs head wgt, NOT whats going on grip side, and this is how we eliminate that. GRIPS and TOLERANCES - When the set is built, check specs BEFORE you add grips to make sure they came out right. - Now start to put your grips on the gram scale one by one, mark each with its wgt. - Now you measure Total wgt EX-grip for each iron. - Ideal for SW matched clubs is 7 grams avarege with constant wgt shafts. - Now you can use grip wgt variables to even out the total wgt slope. (Heavy grips on light clubs and opposite so total weight progression becomes as good as possible with what you got at hand.) Never mind what this clubs measure with grips on the SW scale, you have now matched HEAD and play lenght like it should, and even got TW progression as good as can be. we can NOT make it any better than that, since we can now change grips later without messing up a SW match job where clubs was matched to a "split grip", NOT vs play lenght and head wgt. TAKE NOTES from start to end of ALL specs and mods for reference, also for later grip changes.

That cant be the whole story, and many OEMs has a limit on 1.50", so that might be part of it, but at 5 feet 11, a average buildt man would fit plain standard, (im 6.0 with 34 WTF and prefer minus 0.25"), so at your height, plus 2.0" dont sound right at all, but hard to say since i never saw your stance with a #9 iron from behind. The longest irons ive seen was plus 2.25" made for a man thats 211 cm (6.92 or 6 feet 11")

Adapter = Hosel = part of the head and head wgt. The ferrule and epoxy (max 0.5 gram epoxy) is also part of head wgt. - Hybrids USED to have the same wgt (#3 and H3 as example), but now we have to check each model to make sure

What are we looking at here? - Bad club making, where, they could not get Logos up or down, or do we see a shaft thats FLO or PURE alligned?...asking for a friend

The shaft 39.00 uncut is the same as 990 mm = #3 iron shaft That shaft is made to handle a head wgt of 240 grams (plus minus 2) https://gd-asia.com.hk/products/tour-ad4 Iron heads is plus 7 grams as we go shorter, so WAS most hybrids. #3 = 240 grams = strait in, zero tip trim (use a brass shim) #4 = 247 grams = 0.5 tip trim (no need for a shim) #5 = 254 grams = 1.0 tip trim (no need for a shim) CANT BE DONE The shaft tip in this model is only 50 mm or right below 2 inches, so we will NOT be able to tip trim more than 0.5, since we need 1.25 for insert plus ferrule

Did that answer the needed questions? not even close

What shaft model is this? (brand, model, flex, Tip type) What hybrid head number and head wgt? Thats the questions before its possible to tell how to handle this.

if you follow the link i posted, you will see its made with different carbonfibers then the first generation.

Not with identical carbonfiber frame and EI profile. Diamana became just like HZRDUS, severel generations of the same brand name, with slightly different carbonfiberframe and EI profile. https://mitsubishigolf.com/products/diamana-bb Grafalloy PROLAUNCH BLUE, is still the same shaft, ONLY colors and grapiccs has changed so its still "Generation 1", and crazy 20 years after. How often do OEMS need to "upgrade" their best selling models to "a new generation"? ...not very long, and far from 20 years.