Ger21

I've been playing the 2023 Tour, but I recently bought a bunch of 2025 Tour S. Yes, they are very similar.

I don't know, they look pretty good with Dart V's in them too.

Once you go black, you can't go back. 🤣

Since the TS4 is an MB, it compares very similarly. My previous blades were Nike VR Pro's, Srixon Z965, and Bridgestone 220MB. The TS4 (I have the DBM) are very slightly firmer, mainly because they use a slightly harder steel. But they still feel great on flushed shots. Just as workable as anything else, and look great at address. I've found them to be very slightly better on thin strikes, and they are the best blade I've ever played on high toe strikes, by a good margin. I've tried a couple forged CB's over the last few years, and always ended up back in blades for the feel. The TS4's give me the feel I've always preferred, just like any other blade. But their performance surpasses everything else I've ever played. These might be the last irons I ever buy.

I ended up selling mine after 5-6 rounds. They were just a touch too small for this old guy. I couldn't find the center enough, and the feel on even slight mishits drove me away. Great irons, just not the ones for me.

Irons are not the same as woods. When you decrease loft, the bottom edge moves back, which is what increases the offset. Are the shaft lengths the same on the two clubs?

Imo, the Q Star Tour is nothing like the Tour S. It's much softer, and spins less. There's really very little difference between the Tour S and the Tour. According to the MGS Ball test, yes, the AVX seems close, but a little softer, and a little less spin.

Driver. Just dropped it for a mini.

I wrap blue tape around the shaft wear the prepping starts/stops, and scrape between the tape and the end of the shaft. No need to have your fingers near a blade. But yes, scraping is the way to go. No reason for a graphite shaft to ever see sandpaper.

You don't need to go to 1000 grit. 600grit wet on the bare metal should be fine. But you do need to remove and scratches caused be previous sanding. Typically, a primer would help to fill in some of the scratches. Since you are not using primer, i would spray two light coats, then wet sand with 800 grit, to remove any scratches or imperfections, then one final top coat. If the wet sanding does not go through the color, you can clear coat over the sanded surface.

I would wet sand with a 600grit at a minimum. If you are seeing scratches through the paint, the sandpaper you used was too course.

99% of a quality paint job is in the prep. I see scratch marks under the paint, which means you need to sand with a finer grit, and possibly fill with a primer. Also looks like some dust/debris got into the finish. Get a tack cloth and make sure everything is perfectly clean and dust free. Also, be aware that any standard rattle can paint is going to be much less durable than a factory finish

I have the TE+ 4&5 irons, and I don't think they are any easier to hit than the TS4. The only "help" the TE+ gives you is a slightly lower (~1/16") CG. They are both 1 piece forgings, and look nearly identical at address. There's a good chance I'll be swapping them out for all TS4's. I'd also disagree that you need more speed to play the TS4. You just need to get closer to the center. I've never hit the TS1, so can't compare.

I've been playing a Honma TW-X 3 iron as a utility iron for the last 3 years. You can still find them new on Ebay for <$50, and they are incredible.

TS4

I'd call myself a picker, and in to out, and I can play any sole. I've played Srixon V soles with no issues.

No. TE+ 4&5

I had a 14 way Ogio for 10 years that never had a single issue with tangle, and the dividers were still as good as new when I moved on from it. Liners in the Vessel started pulling out in 2 years.

GD used to have pic of fake IZ's on their website, but I don't see then there now. There's an old thread here about fake IZ's being sold on Ebay 5-6 years ago. But I agree, this one looks legit, just like mine.

Yeah, $500 for an 8 piece set of Maltby heads is not cheap. Sub 70 are $650 for heads only. My Maltby's are the most expensive irons I've ever purchased or built, and I've owned a lot of iron sets over the years.

I've never heard anyone use tpi when referring to a circular blade. 😉

They don't make 10 tooth table saw blades. 🤣 I was referring to table saw or miter saws when I said at least 40 teeth. Yes, I've used a bandsaw as well. I've used pretty much every saw in my woodworking shop.

As long as it's a sharp carbide blade, anything over 40 teeth will work. Just go slow. 60 teeth or more is preferable, though.

I've used all kinds of says to cut shafts, including a $4 hacksaw from Home Depot. Just put a couple wraps of blue tape where you'll be cutting. I've used a disk sander to square up the ends. My normal goto is my table saw, or miter saw.

Your title and description are at odds with one another.